Galfer it or Not

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BobCo

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I have a set of Galfer replacement lines for brakes and clutch. I have the plastic off. Now seems like the perfect time to replace original brake/clutch lines. Is it worth the trouble? Is the Yamaha 4 year replacement interval excessive? Will the OEM lines delaminate or otherwise deteriorate during the life of my FJR? Thoughts?

 
You've got the Galfer's and now that you're in this deep........ it's a bit of a job. The OEM ones will last forever, the 4 year thing is covering their butt.

 
If the hydraulics have been normally maintained, and the exteriors of the lines have not been subject to damage - chemical or environmental, they will last a long, long time. As the rayzerman said, the manufacturers are covering their butts.

I check my lines annually, and would replace them only if necessary.

But if you're bored, go for it!

 
After looking at the routing of the brake and clutch lines, I've decided that discretion is advised. What a pain the clutch line appears to be. And the rear brake line is no picnic. I think that I'll flush and change the fluid, and call it good. Thanks for the input.

 
BobCo, I have never installed them, but I have heard from the guys with ABS bikes that it is a miserable pain in the ass and the yield is minimal. From what I've heard, you are making a smart choice.

 
I have used SS brake lines on may bikes. There is a noticeable difference to me. Robber lines swelling under pressure is where the mushy feeling is generated. SS lines do not swell. It is also this repeated pressure swelling that breaks down the rubber lines from the inside. You will not see the deterioration. SS brake and clutch lines is one of the first mods I do do a bike. Besides shimming the needles and adjust idle mix if it is a carbed bike.

 
After looking at the routing of the brake and clutch lines, I've decided that discretion is advised. What a pain the clutch line appears to be. And the rear brake line is no picnic. I think that I'll flush and change the fluid, and call it good. Thanks for the input.
A couple or three years back I bought a stainless clutch line, which I still think is a thing to do..... but I bought it before I read about what a PITA it is. Something about a clip you can't get to in the frame, but probably should just cut the line and forget about the clip....... so, thinking I would try this first, I got a Gen I clutch slave instead, and bleed it at least once a year. So, still have the stainless line...... we'll see how the '14 is, because it's back to the Gen I slave.

 
After looking at the routing of the brake and clutch lines, I've decided that discretion is advised. What a pain the clutch line appears to be. And the rear brake line is no picnic. I think that I'll flush and change the fluid, and call it good. Thanks for the input.
A couple or three years back I bought a stainless clutch line, which I still think is a thing to do..... but I bought it before I read about what a PITA it is. Something about a clip you can't get to in the frame, but probably should just cut the line and forget about the clip....... so, thinking I would try this first, I got a Gen I clutch slave instead, and bleed it at least once a year. So, still have the stainless line...... we'll see how the '14 is, because it's back to the Gen I slave.
Gen I slave? Is it an upgrade to the Gen II slave?

 
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Gen II slave had a smaller piston, thus slightly higher effort, but less travel at the lever end...... Gen I was an easier pull, but lever travel is a touch longer. If you have short fingers, that might be an issue. Another fix was to get Pazzo levers (or knockoffs). However, with the line, we'd probably be better off with the stainless line.... one day.

 
I'll have to keep my eyes open for one. But no trouble with clutch lever effort so far.

The Galfer kit went back to Revzilla...

I've already bitten off enough to do this winter without fighting those hydraulic lines. I've replaced the ball bearings with tapered bearings in the steering head, changed fork springs and oil, flushed the brake and clutch fluid, upgraded to a Seat Concepts seat. The remainder of the list: open up the forks again to cut down the spacer tubes; wire in an FZ-1; install Tomtom mount and wiring; lube pedals, swing arm, relay arm, shaft and u joint splines, install a Penske shock, install T-Rex luggage guards, install TankSlapper film, and get fresh tires mounted. I think that's about all I want to do except a spring oil change and air filter. I'm having way too much fun to spoil it with those lines
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