Gen 1 (2004) Handlebar Vibrations

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The bar insert that's threaded needs to go in further, or stretch the grip out to cover it.
And how does one accomplish that without damaging anything? This is throttle side, by the way.

Anyone?
As I recall,(been awhile) when I installed my Throttle Meister throttle lock, I had to adjust the piece that fit in the handle bars deeper for the correct adjustment. I don't recall if the stock, threaded part inside can be pushed in or not. I had to but a separate part to fit the TM from my ZRX to the FJR (different insert) .

If you remove the bar end and peek in there. I know on my FZ6, the bar end threads don't move. I recently put new Grip Puppies on and as noted earlier, you should be able to pull them out/ stretch them a tad to cover the gap (my FZ was the same)..

 
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I did look, and I tried tapping it in further with a hammer and socket after lubing with Kroil. It won't budge.

I guess I'll try to camouflage the gap.

 
Pete,

My 2004 was very buzzy right at 4000 rpm. Retorqued motor mounts, synced throttle bodies, added heavy bar weights all to no avail.

Did the Barbarian jumper mod and increased the CO settings by 7 and the bike was transformed! I even set it back to make sure that was what did it. Seems the slightly richer mixture made all the difference. I found the instructions in the FJR Tech site. Its free and worth a try. Not difficult at all.

Good luck,Paul

 
The Barbarian mode,(The European models have already this mode) to increase or decrease the CO settings,works only at idle and at about 1500 +/- rpms.''If you increase the CO settings will help to pass from the idle circuit to the mid range more smooth''.
Also the TBS works in this range.A TBS and the Barbarian mode does nothing from about the 1500 rpms to the red zone.If you try to eliminate the vibrations with the Barbarian mode or with a TBS is a lost time.All the fjr have vibrations/buzz at this range..I rode many fjr and they have the same vibrations in that range..Handlebar risers and Grip puppies in combination with the footpeg rubbers from a 2013-2016 fjr will help a lot to absorb them..Also leave your hands more relaxed on the grips..
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''If you feel any difference in that range about 4000 rpms after a TBS or the Barbarian mode is simple a placebo effect''
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I really don't know if an unauthorized TBS could help at that range,because you will set the butterflies there..
The normal TBS and the Barbarian mode doesn't help..
 
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I did look, and I tried tapping it in further with a hammer and socket after lubing with Kroil. It won't budge.
I guess I'll try to camouflage the gap.
I've got the gap on mine and I also tried to make some rudimentary adjustments. No joy. So I left them as-is and don't even notice the gap any more.

 
I gotta plus one Uncle Hud's thread recommendation. I too came from a cruiser style bike and I gotta tell yah.....oh about 15 miles from the dealer I thought I made a HUGE mistake!! My hands were killing me!!! By the time I got to the house I couldn't believe how sore my hands were. I'm still working like the article (thread) suggests of getting your weight off your hands but for me that was the key, working on that Master Yoda position. For me coming from that relaxed sitting on your tailbone feet way out in front of yah cruiser position I couldn't help but feel like I was laying superman on the FJR with all my weight on the hands.

Anyway working on the Master Yoda was the best fix by far for me.....ymmv.....

 
I forgot to mention, I did put 1.25" risers on mine, so there was no more constant "push up", more upright for me.

More upright meant less pressure on the bars, less vib's passed thru to the rider....



 
I'm guessing that if you machine about an 1/8 " off the face of the small dia. that inserts into the bar it should be pretty flush.

 
I'm guessing that if you machine about an 1/8 " off the face of the small dia. that inserts into the bar it should be pretty flush.
I got the grip buddies pulled out to hide the gap. I am considering using a Dremel and a tiny sanding drum to clean up the bushing in the handlebar. I think that will be better than modifying the bar end.

Scott,

Where did you purchase the riser extensions? That may be a good solution for me.

 
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Reading the spec's on those, their rotating the bars 15 degrees TOWARDS the rider.

For the FJR, I never had an issue, BUT, on my FZ6, many owners changed their handle bars

for LESS angle back handle bars (FZ1 bars-straighter). That'd be the opposite of the 15 degrees.

Its my belief, that the most comfortable bar angle would be where your hands naturally fall on the bar

and not making your wrist "twist" say to turn the throttle. The area of contact between your palm and grip

would be best having the most amount of NATURAL contact area... Just my 2cts

 
I agree, you do not want to rotate the bars towards you. The bar angle on the 1st Gen was near perfect for me, the bases just needed to be raised and moved towards me a little after I put a Russell seat on it that also raised me and moved me back a little.

I used the HeliBar risers (for 1st Gen) and would recommend those highly. They raise the bars and move them towards you but retain the stock bar angles.

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I camouflaged the gap on the bar-end with the grip buddy.

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I'll try everything I have so far before I go with risers. No sense in getting them if I don't need them.

 
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I've done everything you've done in addition to the Helibar risers that were already on the bike when I bought it. Still had pain in the outside part of my throttle hand.Then I installed the MV Motorrad riser plate, which allows adjustment of the bar angle fore and aft. The angle that seemed to match the natural angle of my wrist was all the way forward, flattening the bars out a little. Still hurt after an hour or so. Then I put the Helibars on top of the MV. That took a little pressure off and helped, but not cured the issue. BTW, I have pinched nerves in my neck and the extra rise alleviated my "pain in the neck" by changing the angle of my head while riding.

One day after riding a few hours and shaking my throttle hand I decided to angle the bars toward me as far as they would go. Doesn't really match the angle of my wrist but what the heck. Voila! All day comfort. There is still a tingle in the bars at 4500 rpm or so but it doesn't bother me any more. If I want to make the Blue Bomber run smoother, I just take the KTM 950 for a ride right before mounting the FJR.
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I want to thank everyone again for their feedback. I'm sure I'll get it sorted out eventually. I've noticed numbness in my left hand while driving too. I think I need to lose the big biker's wallet that I keep my checkbook in too, for starters, and perhaps see my chiropractor as well. But how can I go wrong here with everyone's help?

You're a good bunch of people, I'm glad I found this forum!

 
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