Gen 1 (2004) Handlebar Vibrations

[Fred W]

Good point about the wallet. I normally carry my wallet in my right rear pocket of pants. When on the bike I carry it in the front right cargo pocket (on the thigh). Before adopting the change, just that normal thickness wallet was a pain in the ass, literally.

 

[HyperPete]

Someone suggested footrest pads from a 2013/2014. Is this the correct part number?

4BP-27413-00-00 COVER,FOOTREST

 

[mcatrophy]

... I've noticed numbness in my left hand while driving too. ...

That does suggest either there is something restricting blood flow when your arm is in the ride/drive position, or, much more likely, you are gripping too hard.
Not trying to teach you how to ride, but ...

On the bike your arm and hand should be relaxed enough so that you can easily and loosely waggle you elbows sideways, zero body-weight through your arms. You should be able to open one hand with no change in steering input from the other.

Practice riding with just the tips of thumb and middle finger touching round the grips, the only weight on them should be just the weight of your arms. ("Grip" is probably the wrong word, "hand-rest" would be a bit better.) Keep the arms totally relaxed, just dangling from shoulders and hands.

Steering should be by gentle pushing or pulling. If you prefer pushing, use only the appropriate hand to push, don't pull or give any resistance with the other. (This for normal, open road riding; in traffic or getting on it in the twisties, you may need a stronger input.)

But, don't forget to brace when you brake .

 

[HyperPete]

Mcatrophy,

I was told to pretend I am cradling an egg in my hands. I consciously relax whenever I find I am gripping to hard. I wish it were that easy!

 

[mcatrophy]

Mcatrophy,
I was told to pretend I am cradling an egg in my hands. I consciously relax whenever I find I am gripping too hard. I wish it were that easy!

If you were really carrying eggs, you would probably be keeping your arms stiff. You'll just have to learn to keep them loose. It will be worth it in the end, you'll arrive at your destination with arms that can hoist as many beverages as you wish without any aches or pains .
Before I learnt to relax my arms, after a few hours, although I didn't get numb hands, I did find my arms were tired enough that carrying my luggage was noticeably uncomfortable. Also, after changing my style, I found my steering reaction time improved, particularly when dealing with the unexpected.

Persevere to make it habitual .

 

[Donal]

Mcatrophy,
I was told to pretend I am cradling an egg in my hands. I consciously relax whenever I find I am gripping to hard. I wish it were that easy!

This is something we have all had to 'grapple' with...............

 

[Mihalis fjr]

Yes HyperPete,this is the part Number.

4BP-27413-00-00

 

[HyperPete]

Mcatrophy,
I was told to pretend I am cradling an egg in my hands. I consciously relax whenever I find I am gripping too hard. I wish it were that easy!

If you were really carrying eggs, you would probably be keeping your arms stiff. You'll just have to learn to keep them loose. It will be worth it in the end, you'll arrive at your destination with arms that can hoist as many beverages as you wish without any aches or pains

.
Before I learnt to relax my arms, after a few hours, although I didn't get numb hands, I did find my arms were tired enough that carrying my luggage was noticeably uncomfortable. Also, after changing my style, I found my steering reaction time improved, particularly when dealing with the unexpected.

Persevere to make it habitual

.

I would say that it's habitual after almost 40 years of riding! I believe angle may be part of the problem, but I'm going to give the farkles and adjustments already done and ready to do some time before I spend between $100 and $250 for risers, depending upon which I buy. (I should have grabbed the 1st Gen Helis when they were in the for sale section for $65.00!!)

Just did rear brakes and the 2nd Gen shock so I can get it inspected now.

 

[HyperPete]

I rode to work today. No numbness during the 45 minute ride. The bar-ends obviously help!

 

[HyperPete]

Today I replaced the spark plugs and did my 1st throttle body synch. The plugs looked like new, but I replaced them anyway. Now I KNOW when they were replaced.

The throttle bodies were a little out of synch.

Before:

After:

Actually, I tweaked it a little more after this photo because when I re-opened the air vents 1 turn CCW it got even further out. So I tweaked it again, and got it even closer. The roads are wet right now, I'll give it a test run tomorrow.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Wow, they were out a bunch.

When you do them again, check and re-adjust at a steady 4k RPM. You'll likely find one out a bit.

Bring that one back into line and you can get a happy medium at idle and 4k. That will help

with vibs, especially in the lower RPM's.

I put a large fan in front of my radiator (FZ6) and fine tune using the same machine as yours.

I currently have them within 3mm's of each other where spec's allow 10mm's.

At much more than where I am now, I'll get a vib thru the right side of the seat

(extremely annoying) and I know its due..

 

[HyperPete]

After I went through the whole process including the 4K setting, they were pretty close from idle to 4k.

The only thing I didn't do was adjust the idle. I wasn't certain if that was the nut on the throttle cable, and it's around 1,000 RPM, so I figured it's close enough.

 

[Tiger_993]

Yeah, those were way out. They look just like mine did the first time I sync'd them. Previous owner had never done it in 23k miles. You should definitely notice an improvement in engine smoothness. Mine was night and day. I think you would like idle better around 1,100.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

After I went through the whole process including the 4K setting, they were pretty close from idle to 4k.
The only thing I didn't do was adjust the idle. I wasn't certain if that was the nut on the throttle cable, and it's around 1,000 RPM, so I figured it's close enough.

As I re-call the adjuster for the idle is on the left side, kind of a star shaped screw (phillips head).

IMO, I'd probably leave it at 1,000, a little less first gear clunk and a tad more engine braking.

That cable adjustment is for the actual play in the throttle. I like to have mine as tight as possible W/O

it binding and raising the idle when the steering is at full lock( both sides). Just shy of that..

 

[HyperPete]

After I went through the whole process including the 4K setting, they were pretty close from idle to 4k.
The only thing I didn't do was adjust the idle. I wasn't certain if that was the nut on the throttle cable, and it's around 1,000 RPM, so I figured it's close enough.

As I re-call the adjuster for the idle is on the left side, kind of a star shaped screw (phillips head).

IMO, I'd probably leave it at 1,000, a little less first gear clunk and a tad more engine braking.

That cable adjustment is for the actual play in the throttle. I like to have mine as tight as possible W/O

it binding and raising the idle when the steering is at full lock( both sides). Just shy of that..

Thanks, if it's too low I will try to adjust it now that I know what to look for.

 

[HyperPete]

The rain stopped and I took it for a test ride. I don't notice much (any) difference at cruising speed, but boy is it ever smoother down low. That's to be expected. I wonder if there might be any improvement in fuel economy. Time will tell!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Depending on where you ride in the RPM range, especially low, there should/ could be some improvment.

Now that all cylinders are pulling equally.. As noted earlier, once you past 4-5K, the TB's are open

and it won't make much if any difference..

 

[Fred W]

The idle adjuster on a 1st and 2nd Gen FJR are both on the right side, up under the rear most corner of the gas tank.

On a 1st Gen the knob (with Philips head in the middle) is attached to a cable that goes to the throttle stop screw on the throttle body assembly. So, when you adjust that screw what you are doing is ever so slightly opening the throttle butterflies. On a 2nd Gen bike, the adjuster cable goes to a separate, mechanically adjustable, bypass air valve assembly. And 3rd Gens are different still as the bypass air valve is electrical and controlled by the ECU.

Question for HyperPete: In your initial sync adjustments, were those being made by adjusting the throttle plate linkages with the bypass air screws closed (per the RDCUA TBS procedure) or were they done via the air screws and not touching the linkage adjusters?

I have been able to get the balance much closer than that, essentially dead nuts even, using the RDCUA TBS procedure, before even opening the air screws, and then just open all four air screws the same amount (to introduce enough air so that the idle adjust is near mid range at 1100 rpm, and rebalance with the air screws.

 

[HyperPete]

Question for HyperPete: In your initial sync adjustments, were those being made by adjusting the throttle plate linkages with the bypass air screws closed (per the RDCUA TBS procedure) or were they done via the air screws and not touching the linkage adjusters?
I have been able to get the balance much closer than that, essentially dead nuts even, using the RDCUA TBS procedure, before even opening the air screws, and then just open all four air screws the same amount (to introduce enough air so that the idle adjust is near mid range at 1100 rpm, and re-balance with the air screws.

Yes, I followed the RDCUA TBS procedure, but only opened the air screws 1 turn each. I did not realize that I was supposed to balance the cylinders using the air screws at the end. Guess I'll do it again soon - I had no idea it was such an easy procedure!

 

[HyperPete]

Went to the doc about my numb fingers. Because all of my fingers EXCEPT for my pinky finger go numb, he thinks it's Carpel Tunnel. Ugh.

I guess I am going to live with it.