Gen II clutch slave conversion to GEN I *feedback requested*

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Dr. Jekyll

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I own a 2007 Feejer and quite frankly am not a fan of the extremely tight / firm / hard clutch pull that's required. I've heard of others simply switching to the GEN I slave but have also heard that it affects the lever position etc. For those of you who have actually done this conversion could you provide any relevant feedback please? How much easier was the clutch pull? Was it as simple as changing the slave? A search on this subject yielded part # 5JW-16381-00-00 known as Push Lever Comp. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated, thanks!

 
I did the swap shortly after getting my bike in '06.

It did lighten the lever effort.

I'm a two finger clutch guy and it put take-up/release point

right where I like it after I moved the lever adjuster.

It worked for me and I would recommend it in your case.

 
I to would certainly recommend the change. After being stuck in a bad traffic jam on the way to work recently I decided something had to be done. My left forearm pretty much had it by the time I got to work. Decided to get it replaced, it did change the clutch engagement point slightly ( a little closer to the bar). Clutch pull is MUCH lighter though, a big improvement.

 
I'm planning to swap mine out soon too, and install a stainless clutch line. I have the Pazzo levers, so hopefully I'll have enough adjustment to accomodate the new trigger point.

 
I'm planning to swap mine out soon too, and install a stainless clutch line. I have the Pazzo levers, so hopefully I'll have enough adjustment to accomodate the new trigger point.
I switched and the Pazzo levers made release point perfect for me, better than the stock levers

 
I'm planning to swap mine out soon too, and install a stainless clutch line. I have the Pazzo levers, so hopefully I'll have enough adjustment to accomodate the new trigger point.
I switched and the Pazzo levers made release point perfect for me, better than the stock levers
Most excellent news, thanks!!

 
I'm planning to swap mine out soon too, and install a stainless clutch line. I have the Pazzo levers, so hopefully I'll have enough adjustment to accomodate the new trigger point.
I switched and the Pazzo levers made release point perfect for me, better than the stock levers
Most excellent news, thanks!!
Marcus and Ray, Here is a much better 'fix' for you guys: Just jack up the handlebars 6" and install a SUPERIOR Gen 1 under the old bars, then take your Gen 2 to the dump. You're Welcome, always glad to help out! Thank Goodness, it is Friday!!! jes' sayin'

 
I'm planning to swap mine out soon too, and install a stainless clutch line. I have the Pazzo levers, so hopefully I'll have enough adjustment to accomodate the new trigger point.
I switched and the Pazzo levers made release point perfect for me, better than the stock levers
Most excellent news, thanks!!
Marcus and Ray, Here is a much better 'fix' for you guys: Just jack up the handlebars 6" and install a SUPERIOR Gen 1 under the old bars, then take your Gen 2 to the dump. You're Welcome, always glad to help out! Thank Goodness, it is Friday!!! jes' sayin'
Thanks for the advice Don.

After they do the switcheroo, then they'll have to swap out the "ticker" head, broken sub frame, sell half there heated gear, and buy ice bags for there pants. :yahoo:

They better get busy. :lol:

TGIF

Art

 
I did the swap shortly after getting my bike in '06.

It did lighten the lever effort.

I'm a two finger clutch guy and it put take-up/release point

right where I like it after I moved the lever adjuster.

It worked for me and I would recommend it in your case.
What he said plus I have the pazzos.

 
I'm planning to swap mine out soon too, and install a stainless clutch line. I have the Pazzo levers, so hopefully I'll have enough adjustment to accomodate the new trigger point.
I switched and the Pazzo levers made release point perfect for me, better than the stock levers
Most excellent news, thanks!!
Marcus and Ray, Here is a much better 'fix' for you guys: Just jack up the handlebars 6" and install a SUPERIOR Gen 1 under the old bars, then take your Gen 2 to the dump. You're Welcome, always glad to help out! Thank Goodness, it is Friday!!! jes' sayin'
Don, if we did that we won't have to bleed the clutch right??

 
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I'm planning to swap mine out soon too, and install a stainless clutch line. I have the Pazzo levers, so hopefully I'll have enough adjustment to accomodate the new trigger point.
I switched and the Pazzo levers made release point perfect for me, better than the stock levers
Most excellent news, thanks!!
Marcus and Ray, Here is a much better 'fix' for you guys: Just jack up the handlebars 6" and install a SUPERIOR Gen 1 under the old bars, then take your Gen 2 to the dump. You're Welcome, always glad to help out! Thank Goodness, it is Friday!!! jes' sayin'
Thanks for the advice Don.

After they do the switcheroo, then they'll have to swap out the "ticker" head, broken sub frame, sell half there heated gear, and buy ice bags for there pants. :yahoo:

They better get busy. :lol:

TGIF

Art
Yeah, thanks Don.... don't think so, EH!!!!!!

 
The first time you get caught up in accident traffic on the slab, and have to duck walk your way for a few miles... you'll be happy you made the change.

Folks with big hands that can use the stock levers in settings 1-3 may not require the change. But if your hands fit 4-5 the Gen-I slave is definitely for you.

 
Thanks for all the feedback. I ordered the part and will do the install as soon as it arrives with my other farkles. Just narrowing down my list. I appreciate all the tips and tricks, without the forum I would have never thought to change the slave. Just to be clear, this part is near the actual clutch on the underside of the bike and doesn't require the clutch fluid to be bled right? Should take about 45 mins? I hear this and the unwinding of the throttle return spring will change the bike into a completely different machine. I plan on doing Ashes suspension setting too as soon as I can find a tool to adjust that nut at the top of the forks (the one to show just one line).

 
I guess Gen I's are good for something. Just swapped out my slave with a used 2003 slave from eBay . The difference is quite noticeable...in a positive way. Thanks Marcus for finding this used part for me.

 
How come I can't find the clutch slave in a parts diagram. Is it called something else, or am I looking in the wrong place? I've searched under Transmission and clutch and Control and Brake...Nothing...

 
1329929268[/url]' post='938119']How come I can't find the clutch slave in a parts diagram. Is it called something else, or am I looking in the wrong place? I've searched under Transmission and clutch and Control and Brake...Nothing...
In my 2009 manual, I see it in the clutch section 5-71 called "clutch release cylinder" and "clutch release cylinder piston".

 
How come I can't find the clutch slave in a parts diagram. Is it called something else, or am I looking in the wrong place? I've searched under Transmission and clutch and Control and Brake...Nothing...
AFAIK it's item 29 on this parts fiche They call it a "Push Lever Comp." (whatever the f*ck that is) :rolleyes:

Don

 
How come I can't find the clutch slave in a parts diagram. Is it called something else, or am I looking in the wrong place? I've searched under Transmission and clutch and Control and Brake...Nothing...
AFAIK it's item 29 on this parts fiche They call it a "Push Lever Comp." (whatever the f*ck that is) :rolleyes:

Don
Ok...I looked right at that and wondered if that was it, but by the name I wasn't sure. Maybe I'll try this. Just for the grins of it. Haha...

 
I own a 2007 Feejer and quite frankly am not a fan of the extremely tight / firm / hard clutch pull that's required. I've heard of others simply switching to the GEN I slave but have also heard that it affects the lever position etc. For those of you who have actually done this conversion could you provide any relevant feedback please? How much easier was the clutch pull? Was it as simple as changing the slave? A search on this subject yielded part # 5JW-16381-00-00 known as Push Lever Comp. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated, thanks!
Apparently I'm an idiot. I shoulda paid closer attention. Dork.

 
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