Gen III Mirror & Broken Sub-Frame

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never use the fold arrangement so I removed the Bellville washers, replaced them with a stack of flat washers- removed the metal detent plate...now I can snug the mirrors down in a further out position which gives a better look behind and gets rid of the elbows. If the nuts are tightened just the right amount the mirrors stay put but will still fold back on impact..

 
never use the fold arrangement so I removed the Bellville washers, replaced them with a stack of flat washers- removed the metal detent plate...now I can snug the mirrors down in a further out position which gives a better look behind and gets rid of the elbows. If the nuts are tightened just the right amount the mirrors stay put but will still fold back on impact..
I may be wrong, but it sounds like this arrangement may still result in a cracked sub-frame if the bike fell on the mirror.

 
That aluminum casting looks quite cheap, but, maybe done by Yamaha on purpose to be the sacrificial. I think you guys just discovered it before it has become more well known. So as another mentioned here, you may not want to make this stringer part any stronger.
I never knew my FJR had a crumple zone...
punk.gif
I'll have to borrow Iris's pics the next time my buddy's going on about the airbag on his Hondapotamus!

 
There are three stainless steel balls that fit into 3 corresponding dimples in the mirror base. Those are there to hold the mirror from just folding in under the considerable air pressure that would be exerted on the large mirror heads at 150 mph. The belleville spring washers hold the balls into the detents. When you do fold the mirrors back (or forward) you are compressing those spring washers enough to pop the balls up and out out of their detents.
And when you lose the balls just get some bb's. Please DAMHIK.

 
Jim and I were intending to do this work ourselves and order the parts necessary. I have contacted my insurance agent because it's alot more money and work than just a a simple mirror replacement.

So I have contacted local dealers to give me an idea on how long a job like this would take them and they have all said to bring the bike in. Well, I'm just not going to do that. First of all, my bike is already apart and I am not going to put it back together just to have them take it apart again (and risk them messing something else up).

I know that the dealers have software that would estimate the time it would take to do specific jobs. I'm kinda upset because I can not get a dealer to give me an estimate on how much time it could cost to replace "Stay 1" The sub-frame. They simply just won't do it.

My insurance company does not care who does the work or even if the work is done or not. I just have to sign something to say it was either done or not done.

I just needed to vent about the dealers......

 
I have edited the first post to show more photos and to show what I did to mend the crack.

I did end up buying the mirror sub-frame, but I felt it was worth a try to mend it first.

Some may agree (and some may not) on how I fixed the sub-frame. I am just showing what I did.

I currently have 8000 miles on this bike. I am curious to see how this 'fix' will hold.

 
Hey, that looks pretty good, Iris. I sure would be inclined to use it with that repair and see how it holds up. I mean, it only supports the mirror and the front shroud helps do that to a certain extent.

Funny, I know that I have a tube of that Loctite Metal Magic around here somewhere.

I think it was door prize swag at one of the EOMs... am I right?

 
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Funny, I know that I have a tube of that Loctite Metal Magic around here somewhere.

I think it was door prize swag at one of the EOMs... am I right?
Yes, it was a swag door prize at one of the EOM's. It has been in our garage for quite a while and I always thought it was a cool thing.

 
That repair looks good to me. If all the resins stick properly that will be better than a mechanical fix with straps and rivets or bolts.

 

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