GEN3 battery access made easier !

[Ninja500]

Does Yamaha have a spot on their website that lists the tech bulletins? I found a few on the US site, but it didn't look too up to date. Nothing on the Canadian site or EU. How did you guys hear about it?

 

[SouthernCruizer]

finally got around to doing the mod on my 2013 access cover. No problem thanks to the great write ups and pics on the forum. Definitely worth doing next time you need to remove it for battery access.

 

[DHS1981]

If you want you can eliminate the screws altogether, using 4 "rivets" only: Remove the spring nuts for the 2 screws in question and just use a couple more of the same type of rivets in place of those screws.

I prefer using the two screws because they attach the panel a little more securely than slide in rivets are able to.

Tried getting the battery cover off my 2014 today. Took off the two screws, and the two plastic pop rivets. Then tried prying, sliding the cover off, Thought the panel should slide forward first to clear the two front tabs, but no luck. I must be missing something....

Admittedly I'm not the most handy, but I took out the screws and plastic push pin things and couldn't get the *%#@ panel off. After about 10 minutes, and worried that I was about to break something on my brand new 2014 FJR, I gave up. Is there some technique that you guys can describe? Do you slide it toward the tank and back? Help please -- I never imagined that putting on a battery tender lead and heated gear lead would require an engineering degree.

 

[CA G-Man]

If you want you can eliminate the screws altogether, using 4 "rivets" only: Remove the spring nuts for the 2 screws in question and just use a couple more of the same type of rivets in place of those screws.

I prefer using the two screws because they attach the panel a little more securely than slide in rivets are able to.

Tried getting the battery cover off my 2014 today. Took off the two screws, and the two plastic pop rivets. Then tried prying, sliding the cover off, Thought the panel should slide forward first to clear the two front tabs, but no luck. I must be missing something....

Admittedly I'm not the most handy, but I took out the screws and plastic push pin things and couldn't get the *%#@ panel off. After about 10 minutes, and worried that I was about to break something on my brand new 2014 FJR, I gave up. Is there some technique that you guys can describe? Do you slide it toward the tank and back? Help please -- I never imagined that putting on a battery tender lead and heated gear lead would require an engineering degree.

Funny… Maybe those of us who got the “pre-fix” 2013s are the lucky ones after all: we had to go in the hard way before doing the mod so we know the anatomy of the beast!

The best I can describe from memory would be as follows:

1. Make sure all necessary fasteners are removed.
2. Pull right side fairing out enough to be able to pull up on the rear part of the battery cover panel and get it free of (over) the fairing.
3. While pulling up and back (at maybe a 30 degree angle?) on the cover panel work the dash panel until you can get the “hook” part of the cover panel free. Looking at the parts fiche to see the shapes you’re working with might help a bit.

Don't be afraid to put a little strain on the plastics - you need to if you want the panel to come out and they'll take some strain.

EDIT: Imagine trying to remove a staple from a sheet of paper with your fingers. Now imagine that one side of the staple is out but the other is hanging in there and is kind of twisted/hooked in a funny way; it takes a pull and a twist to get it free. Pull at the right angle and it almost slides right out, but may take a bit of force. Now imagine your battery cover panel is the staple and the front dash panel is the paper...

Hope that helps.

 

[steve_g]

Grab the panels plasric cone with one hand and the mirror with the other hand. Pull the panel with a slight wiggle motion, it will come off.

 

[CA G-Man]

Grab the panels plasric cone with one hand and the mirror with the other hand. Pull the panel with a slight wiggle motion, it will come off.

Steve:

I think you're talking about the dash panel. I thought DHS was asking how to get the battery panel cover off (which, on the 2014 and later 2013 models - or for those of us who have done the mod discussed in this thread - doesn't require removing the dash panel). Maybe I'm wrong...

 

[DHS1981]

Yes, I'm talking about the battery panel on the 2014 A model. And thanks -- this gives me (just) enough hope to try again.

 

[DHS1981]

Also, is that forward tab -- the one near the dash panel -- the tab that some of you have modified by trimming it down? Are there any mods necessary for the 2014 to make the process easier?

 

[CA G-Man]

Us 2013 guys have modified (cut) the tabs to make ours match what you 2014 guys got from the factory. It seems to work well enough and if there are any further mods I'm not aware of them.

Don't send me the bill if you push too far, but there's probably quite a bit more flex there than you'd think.

 

[DHS1981]

Thanks -- I'll give it another go today.

 

[Jer]

I had to remove the front panel to replace my stock mirrors with F1's and while it was off decided to do the battery panel mod. Thanks to write ups, a hacksaw and @rjen's pictures it was very easy to do. I will wait until tomorrow to see if I can reinstall the panels.

 

[OP Feejer]

Wow, I'm so glad I stumbled upon this thread! I've had to get to my battery twice to attach a battery tender lead and then a coax lead for heated clothing, and it was a PITA both times. I remarked to my friend that it's just way too hard to get to the battery, and we talked about how we might be able to modify it. A big "thanks" to @rjen for posting the mod in picture form! I thought about just buying the new part, but at over $80 USD, I will get the dremel tool out instead.

 

[RichDoyle]

Since getting the mod done, I've had occasion to R/I that front panel a bunch of times for other reasons and have gotten pretty good at it. The one thing I'm finding is a fairly consistent hassle is reattaching the screws. Not the rivets, those are easy. But getting the screws properly aligned with those captive thread goodies so you can tighten them down is often a profanity-inducer.

 

[@rjen]

Wow, I'm so glad I stumbled upon this thread! I've had to get to my battery twice to attach a battery tender lead and then a coax lead for heated clothing, and it was a PITA both times. I remarked to my friend that it's just way too hard to get to the battery, and we talked about how we might be able to modify it. A big "thanks" to @rjen for posting the mod in picture form! I thought about just buying the new part, but at over $80 USD, I will get the dremel tool out instead.

You're welcome!

 

[Stevesez55]

I bought the new part and installed it today. Got the whole thing in and then discovered that you have to transfer a clip with the screw threads from the old part. I also had a bear of a time getting one of the screws to align in the hole. Over all it took about an hour which included looking for the headlight adjustment screw on the floor.

 

[RichDoyle]

I bought the new part and installed it today. Got the whole thing in and then discovered that you have to transfer a clip with the screw threads from the old part. I also had a bear of a time getting one of the screws to align in the hole. Over all it took about an hour which included looking for the headlight adjustment screw on the floor.

I ducked this by simply using one of those "rivets" in place of that forward screw. I now have only one screw involved. I'll probably replace that with a rivet when I get around to it, as pulling that clip out looks like a bit of labor. Then I won't be struggling getting this last screw properly started when I do pop the cover off.

 

[jscasteel]

Detailed modding instructions from the other FJR forum:

https://www.fjrowners.com/forums/11-fjr-parts-servicing/30802-new-part-easier-battery-fuses-access-2013-fjr1300.html

 

[jscasteel]

Us 2013 guys have modified (cut) the tabs to make ours match what you 2014 guys got from the factory. It seems to work well enough and if there are any further mods I'm not aware of them.
Don't send me the bill if you push too far, but there's probably quite a bit more flex there than you'd think.

Late model '13's, around U.S. #1200 onward, have the '14 part already fitted.

 

[DustOff]

I just bought a '13. How do I tell if I have the older or newer panel? I was watching a how-to on youtube but for a '14 and noticed he used a Phillips head screw driver where as I have allen head screws on my panel. Last 4 digits are 1035.

 

[mcatrophy]

I just bought a '13. How do I tell if I have the older or newer panel? I was watching a how-to on youtube but for a '14 and noticed he used a Phillips head screw driver where as I have allen head screws on my panel. Last 4 digits are 1035.

Allen (hex) is what Yamaha fitted, that video is misleading. There are a couple of hidden Philips (actually JIS which is a little different, you'll find the tool-kit screwdriver is a better fit than a Philips), but all exposed screws are hex.

As to which you have, try removing the battery cover only. If you can, you have the later piece. If you can't, take everything off this time, modify your panel, re-fit. Then you won't have the trouble later.