Givi rack for GenII

[Joe2Lmaker]

You are too quick for me. I tried to correct my post but you quoted the original.
I would expect the bolt to pull the rack down against the frame where the bolt screws in or a solid spacer to go in between. I wonder if the side pipes of the rack are just not bent enough.

There is still time to correct your original post. (spelling error)

The only reason the rubber pieces weren't in the photo is because they kept falling off. I'm not sure what purpose they serve, but I suspect they have more to do with channeling water or something. They don't space anything; just get squashed when the Givi rack is tightened down against the subframe.

-Joe no "l"

 

[Fred W]

Ah, OK. Thanks for explaining that Joel.

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

Ah, OK. Thanks for explaining that Joel.

No problem Fredl

:russian_roulette:

 

[mvette]

I am having this problem also with my new SR357 rack. I had to put spacers under the rear most mount to tip it foward some and under the front two mounting lugs to take up the remaining space to make things work. By doing this the front cross bar can not pull all the way down so that the rubber cushions touch. This is not right but will do for now. I tried starting all the bolts first and pulling it down gradually, but I got worried since this was pulling hard on the bike's aluminum sub frame, so I stopped before something broke. There seems to be a fitment problem whth this rack. My factory plastic grab bar fits perfectly. If the bike were screwed up that would not fit. Mine came from Twisted Throttle, but was shipped directly from Givi warehouse.

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

I am having this problem also with my new SR357 rack. I had to put spacers under the rear most mount to tip it foward some and under the front two mounting lugs to take up the remaining space to make things work. By doing this the front cross bar can not pull all the way down so that the rubber cushions touch. This is not right but will do for now. I tried starting all the bolts first and pulling it down gradually, but I got worried since this was pulling hard on the bike's aluminum sub frame, so I stopped before something broke. There seems to be a fitment problem whth this rack. My factory plastic grab bar fits perfectly. If the bike were screwed up that would not fit. Mine came from Twisted Throttle, but was shipped directly from Givi warehouse.

There are damn few things I would claim to be an expert on. I've looked for answers on this forum many more times than I have offered them.

There are two topics I am very familiar with. One of those is the rear subframe on the FJR. As someone who has designed items which attach to the FJR rear subframe, I can tell you there is a bit of variation from one GenII bike to the next. The variation seems to be even greater between model years.

That being said, I'm aware of zero GenII rear subframe failures. Out of zero failures, none have been caused by the excessive preload Givi SR357 rack.

I would not start all of the screws through the Givi rack at the same time. You may damage the threaded holes on the bike if you do this. This is what I would do:

Use anti-seize on the threads.

Snug the three rearmost screws through the rack first.

Then, press down hard on the front cross member of the Givi rack.

Thread the remaining two fasteners and snug them down.

This will give you the best alignment and cause the least damage to your threads. If you start shimming the rack, the holes will not line up as well and the screws will damage the threaded holes in the bike's rear subframe.

Before you snug down those front two fasteners, it might also be a good idea to take a photo of the gap between the front cross member of the Givi rack and the bike's subframe. Then, contact https://www.giviusa.com/Contacts/

Your message will be forwarded to Paul Collins, GIVI USA Inc, Charlotte, North Carolina

-Joe

 

[mvette]

I am having this problem also with my new SR357 rack. I had to put spacers under the rear most mount to tip it foward some and under the front two mounting lugs to take up the remaining space to make things work. By doing this the front cross bar can not pull all the way down so that the rubber cushions touch. This is not right but will do for now. I tried starting all the bolts first and pulling it down gradually, but I got worried since this was pulling hard on the bike's aluminum sub frame, so I stopped before something broke. There seems to be a fitment problem whth this rack. My factory plastic grab bar fits perfectly. If the bike were screwed up that would not fit. Mine came from Twisted Throttle, but was shipped directly from Givi warehouse.

There are damn few things I would claim to be an expert on. I've looked for answers on this forum many more times than I have offered them.

There are two topics I am very familiar with. One of those is the rear subframe on the FJR. As someone who has designed items which attach to the FJR rear subframe, I can tell you there is a bit of variation from one GenII bike to the next. The variation seems to be even greater between model years.

That being said, I'm aware of zero GenII rear subframe failures. Out of zero failures, none have been caused by the excessive preload Givi SR357 rack.

I would not start all of the screws through the Givi rack at the same time. You may damage the threaded holes on the bike if you do this. This is what I would do:

Use anti-seize on the threads.

Snug the three rearmost screws through the rack first.

Then, press down hard on the front cross member of the Givi rack.

Thread the remaining two fasteners and snug them down.

This will give you the best alignment and cause the least damage to your threads. If you start shimming the rack, the holes will not line up as well and the screws will damage the threaded holes in the bike's rear subframe.

Before you snug down those front two fasteners, it might also be a good idea to take a photo of the gap between the front cross member of the Givi rack and the bike's subframe. Then, contact https://www.giviusa.com/Contacts/

Your message will be forwarded to Paul Collins, GIVI USA Inc, Charlotte, North Carolina

-Joe

I did describe this situation to Givi using your link. I didn't see a way to attach a photo. When I shimmed my rack on install, I had no problem with thread alignment, the holes were all perfectly centered. But it does make sense that this crossmember should pull all the way down or they would not have went to the trouble of putting the support boss on the ends where that silly rubber shim goes. This still seems to me that is way too much preload tension on the sub frame when this gap is closed.

 

[TriggerT]

So the Givi design is fooked up (not to mention ass ugly), and the stock one doesn't seem to want to handle the load of an E-52 without cracking. Damned if you do, and damned if you don't.

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

I did describe this situation to Givi using your link. I didn't see a way to attach a photo.

You'll need to upload the photo to a web album and paste its URL in the 'Text of the message' box.

So the Givi design is fooked up (not to mention ass ugly), and the stock one doesn't seem to want to handle the load of an E-52 without cracking. Damned if you do, and damned if you don't.

I would not say the Givi design is the problem. Although I would agree it's not pretty. And, the stock grabrail is a just that. It's better than nothing when the passenger doesn't feel comfortable holding on the the rider.

 

[TriggerT]

Joe,

I noticed in the pictures of your bike with the TAT that you had a stock grab rail. Have you since changed it to the Givi?

 

[mvette]

So the Givi design is fooked up (not to mention ass ugly), and the stock one doesn't seem to want to handle the load of an E-52 without cracking. Damned if you do, and damned if you don't.

Yea, it seems you just can't seem to have it all without a big hassle and concessions.

 

[mvette]

Joe, What did you finally decide to do? Did you return your rack or just tighten it on down?

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

Joe,

I noticed in the pictures of your bike with the TAT that you had a stock grab rail. Have you since changed it to the Givi?

The Givi rack pre-dates the Tag-Along Tank.

I bought the Givi SR357 back in 2009 with the intention of getting an E52 or E55. After discovering the gap and starting this thread, I contacted the re-seller and Givi. Because it was the end of my riding season and I didn't want to take any chances, I returned the rack. It wasn't until after I made that decision, I discovered that the preload wasn't really a problem.

I intended to purchase another rack early in 2010, but the auxiliary tank project kept me busy until well into last years riding season. I still plan to buy another Givi rack for the FJR, but now I'm being tempted to buy a dual-sport next Spring. Playing with that will probably put all FJR projects on the back burner.

These side bags would be nice on an FJR:

But that set-up only available in Europe.

 

[TriggerT]

I have seen those on one Gen 1 FJR, but as I recall it took considerable modification to make them fit. Maybe it is easier on the Gen 2's, or they have updated how they attach. The side cases were HUGE.

 

[Joe2Lmaker]

I have seen those on one Gen 1 FJR, but as I recall it took considerable modification to make them fit. Maybe it is easier on the Gen 2's, or they have updated how they attach. The side cases were HUGE.

Do you remember who's bike you saw? If it was this one:

I know the guy who did the work.

...and no. That is not my leg, forearm or bike.

 

[TriggerT]

Well, I ti s a little hard to tell from that photo who's bike that is, but it was a guy from MN, so it could be.

 

[spike747]

I got this problem too. Way to much tension on the sub frame in my opinion. Funny thing was I never noticed this the first time I installed it a month ago. I had hand tightened all the bolts so I never noticed all the tension on the bars even as I was torquing all the bolts down. I'm going to play with shimming it tomorrow. I think some tension is OK, but mine rests 1/2" above the seat mounts when just the back 3 bolts are installed. So I have to push down hard on the rack to install the front two bolts.

 

[SkooterG]

Same freaking problem on the brand new SR357 rack I just bought for my 09 FJR. Not happy about it. Decision time: To shim with washers to just tighten that sucker down following Joel's advice and hope for the best?

 

[RaYzerman19]

Well, I'm about to make the call whether to get the Givi rack or not....... My brain says shim it until there's only a tad of tension..... does it interfere with the rear seat if you do shim it 1/2"? I've got a Russell rear seat, it's already wide for the stock grab handles, hoping the Givi rack wouldn't push up on it if shimmed....... if so, I'd make special shims for the rear (may have to be slanted slightly?).

 

[SkooterG]

Got mine installed. After playing around with it I decided to forgo the shims. In fact I would recommend NOT shimming it. From my observations, shimming the rear mounting point will make the forward two spacers not fit 'flat' on the rear subframe. IOW, the rack is designed to fit 'flat' on the spacers, and the spacers 'flat' on the subframe the way that it comes. Shimming will alter the angle between rack and subframe slightly.

So I just got all five bolts started, snugged the rear three, then slowly snugged the front two forcing the rack to the subframe. It went down fairly easily. No drama.

From Monty Python and the Holy Grail: "I am feeling much better now".

 

[Fred W]

I guess the good thing is that the tension you are applying to the rear subframe is opposite the tension that would be applied by a heavy load. Kind of like those giant trailers you see where the frame is an upward arch until they load them up.