Bill
I am not too uncomfortable with doing the work myself (once I have observed it being done) and not too worried about waiting until the next scheduled valve check. It did meet spec (just barely) and I don't tend to beat the snot out of it too often. I think (perhaps wrongly) that I would be a little more concerned if it was an exhaust valve.
I am planning to be at NERDS this year and if anyone wants to do a valve check demo (that's demonstration, not demolition) as an education tool for other participants, I would be willing to sacrifice offer my '07 as a platform for the further enlightenment of other NERDS.
Wrench first, beer later and no pinched O2 sensor wires!! (I think that one was my fault but everyone had their hands in there at one point or another)
Cheers
Ross, after having done a bunch of these, it's a piece of cake. Worst is getting that upper left rad hose/coolant tube clamp off there the first time (Yamaha pointed it the wrong way) and getting the valve cover off and back on (right end out first, in last), so when you take it off, you might want to prep it by making sure the gasket is adequately stuck on (use a bit of adhesive/RTV in a few spots and press it on). But, best way after you've checked clearances, spin the crank so the crankshaft and cam sprockets are lined up per the FSM, you'll see the little arrows, dots and perhaps paint daubs lined up level with the top edge of the cylinder head. #1 is at TDC and cams pointing away from each other. Using the other method with arrows and drilled dots on the cam caps is more unreliable, especially if you did get a tooth off, you have a lesser accurate reference point to fix it. If you're only doing intakes, marks are easily visible. Tie wrap crank sprocket, exhaust cam sprocket (if you're going to remove it, as close to TDC as holes allow which is first or second tooth fully engaged), remove intake cam caps in increments, release tensioner, roll out intake cam and lay it there. Real easy. Put it all back when you're done, engage tensioner, take the wee bit of slack out of the chain, recheck the marks, cut tie wraps, rotate crank 360 or 720, check marks, you're done. Recheck clearances. If you do exhausts, keep the tie wrap on cam sprocket, intake cam in place, roll exhaust cam out, shim change, roll it back in, check timing mark, etc. Pretty easy really, take your time, FSM timing mark method is really the best. 1-2 hrs. once the valve cover is off, includes calculating your new shims. Less if you've done it before and don't have too many beer breaks or two guys throwing you under the bus.