Griff and wheaton to BC (and CFR) and back

[FastJoyRide]

This ride report rocks Wheatie! Will they make it to CFR? Will they make it back home? When does the villain tie the hero to the train tracks! Can't wait for tomorrow's installment.

Many fond memories for me of the Chief Joseph highway. OlfArt and I hit it a few years ago on a no-traffic weekday AM, on sparkling new asphalt. It was like having a private trackday - only with gobsmack scenery!

 

[gypsy]

Ok so what happened with griff and his chill's? Did BK take care of that? Was he able to pass the bug to the dual sporters? Inquiring minds want to know!!!

Enjoying your report. It is pleasantly strange when you meet up with familiar faces on the road in unexpected spots.

Thanks for chapter 2.

gypsy

 

[Bungie]

:fan_1: :fans:

 

[griff]

Ok so what happened with griff and his chill's? Did BK take care of that? Was he able to pass the bug to the dual sporters? Inquiring minds want to know!!!gypsy

Since I haven't said squat yet, thought I would comment here. My chill's went away, but geez, I had a gazillion layers on that afternoon and was really worried for a while that I would have to lay low somewhere for a while. But all things pass and I felt better after a while. I don't know about being "tougher than nails" but meeting that dude in Wyoming at the gas station put my little chill episode in perspective. He had gone through a ton of rain, his back tire didn't fit even with the chain guard modified because it was cutting a groove in his sidewall and he was cruising the interstate at about 60 mph, about all he could comfortably do. We passed him on the interstate and he was hunched over trying to minimize wind force.

Wheatie didn't mention that it took me TWO times to realize his brake lights didn't work. Two episodes of sudden braking for creatures finally caused me to question his brake lights - as compared to his accusations that I was screwing around with my GPS or MP3 player. I guess my situational awareness needed some fine tuning there.

I did the easy work on this trip - helping to plan routes, set up the motels, figure out gas stations ahead. Wheatie is doing the hard work as far as I am concerned - the trip report. Thanks to him, because if it was up to me it wouldn't be nearly as interesting or complete.

 

[wheatonFJR]

Ok so what happened with griff and his chill's? Did BK take care of that? Was he able to pass the bug to the dual sporters? Inquiring minds want to know!!!
Enjoying your report. It is pleasantly strange when you meet up with familiar faces on the road in unexpected spots.

Thanks for chapter 2.

gypsy

Sorry about that gap...I will let griff fill you in on the chill's but he put everything that he had on...and seemed to be okay later in the day. He warmed up with all his stuff on. I think maybe he was slightly underdressed or something maybe in the early going that day. Remember...we had wildly varying temps during the trip...low 30's to mid 90s :blink: ....in any case, we were able to soldier on in high mileage mode. Wasn't so sure there at that stop...

I'm gonna help murph change a set of tires today, so I won't be on for awhile...so you guys just hold the phone. And...keep in mind that wifey is gonna be reading this when I'm done...

Oh...replying to OM's post:

No lingering aches or pains from my AR getoff...so that tells you how minor that was. Mentally though...it affected how much lean I was comfortable with...so I just rode as was comfortable for me...knowing that...I may get to the place where I was before...or I may not.

 

[TheAxeman]

Great report Mark! No brake lights?!? [SIZE=12pt]YIKES![/SIZE] :dribble:

 

[Dr. Rich]

Nice job Wheatie.... My riding buddy Old Michael took off this weekend for Oregon and didn't even tell me... It must be nice to ride with someone that is considerate.... Love your journey... Sorry I didn't make Nakusp. Rich

 

[Khunajawdge]

Good read and pics, you guys were out there!

 

[escapefjrtist]

Thanks for the ride report Mark. Great seeing you again! Take care my friend.

--G

 

[beemerdons]

Nice job Wheatie.... My riding buddy Old Michael took off this weekend for Oregon and didn't even tell me... It must be nice to ride with someone that is considerate.... Love your journey... Sorry I didn't make Nakusp. Rich

Uh, oh! Dr. Rich: You've determined and ascertained that your billfold's still with you, right? And your wallet isn't gone for a weekend in Oregon? With OM having been born in Dublin of Leinster Province, that's known as an "Irishman's Discount"!!!

 

[wheatonFJR]

Well, murph's tires are on now, so it's time to put down day 3...

Day 3 - Cooke City, MT to Stanley, ID

Though the route map below is not accurate..it is close. We headed east to cross Beartooth Pass, then north to the Interstate and west to Bozeman where we got off the Interstate and zigzagged west to Wisdom, MT, crossed the Chief Joseph Pass, then south to Stanley, ID.

Beartooth Pass...what does it say to you? I've been hearing about this pass and this road for a long time...is it going to be open? Is it going to be closed? Will we have black ice up there? It is in the lower 30's in Cooke City. Will I be able to handle it? As you might be aware, I have this "heights" thing. Getting around roads with guardrails and cliffs gives me an uneasy feeling...my pulse goes up, it is an involuntary response....that I am slowly trying to cure or mitigate through repeated exposure to what I fear. I found out I had this on a family trip back in 1969 to Colorado. I was so looking forward to seeing mountains for the first time in my life...then my parents took a road with switchbacks...that's the moment I found out. In any case, when this physical stuff happens, I do not ride as well, I grip both bars more tightly, I slow down to an abnormally slow pace.

This was all in my mind as we headed east and up from Cooke City Monday morning. It was getting colder, and the road was going higher...and higher. A fog started to roll in as the switchbacks and turns began to get more frequent and severe. My shield was fogging up and my heart was pounding inside...is that moisture on the road? Is it frozen? When will we stop climbing? Well, we stopped climbing...so this surely must be the pass right? So we stopped in the fog and took pictures by the sign...

Bikes in the clouds...

I rolled ahead aways until we got below the cloud ceiling and stopped in the middle of the road to take a couple shots...

Looking ahead...

Looking back...

As we rolled ahead out of the fog, I was astounded by what we were seeing...the sheer beauty, the expanse of air...just beyond that guardrail, so we rolled ahead heading down winding on down this steep mountain...enjoying these scenes so foreign and unfamiliar to these midwestern eyes. Aware that a mistake or a slip on some unseen frozen moisture could send me off roading...into space.

We had 600 some miles to cover in our sightseeing on this Monday. We gassed up and changed gear in Red Lodge as we were now going to be travelling at lower elevations. Griff found a nice 2-lane road heading west and north before the Interstate where you could gape over at the Beartooth Mountains. They are spectacular...so jagged and forboding with their snow capped peaks. Spectacular...jaw dropping.

So we got to interstate 90 where we headed west, a little sprinkle here and there...very cool temperatures. It got VERY blustery and the winds got harsher as we headed west. We finally stopped at an exit to get gas and I needed a coffee...now I was chilled. I put on raingear to warm me up some. It worked...I was feeling better...then we hit Bozeman...took seemingly forever to get through Bozeman to get out in the country.

After getting through Bozeman, the day perked up quite a bit...now we were out in country, enjoying the space, enjoying the pace. We came across a recent head-on collision east of Norris, we headed south at Norris, then west at Ennis...still a long way from Stanley, ID. We tried to use a county highway to save some miles...but a local in a pickup said it was pretty rough...so with the rain and all we decided not to. We stopped for lunch at a Subway in Dillon..had a good lunch...talked to a good ole boy in a cowboy hat. Left the Subway for some gas and I performed the ceremonial 0 mph dump on my bike's right side. There was a side trap that I didn't see when I backed up, and when I pulled forward the bike went hard right and I could not hold it. Rash on the bag, scratch on the mirror...oh well, that's life in the big city middle of nowhere.

Bozeman to Wisdom was ranchland surrounded by mountains...you just couldn't beat that scenery. Headed towards Wisdom, MT and the storm cells were getting harder and harder to dodge...so we didn't...they just opened up on us. Not too bad, we were dressed for it. The rain was causing standing water up on the road as we approached Wisdom...there was some construction going on with vehicles tracking clay onto the road. Sure enough, griff got me good with one clay clod right in the face shield.....thhhwwummp.

We crossed Chief Joseph Pass...so we are now in Idaho!

One of the favorite parts of the trip for me was US93 south towards Stanley. A relaxing sweeping road for miles...and miles of gorgeous changing scenery. Just a breathe in - breathe out enjoyable road.

Here's a few brief shots from US-93...

We finally got to Stanley. Wow. S-C-E-N-E-R-Y. Everybody should stay overnight in Stanley sometime. The draft of beer was good at the local establishment...even if the food wasn't so much. A tall cold draft after a long day....very nice.

Shots from along the river in Stanley...

Thus ended another long and full day of this great adventure....

Next day...Hell's Canyon?

 

[madmike2]

Nice report, Mark! Yep, Stanley is a cute little town. I assume you're riding through the Sawtooth....that's a fun ride over to 55 and North to McCall. I was privileged to ride that way with FJRay on the way back from WFO in Park City. It remains a memorable ride.

 

[Turvy]

Great ride report Wheatie! I haven't logged on to the forum in a while, this is a wonderful welcome back!

 

[wheatonFJR]

Hopefully will be able to post up a couple days today...

Tuesday...Day 4 - Stanley, ID to Lewiston, ID...The LONG way...about 460 miles

The blue highlighted section is close to what we rode that day. We actually took a NF- road for 60 miles after Hell's Canyon north and west to Enterprise, OR then north from there. This section was totally griff's idea. I had no idea what was here...the other sections I had heard about. This was a great day's ride. Thanks griff.

Woke up in Stanley to a slightly foggy morning...but no rain. We headed towards the Banks-Lowman road which I have heard about from FJRocket and griff's previous adventures during a WFO run. This road is highly recommended...'nuff said. The fog started to burn off before we got there hinting at the pleasing blue sky we were going to enjoy that day...

We then stopped at a steakhouse/saloon for breakfast in Garden Valley that griff found off the highway on his gps...nice gps. The motel didn't serve breakfast until 7am...which normally would have been fine...but when putting in the bigger days, we liked to be on the road by then. The friendly waitress served a hearty breakfast that served us well that day. I will definitely remember this place if I ever get back this way again.

We headed north on ID-55 which is another great curvy road. They did have some construction which stopped us for awhile...then the inevitable passing of the vehicles would occur after being allowed to go ahead.

Here we are stopped by the flagwoman...

What you don't get in this picture are the loud sounds of the cattle mooing being hauled to "market" in the semi-trailer behind us. There were several cattle trucks headed north that day...unfortunately I think each truck heading north was leaving several "deposits" on the road...inevitably in the curviest sections of the road...as the truck swerved to stay on the road I guess. Extremely hazardous to have been leaned over and have the tire patch hit that stuff... :blink:

I noticed that like most states...there are the touristy cities that have all the nice fancy stuff...usually next to a nice lake....McCall, ID is one of those...then there are the rest of the cities. As we headed west of McCall, the scenery changed more from greens to browns and we headed south on US-95, then headed northwest on ID-71. I loved this road as we approached the Hell's Canyon area...

As we approached the Oregon border, we were constantly lowering in elevation, getting hotter all the time. We glided along this curvy road that traced the curves of the canyon as it looked way down on the cool lake waters below. I spotted a single boat way down below silently skimming along waters smooth as glass...the boat's wake seemingly frozen in folded panels of blue behind it. An image stopped in time.

I had no idea what Hell's Canyon would be like. I liked it...curvy roads ascending and descending roads along the canyon walls over the "damned" up river reservoir. Very hot in the Canyon though...quite a contrast to the cool and green of Stanley...just a few short hours before.

At the NPS information post at the end of the Canyon road...

wheaton

griff

Hell's Canyon shots - looking south

looking north

East Canyon wall

Well, it was hotter than "heck" in Hell's Canyon...and we had many miles to go...so we turned the page and headed for an unknown...a NF road, NF-39 that would take us 60 miles over mountain to Enterprise, OR. We headed south and west on ID-86 following griff's gps. After awhile we turned right on this little goat trail looking thing and stopped. Griff was making sure...but I wanted to be sure as well...we would run out of gas on this little NF road into the wilderness if it was not the right one. So as I looked at my turn directions...as I had no Oregon map...and my atlas did not have NF- road designations on them...I grudgingly convinced myself that this is likely it...but I was never 100% sure. Griff was convinced...so I said yeah...okay. Geez...60 miles into oblivion on this little road. :huh:

As we went mile after mile...it got cooler as we climbed and climbed. We saw a pickup and some cattle on the road....then nothing....for a looong time. We finally saw some dual sporters coming from the other way....so that was a good sign... I guess. Atleast people are travelling this road.

A shot from this road...

It rained on this road and the grip was questionable as it was hard to judge if there was loose stuff as well on this pavement that had chip and seal sections...so we slowed down during the rain. As we got nearer to the mountain pass, the road got a little bit tighter and I had a huge pucker moment on a right hander as my rear slipped 5 feet 2 feet 6 inches 2inches ?? to the left. After I stopped and cleaned myself off...I ventured forward kind of bummed and in a bad mood. The last thing I need to do was crash...I just did that last October. I started questioning my ability to simply operate a motorcycle...feeling like I had lost whatever skills I had. It hung over me for the rest of the day.

Well, we got to Joseph, OR and civilization? We gassed up with that quaint Oregon custom of the OR "full service" dance...he grabs the pump from you after you are done pumping and places it in the pump, takes your cc and runs inside, runs out and you sign...very weird. Griff followed me after this for a few miles and noticed my brake pedal seemed to be sticking on. So in Enterprise, we stopped and griff asked me if I had some WD-40 "handy" I said yes, and took off my duffel and prioceeded to retrieve the WD. He laughed as he didn't think I had it stashed too handily...well, [SIZE=14pt]EXCUSE[/SIZE] [SIZE=36pt]ME!!![/SIZE]



Well, the next section of road wound through some high plains of eastern Oregon and Washington...I enjoyed this section as the late afternoon sun rays illuminated the peaceful pastoral fields waving to my right and left. Some people think beautiful scenery only happens in the mountains. I disagree...I found it in all the portions of this trip...the trick is not to do too much of the same at one time. This travelling day had everything...the mountains of Stanley, the river road on ID55 north, the flat ranchlands south of McCall, the brown/olive hills approaching Hells Canyon, the Alpine forest of the NF road, the high plains of eastern Oregon......as well as the famous Rattlesnake Grade.

The Rattlesnake Grade...what can be said about it? I had seen pictures from past WFO reports...but that didn't prepare me for what my eyes experienced. The western sun illuminating the eastern sheer walls of this canyon as you see the cuts in the wall for the road as it snakes up or down. Awe-inspiring, jaw dropping terrible beauty. Nothing else like it. I did not have a place to take a photo as the curves were tight and the drop offs immense with no space to stop. I regret many missed opportunities to photograph spectacular scenes on this trip...this is near the top of regret. My nerves were on edge as my "heights" thing tried to take over, pulse up, I tried against effort to stop gripping both bars tightly...to breathe, relax, ride....griff moved on ahead as I saw him glide down into the canyon smoothly along this fantastic road. What's this? gravel ALL over the pavement surface as I looked ahead and saw the guardrail and the nothingness beyond.

Griff will laugh as he reads this as he was just having a whale of a time on the switchbacks...he was a gentleman as he waited for me at the bottom...then we repeated as we did the whole thing again as we headed back up the canyon walls. I loved this section for it's pure beauty..in spite of my hereditary heights thing. You MUST visit this...if you have never been here before. Awesome.

Well it was getting hot as we descended down towards Lewiston...

Some shots as we approached Asotin...notice the cemetery in the background off and to the right....we are never too far from the edge...even if we "feel safe"

The sign reads "Asotin Cemetery, In God We Trust". Kind of gives a totally different flavor when it's not on a coin...

CODA:

After we arrived at the motel in Lewiston, griff met a couple that was touring two up on this bike...what is this... a Triumph Tiger?

 

[wheatonFJR]

Wednesday, Day 5 Lewiston, ID to Nakusp (how do you pronounce that), BC Roughly 625 miles...

Only picture from that day...

sorry griff...the picture I took of you was all blurry...

Now...I could bore you with alot of text from that day...

...about the mysterious rogue truck

...or the Elgin Sweeper man

...or the lightning storm

...or "you call that a border crossing?"

...or Castlegar...WOW

...or the CFR welcoming committee...

But, I will let you guys decide if you want to hear about that. It was a long day with alot of futzin with rain gear stops, so no time for photos. As it was, we just barely got there before "deer-thirty."

 

[Silver Penguin]

Great report and pix so far. Really enjoying what you've posted. Your hard work in documenting the journey is making my day at work at lot more interesting.

 

[rogdeb]

Now things are aproaching "normal" back at home, I'm getting time to read these reports.

Mark, Griff ------ GREAT report :clapping: . Very well put together. You came a long way from "not knowing what to say"

 

[canyonman]

Thanks wheaton for the trip report your timing is perfect as I plan on riding the exact same route from stanley to enterprise in 2 weeks.

 

[Murph]

As I led us west onto the Interstate we came upon a rise not 6 miles from our starting point where the whole horizon opened up with the sun at our backs and green and yellow shades of grasses with olive colors sprinkled in the gullies and flats.

Poetic. Ride report gold!

I wanted to stop...but...you just...don't...stop...6 miles from the start after talking all that time to pack and gear up. You just don't. Especially if you have 600 miles or so to go that day.

So true. It must be one of those 'magic rules' of motorcycling. Sort of like riding in the rain until you can no longer take it, donning the rain gear, then resuming your ride only to find the rain ceases 2 minutes later. :glare:

What a report! Truly epic! Thanks for taking the time to be so descriptive. :clapping:

 

[wheatonFJR]

Thanks for all the kind words everybody...nice to know the effort is appreciated.

Hopefully, I can post another day or two tonight...and maybe expound on the strange rogue truck incident or the Elgin Sweeper man...even if you don't wanna hear about it.