Grip heaters for the FJR

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double_entendre

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Sure hope this hasn't been addressed already. I've not been successful using the search engine, but what do I know? I'm an FNG. :ph34r:

I was talking with a guy at the BMW shop in Pomona, CA and he pointed out that part of the reason that the grip on the clutch side doesn't warm up is because the grip material is so much thicker--the grip ID is much smaller on that side.

It occurs to me that if that's the case, I could buy a throttle and JB weld it to the bar on the left side, buy two throttle side BMW grips and have both hands toasty warm. Anyone done this already? Any reasons not to?

Thanks!

Bob

Rancho Cucamonga, CA

 
That's an interesting observationl. I recently put grip heaters on my Goldwing, and have just the opposite problem - the throttle grip does not get as hot!

 
Due to the thicker clutch grip and the heat-sink properties of the handlebar on the clutch side (since the plastic throttle insulates the other side) this is an inherent problem with grip heaters.

Manufacturers tend to try to solve this with either a insulating pad under the clutch side, or a clutch side with more heat element to make it inherently hotter.

Due to variences in grip insulation and the bar's heat sink abilities this has a varied

results on fixing the problem.

To add to this, people normally grip the throttle tighter and do not relax on it, making that hand "hotter" on the grip anyway.

I really like the Dual-Star setup and find it it nicely balanced provided I keep a moderate grip on the throttle.

I think trying to tack on a throttle to the clutch side to mimic it's insulating effects would be dangerous and a waste of time, but it's your bike.

 
The Symtec/Dual-Star grips have different wattage heating elements on each side to compensate. I used heat-shrink tubing to wrap the clutch side to provide a little less heat sink action here. Others put a layer of tape on the bar. Others do nothing and generally don't have complaints. Mine are fairly even. Dunno about the Yamaha kit.

Adapting an extra throttle tube and buying two throttle grips (which may require buying two sets of grips if they're not sold indivdually) for a problem that may or may not be detectable sounds a little overboard to me. I'd do the simpler solution and escalate to this if it really ends up being an issue.

- Mark

 
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The Dual Stars have different wattages? Damn, I've got an uninstalled set at home, but don't recall seeing that. Crap. All that thought for nothing. I'll have to look at that when I get home tonight.

Thanks for the clue-in!

Bob

Rancho Cucamonga, CA

 
I installed the Dual Stars this past Thanksgiving w/o anything under the clutch side. It's odd, with my bare hand I can tell that the throttle side is clearly warmer, but with gloves on it seems to be pretty even. If I were to do it again, I would wrap the clutch side bar with something before putting the heating element on. That said, they work just fine!

 
I installed Dual Stars this past weekend under a set of Pro-Grip 698's.

Put one round of electrical tape under the clutch side as well.

Before installing I wired them up and did some very scientific/unscientific bench testing.

Using a fully charged battery, a 4" metal backed HVAC liquid thermometer, a Fluke meter, and the Hi/Low switch that came with the kit I measured the temperature of the elements by laying the metal back of the thermometer on them for 10 minutes.

Garage temp was 60 degrees F at the time.

Throttle:

Low 93 Degrees

Hi 118 degrees

Ohms resistance Low 19.2

Ohms resistance Hi 9.7

Clutch:

Low 100 Degrees

Hi 126 degrees

Ohms resistance Low 12.8

Ohms resistance Hi 7.5

Amperage draw for both sides activated at once was 4.15 amps on low &

4.15 Amps on high as well.

Looks like clutch runs 7-8 degrees hotter on either setting.

Don't understand however why amperge draw between lo and high is so close.

After installation I heated the grips up without the bike running and it does seem like the clutch is a bit cooler. I can feel the heat through my Kangaroo and Roadgear wateproof gloves. After 10 minutes I thought they might be warmer but my BMW friend tells me that when riding down the road he can feel a surge in heat when downshifting and revving. I will road test as soon as I can.

I trigger this system off of the extra plug on my winidshield retract connector with a relay from the battery.

This is all probably of little use to any but fun to tell.

Took two Boddington Ales and a cigar to do all this.

Happy Motoring! :agent:

 
Boostman, interesting data. But you're way ahead of me in the electrical department. What is the significance of the ohms info and why would there be such a difference between the two sides?

 
What is the significance of the ohms info and why would there be such a difference between the two sides
Ohms limits how many amps can pass through a circuit. The more ohms, the less amps. Plain arithmetic -- divide volts (14.3) by the ohms (19.2) and you get amps. In this example it results in .745 amps.

Extra credit ;) to get Watts multiply amps (.745) x voltage (14.3) and you have 10.6 watts.

14.3 volts divided by 9.7 ohms = 1.47 amps = 21 watts.

So, high temperature will be at 21 watts and low temperature will be 10.6 watts for this grip.

The reason for different resistance (ohms) at each grip is because the clutch side grip is bonded directly to bare metal which acts as a heat sink drawing away a portion of the heat so you need more watts to make up for this. The throttle side grip goes over the plactic throttle sleeve which is a thermal insulator and prevents heat from wicking away so you can get away with less power.

chimptype.jpg


 
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Leghorn:

Mr. IonBeams math is correct.

The difference between the throttle and clutch side is that the clutch side is designed to run hotter to compensate for the "wicking" action of the metal bar versus the throttle side.

When looking at the two grids you can see that the clutch has a larger grid area.

The total amperage draw of 4.15 that I experienced exceeds the calculated draw due to not factoring in resistance of the switch and jumper wires used on the test bench.

It did give me a good starting point to estimate what size fuse to run.

Happy Motoring! :agent:

 
Below 30deg (on the interstate at speed), I use the electric gloves and the grips. Above 30 all I need is winter gloves and the grips.

Above 45 deg all I need is summer riding gloves and the grips.

You can't forget the grips, they're always there ready to go, there's no wiring to run through your clothes or a cable to forget to unplug.

I've had electric gloves for 9 years, I've had dual-star grips for 2 winters. Every bike I own from now on will get heated grips.

Oh, and even if you go fancy and get the Heat-troller, the heated grips are still much cheaper.

 
If you are installing the grip heater kits, it is best to install a plastic tube on the clutch side handlebar. An easy source is in most foam grips. They generally have both grips the same size and give you a tube to "shim up" the clutch side. It really works out well if you are going to foam grips anyway! Even heat. You can't beat it!

 
Yea Yamaholic, I've been following this thread.

Does anyone know if Dual Star is providing or has available the plastic tube? A few months ago, IRRC, someone from Dual Star that I was talking to implied they were looking at this as a means of helping their customers that are having this issue.

I still need to get some more heat out of the cluch side.

Don :unsure:

 
Yea Yamaholic, I've been following this thread. 
Does anyone know if Dual Star is providing or has available the plastic tube?  A few months ago, IRRC, someone from Dual Star that I was talking to implied they were looking at this as a means of helping their customers that are having this issue.

I still need to get some more heat out of the cluch side.

Don  :unsure:
1" heat shrink tubing will work about as well.

- Mark

 
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