Harbor Freight Motorcycle tire adapter changes.

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As long as we are saying "what were they thinking"...

Can anyoine see where that center post would actual be of any benefit? ... why did they not just begin with thinner post that might fit through some wheels?

who takes their wheel bearings out to change a tire?

 
Bargoon for $20.

bwv, yes on the 5/8" shaft and getting rid of the overarm. When you snug up a wheel, it may not be perfectly centered over the lower tube, so it will drop in (that's why I mentioned to mark where the rim clamps go if you're doing various size wheels). I'm not sure if your new plastic will hold up, but it may because it has vertical support on the outside. Give it a try. The idea is not to have too much material on the outside of the rim so the tire can be pushed down past them if need be (with wider rear tires or car tires). If you use a cargo strap on a wheel spoke for anti-rotation, you likely don't need to run up the rim clamps that tight. An alternate idea is to put a big long bolt or threaded rod vertically through one of the arms, covered in garden hose or plastic pipe to protect the wheel spoke, and it will act as an anti-rotation device.

 
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Ok, so I've been reading through this thread and have a question or two. I was given a basic HF tire changer. Do I need to buy the motorcycle adapter for it? I've seen the arm in some of the photos. I'm assuming, bad I know, that this is supposed to help hold the wheel down.

 
Yes you will need the adapter. Follow the instructions in post #14 item 4 for a good deal.

You will also need a 5/8 rod and mojoblocks (when new style are ready) and an improved tire lever. (post #33)

 
Bargoon for $20.
bwv, yes on the 5/8" shaft and getting rid of the overarm. When you snug up a wheel, it may not be perfectly centered over the lower tube, so it will drop in (that's why I mentioned to mark where the rim clamps go if you're doing various size wheels). I'm not sure if your new plastic will hold up, but it may because it has vertical support on the outside. Give it a try. The idea is not to have too much material on the outside of the rim so the tire can be pushed down past them if need be (with wider rear tires or car tires). If you use a cargo strap on a wheel spoke for anti-rotation, you likely don't need to run up the rim clamps that tight. An alternate idea is to put a big long bolt or threaded rod vertically through one of the arms, covered in garden hose or plastic pipe to protect the wheel spoke, and it will act as an anti-rotation device.
I too think the PVC plastic board might wind up being too soft...but I did crush tests on it in the bench vice and with some WP pliers, and it did deform, but, it did not crack, shear, or chip... just molded to the surface of crushing device. The flat metal on the HF rim clamp should provide a sufficient backer for it.

My hope is that, being softer than HDPE or Polyproylene and not anywhere near as slippery, it will "grab" the rim a little better as it deforms. I will likely only change 8-10 tires a year max(if my riding buddies stop by with beer and tires). So if it deforms, thats ok. And... I have like 5 feet of this "board" here.. so cost is zero, and if you count garage time making the blocks.. it's then a Bonus...cause I save money on therapy ;)

That being said, if it fails and proves unusable, I will replace it with the new design Mojo Blocks, a layered stack of dollar store cutting board chunks, or this HDPE(Clicky)

I need to get this rear tire worn out or one of you guys needs to stop by so i can test it.

 
Ok, so I've been reading through this thread and have a question or two. I was given a basic HF tire changer. Do I need to buy the motorcycle adapter for it? I've seen the arm in some of the photos. I'm assuming, bad I know, that this is supposed to help hold the wheel down.
I don't know for sure what the arm is for except to stabilize the top of the bar that goes down through the bearing. Most of us took it off right away. Just the 5/8" bar down through the bearing is adequate to pull against when using the bar to demount and mount if desired. The older style changer can be used without the Mojoblocks, but you'll need to cushion the hooks with something. I use strips from plastic milk jugs ziptied to them. Someone else here used duct tape. I'm sure the Mojoblocks are handier.

The lever provided with the changer didn't work well for me at all. I used it on some steel trailer tires and scratched even them; it'll never get near aluminum ;) I replaced it with a Mojolever and use it to both mount and de-mount the tires.

Be prepared to bolt it to the floor or a heavy piece of plywood. Mine is mounted on a 4 x 4 piece of half-inch plywood when in use; heavier would be better.

 
What about delrin as a grab block? There are quite a few blocks on ebay.

bwv what is the outside dimensions of your blocks?

 
I find that the demount end of the various tire bars, NoMar, Noscuff and MojoLever (I own copies of the first two) work very well for removing tires. OTOH, the tire mounting end of these things tend to be a PITA. Maybe I have not been using them properly, but I have tried both styles of mount bar repeatedly and I find it much easier to just lever the second bead of the tires on using MotionPro tire irons and milk bottle rim protection. (the first bead will always just push right on with a little lubrication)
YMMV
Fred, I found this on Youtube, and this is exactly how I use the Mojolever to mount tires. It even works on those very difficult Goldwing rears. You can probably skip to about 3:00.

I was surprised he's using the Harbor Freight changer without the motorcycle adapter.




 
What about delrin as a grab block? There are quite a few blocks on ebay.bwv what is the outside dimensions of your blocks?
This is what i made...

block1.jpg


 
I find that the demount end of the various tire bars, NoMar, Noscuff and MojoLever (I own copies of the first two) work very well for removing tires. OTOH, the tire mounting end of these things tend to be a PITA. Maybe I have not been using them properly, but I have tried both styles of mount bar repeatedly and I find it much easier to just lever the second bead of the tires on using MotionPro tire irons and milk bottle rim protection. (the first bead will always just push right on with a little lubrication)
YMMV
Fred, I found this on Youtube, and this is exactly how I use the Mojolever to mount tires. It even works on those very difficult Goldwing rears. You can probably skip to about 3:00.

Thanks. The mounting end of the NoScuff is identical to the Mojo lever. I think what I haven't been doing right is lubing the drop center of the wheel. I've just been lubing the rim of the wheel and the bead of the tire. I'll have to give it another chance next time and see if that makes the difference.

 
Thanks. The mounting end of the NoScuff is identical to the Mojo lever. I think what I haven't been doing right is lubing the drop center of the wheel. I've just been lubing the rim of the wheel and the bead of the tire. I'll have to give it another chance next time and see if that makes the difference.

That's one thing I haven't done. I'll try it myself next time. Once I figured out to put the lip of the tool over the edge of the rim first, things started going well.

 
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