Headlight Adjustments

[escapefjrtist]

Can't seem to find any information on this subject. The shop manual describes "how" to adjust the headlight bulbs but... it doesn't give any (that I've found yet) recommendation on "where" to have them pointed when you're finished.

So, how is everyone setting the bulbs? I realize of course, ride height, load, etc. effects the settings. What I'm looking for is; how far back from the garage door, wall, etc., do you set the bike, and then how high and wide are the individual lights set? It seems like mine are lighting the tree tops now on low beam.

Help?

TIA

--G

 

[SkooterG]

As far as I am concerned, there is no definite scientific method to this. Just trial and error. Perhaps someone will come along and *****-slap me, but here is what I do:

FJR on centerstand about 20' from garage door. Make sure the lights are on low beam, as you will see there is a most excellent sharp cut-off at the top of the light pattern. High beam pattern is fuzzy and vague and will make things much harder. Don't ask me how I know this.

Now place a bathtowel over one of the lights (draping it over windscreen). Now place a piece of tape about 2' long on your garage door along the light pattern cut-offI mentioned above, and approximately centering it. Repeat for the other side. Now, immediately, you can tell if both lights match each other.

Once again, having the towel over one of the lights, I start adjusting the other one. I usually move the pattern a couple inches. I then swithch to the other light and match the same beam level.

Now its time to go riding and test your adjustments. Best results will be a long straight two-lane road with no other ambient lighting around. I find that by stabbing the front brake quickly and gently, I can induce a quick dive which will give me a feel for where the top of the light pattern is. Once again, it is imperative that you do this on low beam! Though, you can also do this on high beam too, to get an idea where the center of intensity of the light pattern is.

You may have to re-adjust a couple times, but I have found the above method very useful.

The only problem will be loading. Once I had my lights adjusted for my normal local riding, sans bags, I found that when loaded for long distance trips, with bags on and loaded, fuel cell full, and luggage strapped to it, my headlights were once again pointed too high. And yes, I did increase the pre-load.

I am not one for adding unnecessary bling to the fjr, but an electric headlight adjuster would be very applicable and convienant IMHO.

Good luck!

 

[Yambone]

Very common to find the beams come adjusted high from the factory. Once you find and figure out the star wheel adjusters, you can adjust them down and stop the death threats from irate cagers and reduce spot-lighting wildlife violations. Note, the adjustor wheel threads are very fine, so it takes a bunch of rotations to make a difference.

As SkooterG mentioned, the low beam has a distinct top line. I aim that line near the top of the trunk while following the average sedan at a respectable distance in city traffic. This is also ususally just below their rear view mirror level. Not very scientific, but gets you in the ball park. If you find you get cut off by left turning traffic, you are too low! :bigeyes:

As far as width of the settings, the stock seemed fine and I haven't touched them.

 

[FJRocket]

I haven't gotten flashed much lately, but I noticed my low beams were lighting up the tall road signs at the side of the road. I also noticed that my light was bouncing above the trunk and into the side mirrors on some smaller cars. Although I don't think it's such a bad idea to have higher/brighter than "normal" headlights, I went ahead and cranked mine down.

I did it by trial and error over a couple nights. I now have the low beams below the "horizon" and the high beams above the horizon. Lemme tell you it took me A BUNCH of turns of the 3 pronged wheels to get those beams lowered. A BUNCH. I kept thinking I was going to run out of adjustment. I'm going to try to run them this low for a while and see how I like it.

BTW, when I was cranking them down, with beams against the wall in my garage, it didn't seem that they were moving down at all. But they did. Now they don't seem to be "**** catchers" any more.

 

[escapefjrtist]

Thanks for the responses and Greg, for your description of how "youse" guys do it. After it got dark last night, here is what I found:

The left light was definitely out to lunch. Not even in the same zip code. No wonder the cages were getting pissed at me at night. At 20' back from the garage door it was a good 8" higher than the right side and pointed right at the on coming drivers eyes. Many cranks later it's now set just slightly wider than the SO's cage lights. I decided on a initial height of 36" to the top of the cut off.

Right side was a little better, but it was also pointed at the on coming traffic. Some twists later I left it slightly to the right, lighting the side road better. Height was actually pretty good on it, only about 2" high to my above setting.

This morning on my way to work at oh-dark-thirty, the lights are MUCH better. Good broad pattern. Only at the last minute, do I notice my lights lighting up the interior of the passing car. Much better illumination of the road directly in front. It will help me dodge the skunks, that have come out in force the last couple days. The lights might still be a couple inches high, but I'll leave them for now.

So....final settings, at 20' back from the garage door and on the center stand, cutoff height 36" off the deck. Width of the hot spot is about 4'6" give or take, and pointed just slightly to the right. Still lights the on coming lane fine.

BTW, it seems my star adjusters work backwards from the shop manual :blink: or maybe I was just tired.

Thanks again everyone...Hope this helps someone else.

--G

 

[sgoat]

This works well for a baseline adjustment. You may want/need to fine tune the lights, but this will get you in the ballpark.

Light Adjustment

 

[Craig in Denver]

And:

Clockwise for up, counter clockwise for down.

 

[squeezer]

And:Clockwise for up, counter clockwise for down.

Dug up this old thread while searching because I've got to get the beams down a bit.

A couple quick question to save me a little time:

1. The service manual says exactly the opposite -- clockwise for down, counterclockwise for up. Which one is it?

2. Is it worth taking off the dash panels to do this?

 

[Shadow]

The service manual is correct

 

[dcarver]

Good info guyz! Exactly what this board is about. I've not adjusted mine, haven't had anyone flashing me..but if their not flashing, then it must be too low?

 

[AZrider]

I was getting flashed by oncoming cars. Tried to adjust the left one down but it didn't seem to be doing anything. So thanks for the tips on the garage door and tape and that it takes a bunch of turns to move them.

AZ

 

[bramfrank]

You can't set headlight aim with the bike on the center stand because the rear wheel is in the air, so your result will be too high for street riding, unless you compensate for this and aim for a point somewhat lower than you would otherwise have chosen.

It makes a lot more sense (and, as I recall, admittedly without checking) you are supposed to have the machine loaded (i.e. you and your equipment mounted) to set the lighting.

My personal preference is to set the HIGH beam for just slightly below level while riding, to get the best long range performance - the low beam will naturally aim somewhat below that, which is really what I want.

 

[Geezer]

[2. Is it worth taking off the dash panels to do this?

No. It is not necessary to remove the dash panels. I even change the bulbs without removing any plastic, though the battery makes the right side a little more difficult.

The main thing to remember when adjusting headlight aim is that it changes with the loading of your bike. You should adjust them with your normal load on the bike, not on the center stand, and only lightly touching your feet down for balance.

 

[C&C]

On a flat surface and with your normal riding weight when you are shining your lights on forward object, as you get closer, your 'top of beam' should start getting higher. That will show that your aim is negative of parallel and shouldn't be shining in an oncoming vehicle driver's eyes.

 

[bramfrank]

On a flat surface and with your normal riding weight when you are shining your lights on forward object, as you get closer, your 'top of beam' should start getting lower. That will show that your aim is negative of parallel and shouldn't be shining in an oncoming vehicle driver's eyes.

Shouldn't that be 'higher', rather than 'lower'?

 

[C&C]

On a flat surface and with your normal riding weight when you are shining your lights on forward object, as you get closer, your 'top of beam' should start getting lower. That will show that your aim is negative of parallel and shouldn't be shining in an oncoming vehicle driver's eyes.

Shouldn't that be 'higher', rather than 'lower'?

Yes, it should, thanks; I have edited my post.

 

[squeezer]

Good photos on adjustment location on the 03. Click.

So, what I'm really learning is that the procedure differs by model year. On the 03, there is nothing you can crank by hand. It's an 8mm nut located below and to the outside of the headlight. And on the 03, clockwise lowers the beam, and counterclockwise raises it.

 

[Luke]

Are the flashers men or women?

Now if you are constantly being flashed by women, then what's the problem?