Heat Troller Installation

[Unicycle52]

I am about to install a "panel mount" heat troller in the panel that contains the 4-way flasher switch (04 model FJR). The instructions with the heat troller state that I should not cut off any of the connectors on the unit or I void the warranty. Most of these wires are way to long (by several feet). Have most of you guys been leaving everything as is and just bundling up the wires or have you been cutting them? I would like to set it up with connectors so that when I remove that panel for servicing it is not tethered to the bike and in the way. I don't have a problem cutting the wires and keeping track of the polarity, I'm just curious what the majority is doing.

Bill Hamilton

 

[spalkin]

I just installed Dual Heat Troller dials in my 'A' Panel. I left all their wiring intact and coiled it up below my dials. That way when I go to take off that panel I won't wish I had more line. My advice, leave it intact.

 

[FJR1300Mark]

I just adde one this afternoon and I had to add some wire to put the unit under the seat. And now I"m thinking I should have added a little more because it is tethered to the bike now.

I also went for my first ride with heated jacket and gloves and life is good.

I have a riding weekend coming up and I wont' be cold now.

Mark

 

[yamaholic]

Normally I would cut these wires, but they made such a big deal about not doing it...I thought once in my life I better follow the instructions.

I *suspect* they don't want the common Joe to do it because the common Joe wouldn't take the time to really do it right (ie solder, heat shrink, elec tape, wire loom). While I would do it right, I decided to leave it alone.

Yep, coil the wire up. That panel rarely comes off anyway once your farkles are in place. I suppose you could call them and chat it over if you really do know how to make a solid, insulated, proper connection.

 

[FJR1300Mark]

I extended the power leads to the battery so I could put the unit under my seat. Used the same wire, soldered the two and used scrink wrap. All works fine.

 

[ian]

I cut off the XS wire when I installed both of mine in 04-no problems. Ian, Iowa

BTW drill the black panel carefully, it's thin and easily crumbles. I epoxided some plastic sheeting on the back (on the replacement panel) before I drilled it.

 

[luvtoride]

I installed one of these in the same spot that you are. I didn't cut the wires... much to the dismay of the person that was helping me hook it up.

 

[double_entendre]

Normally I would cut these wires, but they made such a big deal about not doing it...I thought once in my life I better follow the instructions.I *suspect* they don't want the common Joe to do it because the common Joe wouldn't take the time to really do it right (ie solder, heat shrink, elec tape, wire loom). While I would do it right, I decided to leave it alone.

Yep, coil the wire up. That panel rarely comes off anyway once your farkles are in place. I suppose you could call them and chat it over if you really do know how to make a solid, insulated, proper connection.

Yup, I just coiled it up and called it good enough. My bet is that they figure your average ****** (<thread merge> who also can't make a safe left turn </thread merge&gt wouldn't cut out the excess correctly.

Rancho

 

[Checkswrecks]

I didn't cut them and tie-wrapped them into a bundle. But I also hid the wiring along the inner panels in front of the forks. I used a dremel to make small slots parrellel to the bottom of the panels, about a quarter inch up. The wires are routed on the hidden side and I used real small tie-wraps through the slots to hold them there.

Also, be careful about the depth of your heatroller on the "A" panel.

Bob

 

[brazos parker]

Also, be careful about the depth of your heatroller on the "A" panel.

'splain, please.