Heated Grip - Suicide Cruise install

[kingoldrum]

Installed a set of heated grip elements (Kimpex ~20Watts/element), under the original grips. Then added a vista cruise throttle lock and grip puppies.

Last weekend was cold and rainy so I ran the grip heaters on high for several hours and as the day went on I turned them down and eventually off. I was suprised at the end of the day when my throttle became quite difficut to open, and would not close without a strong reverse twist. Felt like a classic case of forgetting to release the Vista cruise, but it was not set. This is a very lousy feeling by the way. Figured the lock had somehow tightened up or caught something in the mechanism. Limped home and tried to adjust the throttle lock, eventually removing it entirely but with no improvement to the suicide cruise control feature.

Pulled everything off, including the throttle tube, which grabbed the bar pretty tightly on the way off. Cleaned the pieces but still found the tube would grip the handle bar. The tube was distorted and required a good re-rounding with a 7/8 drill bit to eventually go onto the bar without grabbing. It then rotated freely on the handlebar, and everything assembled properly.

If the tube is nylon, it must have had to get awfully hot to distort, but that is all I can figure happened. I do know that the grip puppies insulate you from the heater causing slow warm-up and force the element to be on high for long periods. These grips get very hot without the puppies. Perhaps the elements have a particularily nasty hot spot?

Have been eyeballing the aluminum Ergo tube to help with the abrupt throttle. Seems I now have an even better reason.

Anyone else melt a tube? Could not find it looking through the forum.

 

[user 213]

20 watts is a lot of heat. IIRC, there are different ways to wire the elements, depending on how much heat output you want. Sounds like w/o the grip puppies you would be burning your hands. The throttle sleeve is only plastic, so not surprising that it distorted between the heat and your weight/grip on it.

The aluminum sleeve, if it directly replaces the plastic oem one, won't distort under heat less than it takes to combust the grips.

Have you considered heated gloves?

 

[kingoldrum]

20 watts is a lot of heat. IIRC, there are different ways to wire the elements, depending on how much heat output you want. Sounds like w/o the grip puppies you would be burning your hands. The throttle sleeve is only plastic, so not surprising that it distorted between the heat and your weight/grip on it.
The aluminum sleeve, if it directly replaces the plastic oem one, won't distort under heat less than it takes to combust the grips.

Have you considered heated gloves?

Hi OC. I have used this style grip heater on a few bikes including a previous fjr. I use the higher wattage wiring and have a "heat-troller" type control to manage the heat. I do think these ran on high significantly longer than previously.

Heated grips allow a variety of gloves to be worn, so I have not considered heated gloves although know some people who have used them and loved them.

 

[user 213]

I agree that the Heat-Troller with the 'hot' wiring is an excellent method. Just thinking that that much heat is bound to do some damage to the sleeve. I've read reports of gel grips melting with the same wiring set up on high. With the Grip Puppies acting as insulation, it just seems to be a contradiction.

If you want the heat, ditch the GPs. If you want the bigger grip, perhaps a better choice with the heated elemets is a different grip that doesn't insulate so much?

I use heated gloves becase my whole hand gets cold when it's cold enough that I need heat. (seldom) This is not to say that I don't ride in cold weather, just that I use hand guards and have some thinsulate gloves that are good to below freezing, then I break out the Gerbing gloves. I do find I need to turn the heat up more on the gloves than the jacket liner, (dual circuit), but can't recall full high being used more than one miserable ride. I have ridden hundreds of miles in snow, unfortunatly. Sometimes you just have to get there.

Perhaps some handguards would allow you to reduce the heat you use on the grips, helping to avoid a re-occurance?

 

[mdisher]

dump that plastic throttle tube and install the aluminum G2 throttle tube, makes it much smoother in my experience.

-MD

 

[Silent]

dump that plastic throttle tube and install the aluminum G2 throttle tube, makes it much smoother in my experience.

+1

Err...

Gunny!

Errr...

oster_stupid:

 

[lotecredneck]

Installed a set of heated grip elements (Kimpex ~20Watts/element), under the original grips. Then added a vista cruise throttle lock and grip puppies.Last weekend was cold and rainy so I ran the grip heaters on high for several hours and as the day went on I turned them down and eventually off. I was suprised at the end of the day when my throttle became quite difficut to open, and would not close without a strong reverse twist. Felt like a classic case of forgetting to release the Vista cruise, but it was not set. This is a very lousy feeling by the way. Figured the lock had somehow tightened up or caught something in the mechanism. Limped home and tried to adjust the throttle lock, eventually removing it entirely but with no improvement to the suicide cruise control feature.

Pulled everything off, including the throttle tube, which grabbed the bar pretty tightly on the way off. Cleaned the pieces but still found the tube would grip the handle bar. The tube was distorted and required a good re-rounding with a 7/8 drill bit to eventually go onto the bar without grabbing. It then rotated freely on the handlebar, and everything assembled properly.

If the tube is nylon, it must have had to get awfully hot to distort, but that is all I can figure happened. I do know that the grip puppies insulate you from the heater causing slow warm-up and force the element to be on high for long periods. These grips get very hot without the puppies. Perhaps the elements have a particularily nasty hot spot?

Have been eyeballing the aluminum Ergo tube to help with the abrupt throttle. Seems I now have an even better reason.

Anyone else melt a tube? Could not find it looking through the forum.

Every FJR I have installed grip panels under has caused the tube to distort regardless of brand. The tolerance is fairly small between the throttle pipe and the bar and the heat tends to slightly distort the tube. If you turn the heated grip panels back on the sticking will go away!

Put a set of the Honda heated grips on and forget about it or use the G2 aluminum throttle pipe with the heated panels and this will solve your problem. I put a set of Grip Puppies on my AE and the heat produced under the GP's caused the grip to dry out and when I took the GP's off due to one of them splitting, the stock heated grips were so dry and slick you can hardly hang on to them.

 

[kingoldrum]

Installed a set of heated grip elements (Kimpex ~20Watts/element), under the original grips. Then added a vista cruise throttle lock and grip puppies.Last weekend was cold and rainy so I ran the grip heaters on high for several hours and as the day went on I turned them down and eventually off. I was suprised at the end of the day when my throttle became quite difficut to open, and would not close without a strong reverse twist. Felt like a classic case of forgetting to release the Vista cruise, but it was not set. This is a very lousy feeling by the way. Figured the lock had somehow tightened up or caught something in the mechanism. Limped home and tried to adjust the throttle lock, eventually removing it entirely but with no improvement to the suicide cruise control feature.

Pulled everything off, including the throttle tube, which grabbed the bar pretty tightly on the way off. Cleaned the pieces but still found the tube would grip the handle bar. The tube was distorted and required a good re-rounding with a 7/8 drill bit to eventually go onto the bar without grabbing. It then rotated freely on the handlebar, and everything assembled properly.

If the tube is nylon, it must have had to get awfully hot to distort, but that is all I can figure happened. I do know that the grip puppies insulate you from the heater causing slow warm-up and force the element to be on high for long periods. These grips get very hot without the puppies. Perhaps the elements have a particularily nasty hot spot?

Have been eyeballing the aluminum Ergo tube to help with the abrupt throttle. Seems I now have an even better reason.

Anyone else melt a tube? Could not find it looking through the forum.

Every FJR I have installed grip panels under has caused the tube to distort regardless of brand. The tolerance is fairly small between the throttle pipe and the bar and the heat tends to slightly distort the tube. If you turn the heated grip panels back on the sticking will go away!

Put a set of the Honda heated grips on and forget about it or use the G2 aluminum throttle pipe with the heated panels and this will solve your problem. I put a set of Grip Puppies on my AE and the heat produced under the GP's caused the grip to dry out and when I took the GP's off due to one of them splitting, the stock heated grips were so dry and slick you can hardly hang on to them.

Thanks LoTech. I had not run into this with previous under grip elements but I guess I was lucky. Since I have not been able to tame the twitchy throttle, went ahead and ordered the Ergo tube. I insulated the left bar before applying the element, so expect I should do the same with an aluminum tube.

 

[kingoldrum]

Hello. I installed the G2 Egonomics tube and some new Sunline Grand Touring grips. So of course the melting throttle tube problem is eliminated. A few observations:

Get your stuff from SportBikeEffects. Jeff's customer service is unmatched, and his discount for FJR owners a real bonus.

Installation is as easy as everyone says.

Vista Cruise re-installed and works great with the new throttle tube.

Sunline grips seem very nice, beats the squishyness of the Grip Puppies, but thickens things up nicely.

Now to the throttle tube: It definetly helps with the smooth application of power, coming out of a corner for example. It basically moves the "fun button" to the other end of the throttle twist. Might be a bit too far away as I felt myself looking for it? I bet something between the OEM and the kit supplied "400" cam might be best for me, but I will stick with this for awhile. Perhaps the AE riders will love the 400, and others something in between?

Anyway, an easy install and you can really change the way power comes on with throttle.

 

[27Man]

Installed a set of heated grip elements (Kimpex ~20Watts/element), under the original grips. Then added a vista cruise throttle lock and grip puppies.

I have installed a set of Kimpex heated grip elements, plan to add a Vista Cruise and Grip Puppies just as you have done. My current problem is where to find switched power for the Kimpex Low On/OFF/Hi On toggle switch. Would sure appreciate learning from you where you taped into power and ground.

Thanks

27Man

 

[kingoldrum]

Installed a set of heated grip elements (Kimpex ~20Watts/element), under the original grips. Then added a vista cruise throttle lock and grip puppies.

I have installed a set of Kimpex heated grip elements, plan to add a Vista Cruise and Grip Puppies just as you have done. My current problem is where to find switched power for the Kimpex Low On/OFF/Hi On toggle switch. Would sure appreciate learning from you where you taped into power and ground.

Thanks

27Man

Hi 27. I was adding other features (power outlet, etc) and wanted to have a dedicated auxillary power relay to power all the stuff. I never hunted for an existing switched circuit that could supply the several amps required for the heated grips. Have seen some links where people have found what appeared to be the OEM heated grips power wiring, and were able to use that. Take a look for that.

If you are considering adding other high current gear, an auxillary relay is a good way to go. Mine interfaces directly to the battery for both the power and ground, and I grabbed one of the wires going to a fairing mounted light to control the relay.

 

[clutchless1]

One thing I didn't see, but then again I'm blind in one eye and can't see out of the other, is heat. Remember heat will and does make things tighter, the hotter something gets the more it expands. The throttle minder or cruise control device when it gets hot can expand and lock up against the inside of the throttle itself if it doesn't have enough room between all of the moving parts. We must also take into consideration any mechanical cruise control has to be made to fit tighter because of the extra strong throttle spring. That little plastic throttle tube is ok, but as soon as I get to mine it's going to be replaced. I'm hoping to be able to find the throttle assy that has the bearings on the very end, from a tight throttle to begin with and throw in the factory heated hand grips I believe this is a weak link in the chain.

I used another type of cruise on my 06, the type when you tighten it so it locks against the side of the throttle itself. I found this thing was very expensive and not to my liking so I'm going to remove it. After a lot of thought about adding a cruise of some type I'm leaning toward the electronic type if I do decide to add one again. I have come to the conclusion I don't like messing with the throttle assy when it comes to installing some type of cruise unit, there are too many stories of throttles getting hung for some reason. But I have to ask myself why I need to add one in the first place? The electronic type is less than $100.00 from Summit Racing, but the install and finding a location for some of the larger parts in this kit leave a lot to be desired. I think what I'm going to do is reduce the throttle spring tension, add a throttle helper, and change the plastic throttle unit to an aluminum type with the bearings and call it good.

Be Safe,

Clutchless1

 

[gr8eyes]

This is a very timely thread for me as I am just now trying to figure out how to wire up Warchilds 12volt barrier strip with relay and fuse to supply power for other things such as heated grips. I'm assuming that you can use the strip to power the heated grips. I haven't a clue how to wire it up. I bought the symtex(sp) grips that have the three wire from each element. There werent any directions on how to wire it up, unfortunately. BTW these grips just have a high- off- lo. rocker switch. I don't care about having the heat troller. So this should be easy to wire up. But I don't have a clue how to hook the wires to the 12V barrier strip.

One question I have is if you wire something up to the positive on the battery why do you need to tap into a turn signal wire for power? From my reading you do need to tap into a turn signal wire but there are 3 going to each turn signal, but I have know idea which one to tap into.?

As you can tell I'm completely clueless when it comes to electronics. Warchild and Bounce and Marc all have directions on their sites that I've read 3 times each, but its still more complicated than I can decipher.

I'm hoping the longer I look at it, it will all start to make sense.

Glenn

 

[kingoldrum]

This is a very timely thread for me as I am just now trying to figure out how to wire up Warchilds 12volt barrier strip with relay and fuse to supply power for other things such as heated grips. I'm assuming that you can use the strip to power the heated grips. I haven't a clue how to wire it up. I bought the symtex(sp) grips that have the three wire from each element. There werent any directions on how to wire it up, unfortunately. BTW these grips just have a high- off- lo. rocker switch. I don't care about having the heat troller. So this should be easy to wire up. But I don't have a clue how to hook the wires to the 12V barrier strip.
One question I have is if you wire something up to the positive on the battery why do you need to tap into a turn signal wire for power? From my reading you do need to tap into a turn signal wire but there are 3 going to each turn signal, but I have know idea which one to tap into.?

As you can tell I'm completely clueless when it comes to electronics. Warchild and Bounce and Marc all have directions on their sites that I've read 3 times each, but its still more complicated than I can decipher.

I'm hoping the longer I look at it, it will all start to make sense.

Glenn

Hi Glenn. What you want for all these assessories is a power source that does not stay on when the ignition is off..since things like heated grips will quickly eat the battery. The wire I grabbed from the light was just one of the running lights. It is on with the ignition, and it energizes the relay which then supplies all the big current stuff on your aux power strip. There might be a schematic sketch somewhere on the forum that shows this. I will take a look for it.

Finding a good place to mount all the stuff is the first step. Looks like some are using an area under the seat (when I did that on a previous bike, I grabbed a tail-light wire to control the relay). There is very little room to mount much of anything under the panel that covers the battery, so you are forced to go elsewhere. Are you comfortable pulling side panels off? I put my relay there just below the battery.

I think we can take you through this pretty easily. If you are really uncomfortable with this, perhaps another board member has already done it in your area and can coach you through it.