HELP WANTED! Soak Clutch? Rebuild? Ideas?

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Test for slipping clutch: While riding, put it in 5th gear and then pop the throttle wide open. If it slips it's the clutch. If it doesn't slip or doesn't slip every time you need to look at they hydraulic system. When worn clutch plates start to slip they continue to slip and are not intermittent. All it takes is high load on the drive line (5th gear) and lots of engine power (large throttle openings).

In a +3, when the engine is hot open the bleed screw on the slave cylinder slowly and carefully with drip towel handy. If this doesn't fix the slip you may need to look at the master cylinder. Say, when was the last time you disassembled, cleaned and lubed the clutch pivot?

 
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Just guessing, but with 65,000 miles on it, you may be due for a knew clutch.
Just shy of 100 000 miles.
Well, ****.

Got 91K on mine.

Now I'm getting all paranoid...

How long it lasts with how you ride and where you ride. City riding with lot's of starting and stopping is going to put a lot more where and tear then open highways. Only Mike can answer the question regarding his bike.

I've had race bikes that the clutch was good for one start nad that is it. Due to a lot of feathering the clutch to keep engine RPM up so it would launch. I have had others that will go a whole season of starts.

 
As I recall, JB really killed his clutch.
umm.gif
Knowing how you ride (Mike), I don't think it's the same problem, but I also agree, it's more likelly new plates.

 
Check for pressure in the system (bleed valve). If no pressure present, then you are looking at disassembly. You will be able to see if the plates are damaged when you disassemble it. You need to inspect all the friction plates. One damaged plate will make it slip (car oil damage (I speak from experience though I do not like to admit it) will show burnt friction material on the slipping plates and sections of friction material missing from the plates). Normal clutch wear will apear much the same when it gets bad enough to cause slipping.

If it was mine, and the steels looked good (not burnt, not warped, and checked with a mic), I would only replace the friction that had wear.

If I was giving advice on a motorcycle forum and I found wear, I would recommend replacing the whole thing, including the diaphram and springs.

If everything looks good, check for a bur or corrosion on the steel edges and the basket slots. I have seen a bur cause clutch slipage on bikes, but it is rare.

I really do not know much and have no initals to put behind my name to give my words force or meaning. Just a normal guy, trying to help someone haveing a problem. Good luck to you!

 
Check for pressure in the system (bleed valve). If no pressure present, then you are looking at disassembly. You will be able to see if the plates are damaged when you disassemble it. You need to inspect all the friction plates. One damaged plate will make it slip (car oil damage (I speak from experience though I do not like to admit it) will show burnt friction material on the slipping plates and sections of friction material missing from the plates). Normal clutch wear will apear much the same when it gets bad enough to cause slipping.
If it was mine, and the steels looked good (not burnt, not warped, and checked with a mic), I would only replace the friction that had wear.

If I was giving advice on a motorcycle forum and I found wear, I would recommend replacing the whole thing, including the diaphram and springs.

If everything looks good, check for a bur or corrosion on the steel edges and the basket slots. I have seen a bur cause clutch slipage on bikes, but it is rare.

I really do not know much and have no initals to put behind my name to give my words force or meaning. Just a normal guy, trying to help someone haveing a problem. Good luck to you!
Agree 100%!!!

 
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