Help with Barbarian Mod & CO setting

[lele]

I try today to add 7 point on each cyl.. my old 01 run a lot better and cooler.Seems to have more midrange torque.Maybe fuel consumption grow up..probably

If nothing hurt the engine I will stay with this config

 

[Nanahanman]

@Nanahanman, how do you find the ride without the PowerCommander? Big difference?

I have had some seat time with the stock fueling and it does feel more "on off" coming off idle and making small throttle adjustments on off ramps.

Going to try the Co adjustment to see what happens and a 1000 km run to check fuel economy.

 

[jammess]

Adjusted the CO settings from zero on all cylinders to +30 across the board on my 2010. The idle while fairly smooth to begin with is completely smooth now. I also had what I would call very mild surging when riding stop and go in town at 15 to 20 mph which is completely gone now. Haven't had a chance to find out if this has effected cruising mpg. Engine might be running a bit cooler and no doubt the catalytic converter is also. I didn't start out at +30. Started at +10 and began increasing in +5 increments. At +25 all was really good but you know how it is when if a little is good then more must be better but +30 is the max I'm going to go and maybe back to +25.

Anyway, long and short is I'm happy with the results obtained and a cooler top end can't be a bad thing for engine life.

 

[lele]

stay with original values..too much fuel is bad

 

[Nanahanman]

@Nanahanman, how do you find the ride without the PowerCommander? Big difference?

I have just completed 3600 km after going back from PCV to just the BJM with CO adjustments. (spring unwind and thottle tube done long ago)

It felt like I was a noob on the throttle! After 3 days I still could not get back the smooth shifts and throttle transitions I have had over the last 2 years.

Did the last 600 km after restoring the PCV with smoothness map. HUGE improvement! Easy shifts and thottle changes and no radical difference to fuel economy.

Will not change a thing now.

I have been riding a long time and a lot of different bikes and this 2006 FJR is, by far, the worst low throttle setting fuelling of any I have ridden.

Very happy with the PCV results.

 

[jammess]

Hi again. Been lowering the CO numbers by 2 each time to find lean best idle and best starting. Now down to +18 and all is still OK but cold start is just beginning to deteriorate a tiny bit so will stay at +18 for awhile. Been thinking about installing another O2 sensor bung and connecting my extra wideband O2 sensor then parking the R1100RS next to the feejer and running a cable over to the O2 on the feejer and having a look at the actual air fuel ratio at different CO settings. I notice Yamaha moved the narrowband O2 sensor on the gen3 to the crossover between the 1-2 and 3-4 exhaust headers from the 3-4 head pipe location. That would be a good place to put the new bung.

What I really should do is stop dinking around with the feejer and just ride the thing but I just can't resist diddling around. Maybe I should get a job.

 

[lele]

stop drinking also

 

[HotRodZilla]

Jammess, why are your settings so high? What are your trying to accomplish? I took mine up to the +12 recommended in the B-Mod thread, and it was too much. Backed them down to +7, and it has been great for years.

 

[jammess]

Jammess, why are your settings so high? What are your trying to accomplish? I took mine up to the +12 recommended in the B-Mod thread, and it was too much. Backed them down to +7, and it has been great for years.

I'm down to +16 now and am going to stay there for the time being. If I put everything back to 0-0-0-0 it will start cold then stall and must be restarted and then it will surge at idle and low RPM excessively. At +16 it starts fast and idles fairly smooth also pulls away much better especially when cold. Mileage seems little effected. Below +16 it acts like it wants to stall on a cold start. +7 doesn't do much if anything to address hard cold starting or surging at revs below 2K RPM. I suspect that once warmed up the bike operates in closed loop mode with the main sensor input to effect AFR being the O2 sensor. I doubt a high CO setting effects much on a warmed up motor. When accelerating the ECU no doubt will go open loop and probably looks at the CO setting especially at revs below 2.5K. At least this is my theory. I also think the bike operates in closed loop at constant idle when warmed up. I wish one could monitor a test point or a pin on the ECU connector to be able to tell for sure when the ECU is in open or closed loop.

Anyway, I like the way my FJR performs with a CO setting of 16,16,16,16.

 

[HotRodZilla]

I would dare to say something is wrong with your bike, and the extreme settings are simply hiding the symptoms, but not fixing the problem. It almost sounds like you have a bad vacuum cap or maybe dirty injectors. There's no reason your bike shouldn't run fairly well as it came out of the factory. I only changed mine afyet adding TwoBros pipes.

Seriously, something is wrong..

 

[jammess]

What you say about hiding symptoms might be correct, I don't deny that. This is my first FJR that I recently purchased with only 1200 original miles and a 2010 which means it did some serious siting around mostly in a Yamaha warehouse and a dealer showroom. This may mean it's time to send the fuel injectors to RC Engineering for cleaning and testing. On the other hand when I talk about poor starting or idling the term "poor" could be in the eye of the beholder that being me as in maybe I'm too critical and not all that familiar with exactly how an FJR normally runs. My neighbor just bought a new 2015 FJR that kind of acts the same way mine did, just not that smooth at start up or idle 'till warm. I do plan on sending the injectors out for cleaning this winter and I have ran a few bottles of Techron through since I bought the bike.

I just got the injectors back ('93 R1100RSL) from cleaning at RC Engineering. They found one injector to have a poor spray pattern and leaking which they repaired. Now I find my RS doesn't need to have the AFR set to 12.9 anymore but runs great at 13.5:1. I set the air fuel ratio using a wideband O2 sensor controller to affect the closed loop AFR. This also effects the open loop AFR to a small degree. I thought about installing a wideband controller on the FJR but have decided against it as I don't think it's necessary. The very slight surging I noticed on my FJR was nothing like it was on my RS, not even close. The early oilhead beemers were really bad, I mean BAD!

Oh, now the FJR is really high mileage at 2800 miles.

 

[StephanM]

Thought I'd post an update. The bike ran beautifully all summer. But it was cold for the ride to work last Friday (7C/45F), and I was *not* looking forward to the crazy surges I experienced in the spring. But to my surprise there were none! I'm thrilled.

It could be the +9 CO settings change, or the couple of Seafoam cans I ran through the gas, or using only quality fuel with low ethanol all summer. Also, do *not* use premium fuel if you're dealing with surges; the additives can make it worse.

For riders reading this thread looking for solutions, that worked for me.

 

[jammess]

I would dare to say something is wrong with your bike, and the extreme settings are simply hiding the symptoms, but not fixing the problem. It almost sounds like you have a bad vacuum cap or maybe dirty injectors. There's no reason your bike shouldn't run fairly well as it came out of the factory. I only changed mine afyet adding TwoBros pipes.
Seriously, something is wrong..

Hi Hot Rod, Just to update I got my fuel injectors back from RC Fuel Injection today. Two injectors were dripping with low flow rates after cleaning they tested OK. I installed injectors and synced throttle bodies. Bike starts cold and idles very smooth with no hesitation and or stumbling around 1500 RPM. Took short test ride at slow in town speeds and found much improved with no jerkiness like before. CO dialed back to +10 and all seems good will go to +7 tomorrow. Total bill with shipping was $116 and worth it. Going to use Lucas fuel system cleaner regularly from now on in beemer and FJR.

 

[jammess]

Time for one more update. I took a short 100 mile ride yesterday all two lane with some pretty good hills and averaged 50.8 mpg and completely smooth at all RPM's in any gear. I let it idle down to around 1500 revs in 5th gear when riding through a small town and it seemed happy with no tendency to lug. The CO settings are all at +10 and I think I'll leave it at that. I also think in the case of the FJR closed loop doesn't apply at idle or low RPM like the BMW.

I highly recommend RC Fuel Injection for injector testing and cleaning.

 

[redneckj]

Time for one more update. I took a short 100 mile ride yesterday all two lane with some pretty good hills and averaged 50.8 mpg and completely smooth at all RPM's in any gear. I let it idle down to around 1500 revs in 5th gear when riding through a small town and it seemed happy with no tendency to lug. The CO settings are all at +10 and I think I'll leave it at that. I also think in the case of the FJR closed loop doesn't apply at idle or low RPM like the BMW.
I highly recommend RC Fuel Injection for injector testing and cleaning.

I'll bet if you go ride with us between Fossil and Antelope, you won't get 50.8 MPG

 

[jammess]

lol..I'm very familiar with the road from Fossil to Antelope so I'll take a pass on your invitation. I don't have a death wish.

 

[StephanM]

Doing the injectors sounds like a good idea. Anyone can recommend a place in Edmonton, Alberta, Canada?