I just picked up the bike. It had been in an accident that damaged the fairing/headlight/windshield. When I turn the key to the "on" position, all lights illuminate on the display and the needles do their thing. Additionally, all turn signals work, as does the horn. Problem is...the bike's engine won't turn over when the start button is depressed. I brought the bike to a local motorcycle mechanic. He ran power straight to the starter and the engine turns over normally. There is absolutely no physical damage to the powertrain. He says the fuel injectors aren't cycling at all. We're thinking the no-start condition may be due to the "lean angle sensor" as a result of the accident. He says there isn't a check engine light on. Does anyone have any ideas? It seems like the bike is in "lockout mode" or something of the sort. There is no visible damage to any wires/relays/etc. Thanks, guys!
Hi Guys...newbie here...'07 FJR won't start after accident...HELP?!
- Thread starter csb
- Start date
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JamesK
Got to ride
I would try to reset the lean angle sensor assuming it is being displayed in the Diag screen.
Here are the steps, taken from the Bin-O-Facts
Here are the steps, taken from the Bin-O-Facts
Diagnostic ModeAppears to be the same for '03 - '05)
To enter Diagnostic Mode: Have the key turned off (kill switch on) and press the Select and Reset together. Turn the key to on and hold the buttons for about 8 seconds. A screen will apear that reads "d1 AG". release the buttons.
(so far, same as prior models)
Use the "SELECT" select "Co" adjustment or the diagnostic mode "d1 AG". Press Select and Reset for 2 seconds. "d:01" should appear on the clock if you did everything right.
Press "SELECT" for the next code, Press "RESET" for the previous code.
Codes go from d:01 to d:70 -- go buy a manual for the codes.
Note: Lean Angle Sensor (Overturned Motorcycle) Fault code: 30
Scroll through the diagnostic codes to:
61 (the history of fault codes). If you see a 0 at the bottom right then there are no trouble codes. However if you see a number 30 that is the code for an over turned motorcycle. If you have the code 30 and want to erase it. Press the select button and go to number 62 (erase history code). Then turn the kill switch off, then back on again. This will erase this and any other codes stored in the memory. Then turn the key off to go back to normal operations. If you have any more codes I suggest you order the big book from FJR Goodies to problem solve or take it to your dealer.
I would try to reset the lean angle sensor assuming it is being displayed in the Diag screen.
Here are the steps, taken from the Bin-O-Facts
Diagnostic Mode
To enter Diagnostic Mode: Have the key turned off (kill switch on) and press the Select and Reset together. Turn the key to on and hold the buttons for about 8 seconds. A screen will apear that reads "d1 AG". release the buttons.
(so far, same as prior models)
Use the "SELECT" select "Co" adjustment or the diagnostic mode "d1 AG". Press Select and Reset for 2 seconds. "d:01" should appear on the clock if you did everything right.
Press "SELECT" for the next code, Press "RESET" for the previous code.
Codes go from d:01 to d:70 -- go buy a manual for the codes.
Note: Lean Angle Sensor (Overturned Motorcycle) Fault code: 30
Scroll through the diagnostic codes to:
61 (the history of fault codes). If you see a 0 at the bottom right then there are no trouble codes. However if you see a number 30 that is the code for an over turned motorcycle. If you have the code 30 and want to erase it. Press the select button and go to number 62 (erase history code). Then turn the kill switch off, then back on again. This will erase this and any other codes stored in the memory. Then turn the key off to go back to normal operations. If you have any more codes I suggest you order the big book from FJR Goodies to problem solve or take it to your dealer.
From above...we went to #"61" and it displayed these codes: 12 (throttle position sensor stuck), 30 (tilt sensor activated) and 41 (tilt sensor disconnected or short-circuited). When we tried to reset/erase the codes per the above instructions (62), they just showed up right away again as soon as the codes were checked, HOWEVER, there are zero error codes showing on the LCD display when the bike it lit up. Also...there are error codes showing for "side stand switch" and "neutral safety switch", apparently. So...perhaps the bike thinks its kickstand is down or that it is in gear even when it is actually in neutral? What a strange list of problems from a bike that appears to have only sustained cosmetic damage...
CAN SOMEONE PLEASE PROVIDE ME WITH A CODE LIST W/ DEFINITIONS? This would help immensely!
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
Did anyone check the kill switch?
Looking at your earlier post, either you or your mechanic got one thing wrong.
#12 is Crankshaft position sensor, not Throttle Position Sensor.
For #30 and #41, they would certainly be "tripped" in an accident, i.e, fall-down-go-boom. However, to reset them, not erase the codes, but to actual return them to "normal" after the bike is back to vertical, you have to start the bike. But if the kill switch is off, you can't start the bike. Sort of a Catch 22.
Same goes for #12. A re-start will reset the function to normal unless the switch, wiriing or connector is bad, but a re-start with the kill switch turned off isn't possible.
Check the kill switch before you drive yourself nuts chasing wild geese.
It would be easy to assume that in the process of picking the bike up off the tarmac, someone hit the kill switch and turned it off.
Looking at your earlier post, either you or your mechanic got one thing wrong.
#12 is Crankshaft position sensor, not Throttle Position Sensor.
For #30 and #41, they would certainly be "tripped" in an accident, i.e, fall-down-go-boom. However, to reset them, not erase the codes, but to actual return them to "normal" after the bike is back to vertical, you have to start the bike. But if the kill switch is off, you can't start the bike. Sort of a Catch 22.
Same goes for #12. A re-start will reset the function to normal unless the switch, wiriing or connector is bad, but a re-start with the kill switch turned off isn't possible.
Check the kill switch before you drive yourself nuts chasing wild geese.
It would be easy to assume that in the process of picking the bike up off the tarmac, someone hit the kill switch and turned it off.
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You mean...check it in terms of voltage or resistance or...? I'm not sure, but I'll check with the mechanic. I know he's made sure it's not on when trying to start the bike.
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
No, I mean make sure the kill switch isn't switched off. Maybe it's just context here, yours being different from mine, but "I know he's made sure it's not on" means to me that it is switched off. See a problem here?
edted to add: The #30 error must be reset by first switching the kill switch OFF, then back ON.
So after a tipover, the procedure would essentially be this. Stand the bike up, deploy the sidestand, make sure it's in neutral, turn the key on, turn the kill switch on the right handlebar OFF, then back ON. If it doesn't start then, the hunt begins.
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escapefjrtist
Searching for Dry Roads
How about just make sure the kill switch is in the 'run' position...
--G
--G
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
You guys are cracking me up. Anyway...I guess the kill switch may, or may not, be functioning properly. I say this because it didn't seem to clear the 3 codes during the erase process (when it was supposed to be switched from off to on). The bike doesn't turn over regardless of the kill switch position...it only turns over when power is supplied directly to the starter. The 3 codes still showed up after trying to erase them using the above instructions...more than once, yet the LCD display shows 0 codes after it cycles. I should mention that the right handlebar was broken loose in the accident. It's still attached to the triple-tree, but only just. What would be the best way to check the functionality of the actual switch? Keep the replies coming!!!
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Interesting...#12 showed "throttle position sensor" in a code list I found through Google.
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
Stand bike up + deploy sidestand + make sure it's in neutral + turn key on + turn kill switch off, then on = NOTHING. The bike will not turn over (unless, as mentioned above, power is run directly to the starter). In addition, the injectors don't appear to be doing anything...not sure if he's checked spark. It's all so weird.
No, I mean make sure the kill switch isn't switched off. Maybe it's just context here, yours being different from mine, but "I know he's made sure it's not on" means to me that it is switched off. See a problem here?
edted to add: The #30 error must be reset by first switching the kill switch OFF, then back ON.
So after a tipover, the procedure would essentially be this. Stand the bike up, deploy the sidestand, make sure it's in neutral, turn the key on, turn the kill switch on the right handlebar OFF, then back ON. If it doesn't start then, the hunt begins.
MartyA
Well-known member
From the brief description the bike is still wrecked? Battery connections? Other electrical connections? Did someone start to connect stuff up and get some wrong? Sounds like an extended hunt...
I didn't think the description was so brief. Anyway...no electrical connections appear to be broken. No one started to connect anything up...it is just as it was after the accident occurred (aside from the fact that the damaged fairing has been removed).
Here is a summary: the bike powers up when the key is turned. The bike does not turn over when you hit the start button (makes no difference if the kill switch is off/on or whether the kickstand is up or down. The computer shows codes 12, 30 and 41. It also apparently shows a neutral safety switch code and a sidestand switch code. The bike will turn over normally when power is supplied directly to the starter. It will not fire, though. No electrical connections appear to be physically broken/damaged.
Question: #1) where, exactly, is the lean angle sensor located and what does it look like?
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mcatrophy
Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
QUOTE (csb @ Nov 18 2009, 04:49 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
...
Here is a summary: the bike powers up when the key is turned. The bike does not turn over when you hit the start button (makes no difference if the kill switch is off/on or whether the kickstand is up or down. The computer shows codes 12, 30 and 41. It also apparently shows a neutral safety switch code and a sidestand switch code. The bike will turn over normally when power is supplied directly to the starter. It will not fire, though. No electrical connections appear to be physically broken/damaged.
...
You say "I should mention that the right handlebar was broken loose in the accident.". Are you sure the wires to the kill switch haven't been stretched? Even if they look OK the cores may be damaged.
It does look like there is some general issue with the wiring, to have so many fault codes. It might be worth trying a diagnostic where the kill switch is used to (for instance) cycle the cooling fans. If it does, you know its wiring is OK.
Another possibility: All these safety switches are associated with what is referred to as a "Relay Unit" which includes a "Starting Cut-off Relay" and a "Fuel pump relay". I think (but I'm not sure) this is the lump stuck in the front under the fairing, roughly a quarter from the top, and a quarter from the right in the picture below:
(click on image for larger view)
Good luck!
...
Here is a summary: the bike powers up when the key is turned. The bike does not turn over when you hit the start button (makes no difference if the kill switch is off/on or whether the kickstand is up or down. The computer shows codes 12, 30 and 41. It also apparently shows a neutral safety switch code and a sidestand switch code. The bike will turn over normally when power is supplied directly to the starter. It will not fire, though. No electrical connections appear to be physically broken/damaged.
...
You say "I should mention that the right handlebar was broken loose in the accident.". Are you sure the wires to the kill switch haven't been stretched? Even if they look OK the cores may be damaged.
It does look like there is some general issue with the wiring, to have so many fault codes. It might be worth trying a diagnostic where the kill switch is used to (for instance) cycle the cooling fans. If it does, you know its wiring is OK.
Another possibility: All these safety switches are associated with what is referred to as a "Relay Unit" which includes a "Starting Cut-off Relay" and a "Fuel pump relay". I think (but I'm not sure) this is the lump stuck in the front under the fairing, roughly a quarter from the top, and a quarter from the right in the picture below:
(click on image for larger view)
Good luck!
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ionbeam
2 FUN
Here is a possible troubleshooting short-cut. The Run/Stop switch works by supplying power to the two ignition coils when in the Run position, and removing power to the coils when in the Stop position. Go to the diAG screen again, then go to Actuator Codes 30 and 31. Try to fire the coils. If the coils do not fire, the Run/Stop switch or associated wiring is bad. If the coils DO fire, then you should check out the "Starting Cut-off Relay" and the associated items such as the side stand switch, neutral switch and neutral light. mcatrophy importantly notes that the relay is in the damaged nose area.
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Good morning, and thanks for the replies. I will be sure to have my mechanic take a look at this thread as he attempt to navigate through things...very helpful ideas/info. I'll post an update later today. In the meantime...if anyone else has ideas, keep 'em coming!
wfooshee
O, Woe is me!!
As I was reading the thread, my mind kept screaming "Starter Interlock Relay!" and I was wondering why it never came up. csb, the relay's purpose is to prevent the engine running or starter engaging if the bike is in gear and the sidestand is down, and it prevents the starter from engaging in the same situation, plus if the sidetand is up, bike is in gear, and the clutch lever is released (i.e. prevents starting when bike would move.)
The fact that cycling the kill switch is not resetting codes still makes that the #1 suspect. Switch is bad, or wiring to it is broken somewhere.
The fact that cycling the kill switch is not resetting codes still makes that the #1 suspect. Switch is bad, or wiring to it is broken somewhere.
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ionbeam
2 FUN
Sometimes terms get confusing. mcatrophy and I used the exact FSM term "Starting Cut-off Relay" but we meant the same interlock circuit as you mention.
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