HID problem

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Fitjer

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Location
Co. Mayo, Ireland
I got an '04 a few weeks ago with HID lights(35w 6k). The right came on occasionally while the left worked OK. I was also given a spare bulb/ballast etc by the PO. After a complete re-installation and many attempts at switching components I have the right one working and the left flashes once and does not light. Both came on together a few times while I was working on them and later refused to co-operate. The two sides are completely separate with no common parts at all. Any ideas on where I'm going wrong?

 
I got an '04 a few weeks ago with HID lights(35w 6k). The right came on occasionally while the left worked OK. I was also given a spare bulb/ballast etc by the PO. After a complete re-installation and many attempts at switching components I have the right one working and the left flashes once and does not light. Both came on together a few times while I was working on them and later refused to co-operate. The two sides are completely separate with no common parts at all. Any ideas on where I'm going wrong?
Two things to check:

1) Verify all grounds are ROCK SOLID. A faulty ground will defeat an HID setup (ask me how I know)

2) When one of my HID bulbs failed, it acted like yours for a while. Try switching the blinking capsule if you've not tried that already.

 
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You may also have voltage issues. The lights automatically come on when you start the bike, but the battery just had a substantial draw on it. If possible disconnect the power wire and start the bike, after its running connect the power back up and see if they both light. How old is the battery. what else do you have drawing on the electric system?

 
@BMWHD : Grounds checked out with ohmeter

@D.C. Few months battery; I think all bulbs are good, No extra draw except small lights in corner of H.L.

Tonight I'll put them in my single lighted '93 ZZR1100(ZX11) and see what happens. I'll update if I have a eureka moment :yahoo: .

 
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@BMWHD : Grounds checked out with ohmeter

Unfortunately checking ground connections using an Ohm meter will only tell you if the connection is “connected” to ground. It won’t verify how good the connection is. The ballasts for you HID lights probably draw at least 6 amps each so if you have a common ground for both it need to be able to deal with 12 amps.

You need to do a voltage drop test to verify that the ground(s) are OK. Here’s how. Connect the black lead of a DVOM meter directly to the battery ground terminal. Connect the red lead to where the HID ground wire is connected to the motorcycle (frame, engine, battery whatever).

Set the DVOM to read volts on the 2 volt scale unless it’s an autoranging meter. Start the engine and check for voltage. A good ground should read less than 0.2 volts—maybe 0.3 volts if the HID use a common ground.

If the voltage is higher that that you have a poor ground. Clean the connection—use larger wire—ground the HID circuit directly to the battery. Good luck. Tracy…
 
Yes, I had already thought of extending the earth to the battery just in case. I'll do that tomorow.

No luck with the ZX. I almost set it on fire :fire: Blew the 10 amp fuse twice, put in a 30 and got smoke from the relay. Hopefully this is just cheap junk and I'll get decent gear in a while. So for now it looks like I'll have one HID and one filament. It'll look like a bike version of Jack Elam. :D

Thanks for your suggestions.

 
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A 35 watt QUALITY ballast pulls more than 16 amps during ignition. I can only imagine how much a cheap Chinese ballast would draw. Blowing a 30 amp fuse on a pair of 35 watt D2S (or equivalent) bulbs is to be expected.

Next time you buy HID bulbs, buy 3200K - 6K is pushing too far into the blues - your vision is impacted somewhat at the higher color temps..

 
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A 35 watt QUALITY ballast pulls more than 16 amps during ignition. I can only imagine how much a cheap Chinese ballast would draw. Blowing a 30 amp fuse on a pair of 35 watt D2S (or equivalent) bulbs is to be expected.

I've had my cheep Chinese HID/Ballast (35w) for a year and have never blown the 15 amp fuse that protect both ballast. Also, the lights work every time.
 
I have 3 sets of ballast+bulb+relay. I got one set working and then methodically substituted each of the other six parts to determine if it was OK or not.

Result was:

One ballast gone

One ballast intermittent

One bulb gone

It looks like one new ballast will get me sorted. :good:

Thanks for the input guys.

 
A 35 watt QUALITY ballast pulls more than 16 amps during ignition. I can only imagine how much a cheap Chinese ballast would draw. Blowing a 30 amp fuse on a pair of 35 watt D2S (or equivalent) bulbs is to be expected.
Next time you buy HID bulbs, buy 3200K - 6K is pushing too far into the blues - your vision is impacted somewhat at the higher color temps..
While what you say is certainly true, for me the value of the 6K during the day outweighs the small loss of nighttime vision. Keeping left-turning cages off me is job one for my HIDs.

YMMV of course.

 
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