Highway Peg Scraping question

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Richouse

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I have a set of highway pegs like SkooterG has here: https://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.php?showtopic=17150 (the bottom 2 pictures are still there)

My question is: Which will scrape first in a hard turn IF the highway pegs are FOLDED Up, the OEM pegs or the highway peg posts? I am very cautious about going too far over because I am afraid to test this. If the post touches pavement first it will not fold up like the peg will and could cause a very bad day.

Thanks.

 
Some will say they ride hard and have never had a problem, others will say they had them scrape and they immediately took them off. What nobody seems to ask is "how much do you weigh" and "what suspension are you running"? The level at which you compress the suspension will have a major roll in whether or not you scrap the bracket (as well as how hard you ride). I was not willing to take the chance. Plus, I weight 250lbs and ride stock suspension.

 
I weigh about 195 and have the stock suspension. I have it set a little stiffer than stock and set the rear to hard when in the twisties. It stays on soft while slab riding.

I went out and took some measurements with the bike on the side stand. I measured from the ground to both pegs and compared the two. I realize that with me on the bike and the forces of going around a curve will compress the suspension and make the measurements less. What shouldn't change that much is the ratio between the two distances. i.e.. the highway pegs are approx. 1/4" higher than the stock pegs. Since neither pegs move on the frame that 1/4" difference should not change and yield the OEM pegs touching first but not by much.

Now what CAN change that ratio is hard breaking. As the bike dives forward during hard breaking entering a turn I can see that 1/4" being eaten up quick.

Therefore I would like some people to speak up that have the highway pegs.

I have read a post on here where a peg (supposedly) touched down and caused an accident. It didn't say what kind of peg was on it but it did say they were DOWN. My original question is them touching with them folded UP...

 
It wouldn't matter if the pegs were up or down. The highway pegs are hinged, just like the stock footpegs. The "hard" part is the stub where the pivot is. I've never touched my highway peg OR the post it's on, and I value the ability to change my foot position very highly. Maybe I don't ride as hard as some, but I have touched a peg occasionally (the stock pegs). I don't like it much, either--it's always an unwelcome surprise. That's probably why I don't do it much.

You could always try putting a piece of plywood against your tires and raise it till it touches something, as a guide. See how the two points (stock and highway peg) compare. Easier than laying the bike over on its side to check the clearances, and might give you a clearer picture than taking measurements. I suspect the rider footpeg will touch first.

 
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I am in the 190lb range, suspension is set up nicely (Eiback front / Ohlins rear). When the old peg feelers were ground down to almost nothing, the highway peg mounts would drag. With new longer peg feelers, I have yet to touch down the highway peg mounts but give me some time with my new Avon tires.
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Canadian FJR

 
Maybe these pictures will help you out: My peg vibrated down even though I had it all the way up. Not a problem on the street, but on the track is a different story. With the highway pegs up, the normal pegs will scrape first. With the highway pegs down, the tips will scrape first. This is with a Penske shock raised to the max and the forks slid slightly in the upper triple tree, maybe 3/16 of an inch. Nothing to worry about. The highway pegs fold up when they hit, at least mine did.

Apr-25-2014-CLASS-Novice-Turn2back-CDE_0420-042514_zps4102f3d5.jpg


Apr-25-2014-CLASS-Novice-Turn2-CDE_0272-042514_zps7318c534.jpg


Apr-25-2014-CLASS-Novice-Turn2pan-CDE_0363-042514_zps3a4284d0.jpg


 
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I had MCL highway pegs. I was dragging the mounts, but long after I would drag the rider pegs. I've also bumped my brake pedal and my center stand. I have race tech suspension up front and was still on my stock rear shock at that time. Before anyone yells, I was hanging off and using good technique. I'm around 235-240.

I am not afraid to lean her over though. The crazy runs deep in me. Just sayin.

 
I have touched the regular pegs before the brackets, with the highway pegs folded.

I don't think the highway pegs will move up if they touch. They hinge straight up, while the regular pegs pivot up and back. Actually, having lowsided with the pegs down, I can tell you for a fact that they don't fold on touching down, they bend themselves back, or bend the mounting bracket back, or some combination.

There was one rider (can't be bothered to do a search) a couple or three years ago who crashed, and blamed the crash squarely on the peg post.

 
GP Suspension fork kit, Ohlins rear, and Kuryakyn ISO foot pegs with extensions mounted on Wild Bill plates, with the hinge point close as possible to the mounting plates. They are mounted swept back, so they'll simply self-fold if I leave them down in the twisties. This gives me a "lean angle" indication. Over time the pegs have acquired a ground bevel that has gathered a comment or two in conversations.
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Thanks for all of the input. Those pics help a lot also. It looks like (as far as I can tell) I have the exact same pegs as he. If I was doing a track day I would take them off but I'm leaving Wednesday for the Smokeys. They will be used quite a bit on the trip over there but once we hit the mountains they will get folded up. They are mounted so they fold up and back. I will be riding with two other ST bikes and while we won't be on a track I want to be able to keep up without worrying about grinding the posts on the highway pegs. The other bikes are a Triumph Trophy 1200 and a BMW K1200GT. I'm not sure how those handle but neither has highway pegs to worry about.

 
I have a set also. I don't care if the movable part of the peg touches or not. The hard pivot stub is another matter. I am paranoid about that. They (the hard point) seem to touch about 1/2 to 3/4 inches AFTER the stock pegs starts. I ended up drilling a new hole about an inch higher in the aluminum mounting bracket. I also carved the mounting peg a bit so its terminus in no longer a 90 degree block but is about a 45. this gives me an extra 1/4 inch. I am still paraoid but it is better than anything else, except for just removing them.

edited for spelling

 
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I had MCL highway pegs. I was dragging the mounts, but long after I would drag the rider pegs. I've also bumped my brake pedal and my center stand. I have race tech suspension up front and was still on my stock rear shock at that time. Before anyone yells, I was hanging off and using good technique. I'm around 235-240.
I am not afraid to lean her over though. The crazy runs deep in me. Just sayin.
^^^^

Whata load!! He's actually like 340 before breakfast.

Then you have to add 16 pounds for all the burritos he eats before they toss his lard ass out.

 
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