Holeshot Header Experience

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I did not know that other companies would choke down the front connector tube of the slip-ons when produced.
This confuses me. I bought Staintune slip-ons (really like 'em) and the inlet size was the same as stock. All I did was slide the stock muffler off, put a new gasket on the Staintune, and slide it on. Simple and easy.

So there's 2 things I don't understand:

1. Why would a header be made with a different than stock size outlet? Can there be that much flow restriction by running the stock outlet size?

2. How does the exhaust system work properly without a gasket? Do you have to glue the mufflers on with some type of adhesive? If yes, can they still be removed easily for maintenance purposes?

In general, I guess I'd prefer a header product that allows the stock gasket to be fitted, unless there was some really big advantage to avoiding this. Perhaps this would also take care of the brand-x slip ons, which I would imagine were designed to work with the stock header outlet size.

 
Some have the original size and configuration, and require the gasket,while some (as in mine) eliminate the gasket and reduce the pipe inlet size to that of the header outlet. Your Staintunes should hook right up with no problem, minus the seals.

 
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If your slip-ons use the stock Yamaha gaskets , then they will in fact work with my header system.

You will chuck the gaskets and go metal to metal getting more flow...and a tighter install.

All you do is apply a light even coat of the Permatext Ultra Copper high temp i sell, to the inside surface of your slip-ons mid pipes , where they will slide over my header tubes.

This actually is much better than the gasket that crushes over time.

You will in fact need to hand lap and maybe sand a small amout of my coating off the very end of my header tubes to get a perfect fit.

I do this on purpose

Cheers Dale

 
All you do is apply a light even coat of the Permatext Ultra Copper high temp i sell, to the inside surface of your slip-ons mid pipes , where they will slide over my header tubes.
Okay I get it. One more question tho - is the Permatex stuff a sealer/adhesive? Or is it sorta like an anti-sieze compound? I'm just trying to figure out what would happen if I had to remove one of the mufflers sometime after installing with the Permatex, for maintenance access reasons, damage, or whatever.

 
It's an ultra high temp silicone adhesive that will easily remove.

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Will actually aid in installation by acting as a lubricant, the properties of which TWN can attest to as well as it's many, ah, unusual uses.... :blink:

 
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True, dat. Rad didn't even flinch the last time. But sadly, he reports that through further personal testing, his gerbil is allergic to the copper additive. ;)

 
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Can't get 'enuff of dat TDub luv...........

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[1] and the heat since they tend to run about 300°F or more to do their job.
Which is to reduce pollutant emissions, right? Living in one of the worst air basins in the country, I can't in any kind of conscience modify my bike so it pollutes like one 30 years old, midrange punch or not. I'm already out of bounds (legally) by buying an out-of-state bike (no charcoal canister). It's already quick enough and loud enough for me. YMMV, coming from a squid who still runs a stock suspension.
Hey, that's a good excuse for me to save the money!

BTW: I'm happy with my stock suspension too. I have no doubt I'd be happier with a Wilbers, or Ohlins...but why mess with happiness ;-)

 
Hi guys

Seems all is well with the pipe, and im getting good reports back form a few about my map and performance.

I will be starting from scratch on making 30 header tubes up and make 15 the next run.

This will be at least 30 to 50 days away

I have 4 made and they will be going to coating soon for a handful that have orders now.

Thanks much and ride safe

Dale :rolleyes:

 
We're all waiting for some real hard figures.... H.P. before and after. How bot some sound clips???? I'm sure you'd sell a few if ............ya did.

ZZZzz

 
Its not all about horsepower on a bike like this. HP gains are minimal but the overall performance on theis bike with both the cans and header with the PC map really makes it all worth while. Not to mention helping the heat issue. With all the positive feed back from these sites and Dale's reputation these will sell. Oh yes these will sell.

 
Hey Fast

I wont have real dyno charts for sometime that mean the real deal. I will need a low mileage bike here that wants my pipe installed , then i can do it from start to finish and have the charts at that time.

When I cant tell you, but i can tell you its 6 to 9 hp with nice mid range

Did not even care about that when i designed this system, i knew it would make more few more beans. My main intent was to reduce heat on the rider as well as in the exhaust ports.

Has to help the valve train a bit i would think

Im working on my web page at this time

Cheers Dale

:D

 
ok so hear me out i have blue flame cans with no gasket . so dales pipe will not work ? dales map ? i have zero idea what has to be done to get the map in the fjr ...... help

 
ok so hear me out i have blue flame cans with no gasket . so dales pipe will not work ? dales map ? i have zero idea what has to be done to get the map in the fjr ...... help
The Flames WILL NOT FIT THE HEADER . You will have the same problem I had with my D&D's, too small an inside diameter to fit over the header outlet. The Map he speaks of is for the Dynojet Power Commander only, it is a fuel mapping program for use with his header and exhaust system-it is not adaptable to the FJR computer.

 
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