Holeshot Header Experience

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Well with work and everything else I have going on lately I've had about an hour a week to work on my FJR, so 3-4 hours would be 3-4 weeks! :(
Bummer. If you weren't all the way on the other side of the country, I'd come over and help. Sounds like alot of cool projects. Good luck.

 
I need to get it all done and totally debugged before the Utah 1088 in June.
Sounds like this would be a good time to buy stock in WD-40 and 3M Adhesives Division - guess I better find a broker quick!! :haha:

 
I need to get it all done and totally debugged before the Utah 1088 in June.
Sounds like this would be a good time to buy stock in WD-40 and 3M Adhesives Division - guess I better find a broker quick!! :haha:
Re-Finance your house if you need to! :bleh: :p :bleh: :bleh: :p :bleh:

 
Two things:

1. For crying out loud, when are we going to see a picture of this dang thang?

2. Here is the PCIII USB video for cylinder trim. Does anyone actually have this option enabled or available? Clicky click clicker

Honestly, and no offense to Dale or anyone, but if the PCIII allows for per-cylinder tuning, I think it is a mistake not to include sniffing ports on the header. If it does not, then I am tasting the shoe leather...

-BD

 
I too asked right off the bat about the rivnuts and individual tuning. This is very interesting. This should be resovled by those in the know.

I mean, I read Dale's response and true we're not racing here but being certain that it's tuned perfectly when all the soft/hardware is readily available is a reasonable pursuit. Soooo....

If it costs more for the rivnut install during production then that's fine. But what about after the fact?? What about the ceramic coating? What about the warranty? OK, say it goes back to Holeshot. Now there's round trip shipping to consider. And would it need to be recoated?

I'm gonna go out on a limb here because I have no expertise, and if this is possible I would probably choose to do it this way. No one has seen a pic but the header is a 4into2 unit w/ a mid section piece. With just the headers on the bike can you take an accurate reading by inserting the sensor up into the individual down pipes??

 
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Well, it's obviously there, just no need to install or set it up since I had no access to individual cylinders. On the other hand, DW is kinda knowledgeable on this stuff. If he thinks there is little or nothing to be gained by it, except if super tuning for racing (and I understand this, race tuning can often involve a check/reset before every pass, to allow for humidity and/or engine temp/condition), then I'll take his word for it.

 
... not to mention altitude. But in spite of all my verbage I totally agree w/ Radman. If any potential difference is immeasurable or numerically insignificant then I would never even mess with it.

 
FJR Owners Website » FJR Technical Chat » Cat Extract » Archive through May 14, 2005. whats the difference if we just did the cat removal ourselfs ?Author Message

skyway

Farkle Trainee

Username: skyway

Post Number: 110

Registered: 09-2004

Posted on Saturday, May 14, 2005 - 04:34 pm:

 
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IIRC there have been a few to remove the cats. But then there is some pieces to install and welding to do and fitting etc. Most of us are unable to do all required to remove tne cats. But Dale's header does all this for us and ceramic coats the header to help reduce even more heat.

 
I was in the process of doing a catectomy on Frank when news of the header surfaced, again. After half a dozen dashed hopes, this time it was for real :p Caught me just as I had rounded up the materials needed to do some stainless welding-pipe was coming off after I had the Wilbers installed-tonight . To say this was timely would be an understatement bar none.......... :D

 
I have some pics of the install and just about done w/ a step by step instructions(would have been done except the blizzard...). Hope to post soon although have no idea how to post pics here, hopefully a bit of help and I'll be able to.

As far as pics, just visualize the factory system in 2 pieces minus the cats underneith. Thats about it.

Again, the trick if you don't want to undo the radiator hoses, use the Craftsman 8mm 3/8 hex socket. (note: I specified the Craftsman brand hex socket because it is a bit shorter in length than other brands as I have several and you need a short one to fit in the space available, not because Bob Vila is my hero) Slide the 8mm Gearwrench onto the hex before inserting it into the retaining nut and you'll be able to remove and install the middle two retaining nuts for the exhaust flange. Cover the rad w/ cardboard to avoid damage and put masking tape on the header pipes to prevent damaging the ceramic coating and your pretty much there.

 
yamahlr - Re: posting pics. Go to this thread: Posting Photos

If you still can't figure it out, PM me. If all else fails, you can email me the photos and I will take care of it.

 
You guys get any shipping info or tracking info or did it just magically show up one day?

 
Dale responded to my (our) pressing question about individual cylinder CO tweaking (with or without rivnuts I asked) and he reiterated that it's a waste of time on a street bike and that there's truly nothing measurable to gain above and beyond what his custom map provides.

We can call one of his girls today and get a tracking #. He just didn't have it to give to me last night. They will be closing on Wednesday and will reopen Tuesday. I'm guessing mine will be here today.

 
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Minor question:

Won't removing the 5lb "brick" off the very bottom of the bike raise the center of gravity on an already top-heavy bike?

 
Top heavy? Man I never noticed it was top heavy. oops I guess by changing my aftermarket pipes I screwed up by deleting almost the same amount of weight. But good thing is I gained 7 lb's to compensate.

 
5 lbs is inconsequential. And I don't consider the FJR top heavy at all. I guess it depends on what you use as a reference.

 
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