How fast & smooth does the AE shift ?

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Star guy.. political bashing is not permitted... shoulda seen this place a year ago !!


What's the matter with you goffie SOBs? I can't even make a little joke without all of you going ballistic.....Besides, my 4th grade teacher used to tell us....THE GUILTY DOG ALWAYS BARKS.....and it obviously still holds true till this day...
Now go BARK AT YOUR WIFE or something!!!!

Highlander said it well. Have you read the Forum Guidelines? Particulary #2?

 
Star guy.. political bashing is not permitted... shoulda seen this place a year ago !!


What's the matter with you goffie SOBs? I can't even make a little joke without all of you going ballistic.....Besides, my 4th grade teacher used to tell us....THE GUILTY DOG ALWAYS BARKS.....and it obviously still holds true till this day...
Now go BARK AT YOUR WIFE or something!!!!

Highlander said it well. Have you read the Forum Guidelines? Particulary #2?
And lets not forget HOMELAND SECURITY IS MONITORING ALL OF US in case we break a rule.

NOW, EVERYONE LINE UP IN A LINE, SINGLE FILE, AND WALK TOWARDS THE BARN!!!!It's time for you to be milked.

 
Skooter, I remember that thread about gears well and looking back at the situation, once moving in 3rd gear, all was well and shifting from then on was good.

As I looked further at the owner's manual on the same page same (5-3) they make a statement under that bold print - that might have something to do with it not shifting back down. Says: "Note: ... *shifting up is impossible if the engine speed is too low and *shifting down is impossible if the engine speed is too high." So, after my brain was dis-engaged :blink: , the gear in 3rd, and the rpm's at <1300 at a standstill it would be impossible to shift. So, would the fix be to hit the kill switch and re-start the bike quickly?

 
And lets not forget HOMELAND SECURITY IS MONITORING ALL OF US in case we break a rule.
NOW, EVERYONE LINE UP IN A LINE, SINGLE FILE, AND WALK TOWARDS THE BARN!!!!It's time for you to be milked.

Say whatever you like. Play by the rules, or go play somewhere else.

Starcruiser - this is your last warning. Post on topic.

If you have any other ?????, feel free to PM me.

Skooter, I remember that thread about gears well and looking back at the situation, once moving in 3rd gear, all was well and shifting from then on was good.
As I looked further at the owner's manual on the same page same (5-3) they make a statement under that bold print - that might have something to do with it not shifting back down. Says: "Note: ... *shifting up is impossible if the engine speed is too low and *shifting down is impossible if the engine speed is too high." So, after my brain was dis-engaged :blink: , the gear in 3rd, and the rpm's at <1300 at a standstill it would be impossible to shift. So, would the fix be to hit the kill switch and re-start the bike quickly?
Good questions. You AE guys are breaking new ground here. From my understanding of how everything works, I thought the AE would have been the same as the A in that downshifting while stopped would have been very hard - almost impossible.

So I don't know what's going on with the AE.

 
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If we're both hitting the RED, I don't think so.........
No, I meant if we are both at 9000 in 2nd and then you shift into 3 then 4 real fast, and I only shift into 3, I will pass you. You will have lower RPMS, I'm talking 3rd vs 4th at the same relative speed.

Anyway.......

 
Rottie I think he's thinking he can shift from 2nd to redline then 3rd to redline before you can shift from 2nd to redline then to 3rd. Thats the way I understand it.

 
A little off target to what your discussing and having only done 2 trips of 20 miles each, I really don't qualify to assert any great knowledge at this time. BUT I have been shifting both with the throttle constant and also returning it to closed position between shifts trying to get a smooth shift. Seems like it shifts smoother with the thottle constant. I'm talking city driving & on ramps to freeways not racing. Last night reading through the owner's manual, noticed in big bold print (pg 5-3) "*always return the throttle to the closed position while changing gears to avoid damaging the engine, transmission, and drive train, which are not designed to withstand the shock of forced shifting."
I was coming to a stop at a light and had forgot to downshift into 1st. Looking at the shift number on the display, it was reading 3rd gear so immediately started trying to downshift to 1st before the light turned green but it wouldn't do anything either w/ the hand shifter or shift pedal. I proceeded a 3rd gear take off which wasn't the greatest thing to do but it got me going and, since then, hasn't done it again. If it is in 3rd gear at a stand still, isn't there a way to shift back into 1st or was it possibly just a computer glitch? (probably human error). Anyway, off for another day of enjoyable FJR action.

Just add a touch of throttle until you hear a slight click. Then shift down to first.

 
Just add a touch of throttle until you hear a slight click. Then shift down to first.
I agree with 06FJRAEPILOT. What is confusing everyone here is not a mechanical capability but a software glitch. I have recently put 600 miles on my AE and had that same problem only once when I decellerated rapidly from 60 to about 10 without downshifting and then tried to downshift after I slowed down. I was in 3rd and couldn't downshift until I gave a little throttle to engage the clutch again, and then I was instantly able to downshift to 1st. I think this certain order of events throws off the downshift protection built into the AE. I did not have the presence of mind to notice if I still had too much throttle at the time but I don't think so because adding throttle to engage the clutch gave me back control. <_<

Many times since I have slowed to 10mph or even a stop and downshifted from 3rd to 1st or even neutral with no problem.

 
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I was coming to a stop at a light and had forgot to downshift into 1st. Looking at the shift number on the display, it was reading 3rd gear so immediately started trying to downshift to 1st before the light turned green but it wouldn't do anything either w/ the hand shifter or shift pedal. I proceeded a 3rd gear take off which wasn't the greatest thing to do but it got me going and, since then, hasn't done it again. If it is in 3rd gear at a stand still, isn't there a way to shift back into 1st or was it possibly just a computer glitch? (probably human error). Anyway, off for another day of enjoyable FJR action.

Just add a touch of throttle until you hear a slight click. Then shift down to first.

October 12, 2006 from

SilverStreak

Here's what I do when ocassionally the AE will not downshift to 1st when stopped at a light:

Roll the bike back a few inches.

The electric shifter will then drop into 1st gear.

It's that simple.

Works every time.

copy_of_fjr1300ae_031.jpg


 
The AE may shift faster, but it will NEVER get off the line faster than a regular manual. All the rags agree - the AE is a net slower bike.

-BD

 
The AE may have Elektro-Magic shift, but it's trans is no different than the ones skoots have used for years. All bikes on occasion will refuse to down or upshift when at rest-the dogs are blocked from engaging, hence a little movement forward or back will allow them to align, and engage. The AE's Elektro-Magic clutch won't allow you to slightly engage to get a little movement without risking a launch, so it's a little tougher.

 
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The AE may have Elektro-Magic shift, but it's trans is no different than the ones skoots have used for years. All bikes on occasion will refuse to down or upshift when at rest-the dogs are blocked from engaging, hence a little movement forward or back will allow them to align, and engage. The AE's Elektro-Magic clutch won't allow you to slightly engage to get a little movement without risking a launch, so it's a little tougher.
You're exactly right. Mine does it too at times.

The AE may shift faster, but it will NEVER get off the line faster than a regular manual. All the rags agree - the AE is a net slower bike.
-BD
It's only slower from a standing start. Who cares about doing hole shots on an AE, anyway?

 
+1. Exactily what radman said. My "A" has trouble when stopped going from 4th, 3rd, etc. to 1st. So does my HD...PM. <>< :rolleyes:

 
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The AE may shift faster, but it will NEVER get off the line faster than a regular manual. All the rags agree - the AE is a net slower bike.
-BD
Actually the AE does shift quite quickly, and I am not convinced the slower time is caused by the launch. The problem is that the clutch reengagement speed at WFO is way too slow. I feel certain that this is where the lost 1/4 mile time is going. You can hear the motor rev as the clutch slowly reengages. I dont know if the programming will be changed in the future, but I suspect the problem may be that there is a maximum speed that the electric motor doing the work can reengage at. Being the proud owner of an AE :heart: I guarantee you I can outshift it in a dragrace without even trying hard. If you want to see fast shifting try riding something with an air shifter, or even with an electronic cutout that allows you to shift while holding the bike WFO. Instanfreakintaneous.

Roy

 
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The AE may shift faster, but it will NEVER get off the line faster than a regular manual. All the rags agree - the AE is a net slower bike.

-BD
Actually the AE does shift quite quickly, and I am not convinced the slower time is caused by the launch. The problem is that the clutch reengagement speed at WFO is way too slow. I feel certain that this is where the lost 1/4 mile time is going. You can hear the motor rev as the clutch slowly reengages. I dont know if the programming will be changed in the future, but I suspect the problem may be that there is a maximum speed that the electric motor doing the work can reengage at. Being the proud owner of an AE :heart: I guarantee you I can outshift it in a dragrace without even trying hard. If you want to see fast shifting try riding something with an air shifter, or even with an electronic cutout that allows you to shift while holding the bike WFO. Instanfreakintaneous.

Roy
I have little doubt that the off the line is slower on the AE. Once moving... I have been toying with making mine shift better by riding it different. In fact I did it this morning a little different and have found the following.

At normal (for me) leaving a light, I shift bout 4500 or less RPM (this is city driving) I just twitch ever so slightly my throttle closed, just the briefest instant before I hit the paddle. It shifts and engages so fast I challenge anyone to do it faster. With practice (and I am practicing) there is no perceivable movement in the bike

When leaving or accelerating harder (even to near or at redline) I still have to twitch the throttle ever so slightly, but a tad sooner and slightly more. Then once again the shift is instant and so is the clutch reengaging. Smooth as a baby but back on the gas no suspension movement at all. Both situations also depend on getting back on the gas instantly and just so to avoid nose dive as well

Now, I am not an expert with this bike. I only have 1200 or so miles in it but it can be done and I have to "spend a great deal of my 10.00 of attention) to do it. That is why I am practicing.

This does however bring up some thoughts for me for improving the bike.

Since all of the riding changes I am making involve twitching the throttle I think they could write a better algorithm for the computer taking into consideration the tings I have to think about while trying to make this motion second nature. I think they have sacrificed precision in less than optimum programming and made op for it with conservative clutch programming for slipping.

There may be many reasons for this based in testing that I am not aware of so this is a novices view but my 2cents none the less

My AE will never be able to compete with an experienced rider on a clutched bike. But for me, my bike is fast enough and I love it, no one has passed me yet. I wanna go faster, I will buy a different bike that is more capable in that area.

 
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The AE I test rode does not shift as fast as I can manually shift my A. It must be all of those years of experience or perhaps the AE just kills the ignition one nano second too long.

 
The AE I test rode does not shift as fast as I can manually shift my A. It must be all of those years of experience or perhaps the AE just kills the ignition one nano second too long.
That is kinda what I mean. But for me it seems to kill it a nanosecond not long enough and compensates with clutch slippage before full lockup. That is where it is lost on my machine anyway. Other machines could be different. I only have my machine to go by and I am sure each is a tad different. But by working with my bike I can make it shift faster if I try to make up for its shortcomings by being proactive during the shifting process rather than passive and letting the bike do it all

 
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The AE I test rode does not shift as fast as I can manually shift my A. It must be all of those years of experience or perhaps the AE just kills the ignition one nano second too long.
Have you tried setting up any experiments? And, if so, did you use a "totally control environment", whatever the hell that is?

Detailed Technical Analysis of FJRAE Shifting

 
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I think we have to define what is meant by a quick shift. If you are just tooling around town, clicking off shifts, then yes the AE is faster. You just dont work as hard as it does at a casual pace. But at WFO its not as quick (at least mine isnt) mainly due to clutch slippage.

AFAIK the AE does not kill the ignition at all. Just hold it open and hit the shift button once and you will find that out. Although this would be the perfect solution for qick WFO shifting. If it didnt use the clutch at all at say 75% throttle and above but instead killed the ignition for a millisecond and shifted. It would enable lightning fast WFO shift, smooth shifts using the clutch at low RPM, plus save wear and tear on the clutch and engagement mechanism.

Roy

 
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