davidsbmw
Member
Can anyone please tell me ,approx how long will it take me to change the spark plugs for the first time. I have read the procedure many times from the fjrtech site, but would like an idea of the time involved. Thanks in advance.
How much time to change plugs
- Thread starter davidsbmw
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Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
Jagermeister
Well-known member
It takes me less than 5 minutes per plug, once the tank is up. Probably a 45 minute job total, if it's your first time.
davidsbmw
Member
Silent
Who said FJR's don't do dirt?
Give it an hour since you're not familiar. Once you know what you're doing it can be done in about 20 min.
cadman
Well-known member
i have done it twice, start to finish, an hour is just about right.
take your time, and invest in a plug wire puller..
cadman
take your time, and invest in a plug wire puller..
cadman
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
True Dat. Those beotches CAN be in there mighty tight! And you DON'T want to pull on the wire to get the plug caps out.
DeweyIsgod
Well-known member
I bought an extended length plug socket. My regular one kept either coming off the extension or dropping the plug as I tried to pull it out. The one in the FJR tool kit may work better though. Ratcheting tie-downs make propping up the tank easy. Unlike the rope in some of the instructions, you can adjust the tank height easier.
I'd allow an hour your first time having the tank up. I'm guessing I could do it in 20 minutes the second time.
Are you doing the throttle body sync at the same time? By the time you've raised the tank, you've already done 90% of the work for that procedure.
I'd allow an hour your first time having the tank up. I'm guessing I could do it in 20 minutes the second time.
Are you doing the throttle body sync at the same time? By the time you've raised the tank, you've already done 90% of the work for that procedure.
03HiYoSilver
Well-known member
If your socket keeps slipping off the plugs try this:
Put a Small Strip of Duct tape from the Outside wll the Socket and wrap into the Inside.
This will put enough tension on the Plug to keep it from releasing as you pull it out.
Just make sure you don't drop anything down the plug holes and I use just a little bit of Copper Anti-Sieze on the Spark Plugs threads.
Good Luck with you repair.
Put a Small Strip of Duct tape from the Outside wll the Socket and wrap into the Inside.
This will put enough tension on the Plug to keep it from releasing as you pull it out.
Just make sure you don't drop anything down the plug holes and I use just a little bit of Copper Anti-Sieze on the Spark Plugs threads.
Good Luck with you repair.
Nightshift
Well-known member
For first time, allow yourself a 2 hr block of time. If you don't pay attention to what you are doing you could end up breaking something and having the bike towed to the shop. Many hundreds of dollars later you would get your bike back. The first time you lift off the gastank its like looking at the insides of a space shuttle assembly....so go slow. That was my feeling anyhow, but I got the plugs changed without screwing it up.
Bugnatr
Well-known member
+ another hour if you have a 6 pack
wfooshee
O, Woe is me!!
A magnet stick, like for retrieving dropped hardware, gets the plugs out if your socket won't. I have one of those telescoping doodads with a mirror on one end and a magnet on the other.
As for the wires, twist the boot to "break" any stickyness, then lift by the boot, not the wire. I've never had any problem.
As for the wires, twist the boot to "break" any stickyness, then lift by the boot, not the wire. I've never had any problem.
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wa2fst
Active member
An easier way, and a sure way to keep plugs from falling out of the socket and dropping back into the plug hole...loosen the plug with the socket, then use a short 8" length of rubber hose to slip over the top of the porcelain portion of the plug and pull it out. Also easy to use to re-insert...no way to cross thread anything as the rubber slips on the plug if it's not in the threaded hole properly. No worries about magnetic plug holders, rubber inserts in the plug socket coming loose and sticking on the top of the plug...easy. If anyone's interest I can post pictures to further clarify. :clapping:
cadman
Well-known member
i had to wedge a small piece of folded paper between the rubber and the metal to help my old plug socket...this is a great idea, thanks for sharing!
cadman
Jagermeister
Well-known member
Needle-Nose Pliers are your friend.
stellarsteve
Well-known member
Yea, tell that to the factory. They left a rubber insert on one of mine and it took me an hour just to get that little bastard off.
davidsbmw
Member
After asking for help last night (sat),with the best of intentions to do the plugs this morning, I failed. Nothing to do with the bike, but a large load of fecal matter impacted a very small rotating device, causing the device to stall. Will try again soon.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Auburn
Well-known member
Don't forget to blow all the crap off before pulling the plug caps, and then again to get all the crap out around the plugs. It is amazing how much stuff can build up in there. The best tool for the plugs is the plug wrench in the bike's tool kit and use a socket wrench to turn it. Think about putting some anti-sieze on the threads before putting back. Check the gaps, I put in a set of irdiums for another recently that need adjustment to get them correct.
Take your time, give your self a couple of hours so you are not rushed. If you don't have a manual, get one. Good to get the correct torques for various pieces. Also, when you get ready to tip up the tank, loosen the bottom bolt under the back of the tank that goes across to lock it in first. Then loosen the top bolts (make sure you have a good fitting allen wrench) When you put it back down, put some anti-seize on the threads. You will need to push the tank forward to get it to line up when installing the bolts. The re-tighten the bottom bolt.
Have fun!
Take your time, give your self a couple of hours so you are not rushed. If you don't have a manual, get one. Good to get the correct torques for various pieces. Also, when you get ready to tip up the tank, loosen the bottom bolt under the back of the tank that goes across to lock it in first. Then loosen the top bolts (make sure you have a good fitting allen wrench) When you put it back down, put some anti-seize on the threads. You will need to push the tank forward to get it to line up when installing the bolts. The re-tighten the bottom bolt.
Have fun!
Patriot
Isabella is Lazarus
All my Iridiums were gapped fine for my bikes and needed no gapping by moi - they are real fragile and it's best not to gap them if they are right which they were for my Feejer (and all other bikes I've put them in).
I use "anti seize" on the new plug threads and some "dielectric or silicon grease" inside the boots to make both easy to come out next time. Iridium (NGK) plugs are considered superior (I use them exclusive) for hotter spark using less electric power from the coils, and much longer life - easily 4 or 5 times the life of stock/regular plugs. I found Advance Auto now sells the NGK Iridiums by 4 number stock number, and also small tubes of anti-sieze & dielectric grease.
My plug sockets have either a rubber plug to grab the plug and pull them out or instead of rubber, real dense sponge rubber which is softer and works just as good.
Best of luck
let's ride safe and be careful out there,
Mike in Nawlins'
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Bogus
Well-known member
I have a eye bolt screwed into the ceiling of my garage that I line up with the front of the tank with the bike on the centerstand. Then I use a nylon tie down strap to lift the tank and unhook the elec. connections to the tank, remove the heat shield, and the t-bar. Then I removed the rear bolt on the tank and slid it backwards on the frame a bit with the front elevated with said tie down strap. It gives you a lot more room to maneuver in there when changing plugs. I also did the PAIR removal which gets rid of a lot of plumbing to work around.
VERY IMPORTANT!! Make sure to re-tighten the rear tank bolt when buttoning back up again! I forgot this step the last time I had the tank up, but fortunately found it lying on the inside of the plastic tank trim the next time I had the tank up. Made a mental note not to do this again........then did the same thing again! (Getting old and forgetful is HELL!). Not so lucky this time. Nut went missing and had to get a new metric flange head nut from Ace Hardware for $1.19!! (Mental note #2: do not do this again, again.)
VERY IMPORTANT!! Make sure to re-tighten the rear tank bolt when buttoning back up again! I forgot this step the last time I had the tank up, but fortunately found it lying on the inside of the plastic tank trim the next time I had the tank up. Made a mental note not to do this again........then did the same thing again! (Getting old and forgetful is HELL!). Not so lucky this time. Nut went missing and had to get a new metric flange head nut from Ace Hardware for $1.19!! (Mental note #2: do not do this again, again.)
