how to make the AE default to hand shift.....

[85turbo]

@djsmith1000

have you tested it in the following ways ?

1 start the engine before the system self arms, and

2 start the engine after the system arms ?

the reason i ask, is that my first prototype would sometimes

turn itself back off again after the engine was started.

didnt take me long to figure out where i went wrong.

i took the power for the circuit from the license plate light.

i figured this was a good enough ignition switched power supply.

i was wrong. the lic plate power wire will sometimes go "cold" when

cranking the engine. this made the timer go through a second cycle.

this in turn would turn the AE system back off.

i have now solved that issue, by powering the circuit from a ignition

switched wire that stays "hot" even while cranking the engine.

dj, even if you go ahead with your version, im still gonna muck about with mine.

who knows, i might learn something along the way ?

jason.

 

[Rickster]

that is truely awesome that you've found a way to default the trigger on.

I have been questioning why Yamaha made it switched to begin with... I still can't figure out why they went to the trouble of making you enable it. Wouldn't it have been easier to parallel the foot and trigger switches electrically and skip the 'enable' button and indicator? They must have had a reason to do it, but I can't figure out why they went to the effort to make you push an enable button to turn on the trigger shifter.

I initially figured some legal safety liability -- but what? I still don't get it.

Thanks for finding a way to auto-enable it. Do either of you have a price/availability expectation?

FWIW djsmith1000 -- I would solder.

 

[85turbo]

no pricing yet, but both versions (mine and djs) should be very affordable.

the only thing i can think of why yamaha made it switched, is that once you push the button,

YOU are aware that you might accidenbtally put the bike into 1st gear while looking for the flasher,

or some similar movement near the bars....

just covering their asses, if you ask me.....

stay tuned people.

jason

 

[djsmith1000]

I have not done a start-stop test, but I am confident that it will work. When choosing the power source, I chose a feed that is critical for engine operation and also is well regulated. It should never shut off. I will be doing that kind of testing soon, however. I think kits for this will probably just be supplied with bare leads at first for soldering. Other options may be considered later.

 

[85turbo]

soldering is always the best option anyway.

the next best thing is probably the posi-tap joiner.

jason

 

[djsmith1000]

Did more testing and tweeking this afternoon, and I am satisfied with the design. Also, had another engineer look over the design and check out the bike schematics. Hopefully I can order parts tonight.

 

[Joe]

Will be very interested in this. Please let us know when it is ready.

Thanks in advance, Joe

 

[djsmith1000]

Update:

Parts are in so, pending final layout, assembly, and testing, which will take a few days, they should be available. Estimated time until i am accepting orders: one week. No promises on that though because my schedule is horrendous right now.

Dan

 

[Rickster]

are you going to post a schematic of the circuit and how it ties into the FJR?

 

[djsmith1000]

I will post a functional diagram and installation instructions, (probably not schematics) when I have time. Hopefully within a couple days.

 

[djsmith1000]

The final layout is complete and tested. You can now place your order and it should be built up and shipped next week (assuming I can keep up with demand and my encapsulation compound comes in). The cost is $50 +$5 S&H. Not sure how the forum handles this stuff, so just PM or email me to order one. For now, I will probably just be taking Paypal, so I need your email address and shipping address. If paying this way is a problem, let me know.

And I have installation instructions ready in PDF format. How do I post a PDF?

Circuit details:

The device is very small, roughly the size of a quarter and less than 1/2 in thick so it can be tucked anywhere. It will be encapsulated, so should be impervious to the elements. Each circuit is individually tested. A functional block diagram can be found here...

https://picasaweb.google.com/danielsmith1/H...952046387403858

 

[skifrik]

I'm interested

 

[djsmith1000]

Here are the installation instructions and further details. Note that this link is to my home computer and it may not work all the time, but should be up most of the time. If someone has a better hosting suggestion, please let me know.

https://dansmith.dynalias.com/Handshift_AutoEn_Install.pdf

 

[Constant Mesh]

One can use a simple two pole relay ($7) and a diode or two to accomplish this task. When the starter motor contactor pulls in the new relay also pulls in and seals in. When the relay pulls in a contact closure actuates the hand shifting circuitry. After the engine starts and the headlights come on the relay drops out. The relay can't be pulled in again until the headlights go out -- when the ignition is switched off.

If the engine doesn't start for the first press of the button -- no problem. The relay seals in during the first start attempt and stays sealed in until the engine starts -- headlights come on.

 

[doit]

The final layout is complete and tested. You can now place your order and it should be built up and shipped next week (assuming I can keep up with demand and my encapsulation compound comes in). The cost is $50 +$5 S&H. Not sure how the forum handles this stuff, so just PM or email me to order one. For now, I will probably just be taking Paypal, so I need your email address and shipping address. If paying this way is a problem, let me know.
And I have installation instructions ready in PDF format. How do I post a PDF?

Circuit details:

The device is very small, roughly the size of a quarter and less than 1/2 in thick so it can be tucked anywhere. It will be encapsulated, so should be impervious to the elements. Each circuit is individually tested. A functional block diagram can be found here...

https://picasaweb.google.com/danielsmith1/H...952046387403858

Would you be able to ship to Australia, if so what would the postage be?

Well done, I am also presuming the little box stay's under the seat.

 

[djsmith1000]

Would you be able to ship to Australia, if so what would the postage be?Well done, I am also presuming the little box stay's under the seat.

I will ship to australia. The USPS website seemed to indicate about $10 US to ship there within a reasonable amount of time, but actual rates may vary depending on size, weight, etc., and I dont know if they will tack on any service charges or anything. If you want, you can send payment for S&H separately when I find out actual cost.

edit - and yes, the device is very small, and can be left under the seat.

 

[Flyguy]

I'm interested. Keep me in the loop.

 

[Rickster]

Can you post pictures of the device and what it looks like mounted under the seat?

How big is it? Is it waterproof?

 

[djsmith1000]

Can you post pictures of the device and what it looks like mounted under the seat?
How big is it? Is it waterproof?

It is very small. It should be waterproof since it is encapsulated in a special polyurethane based potting compound. Here is a pic of it next to a quarter.

Here is a picture of my install. Note that I have installed connectors (taped up on the left) that are not required. I installed these so I could quickly test different prototypes without resoldering the wires into the harness. So my installation looks very messy. The device is sitting right below the connector on the right. It is very small and therefore can be tucked basically anywhere in the tray.

Reminder: To order, PM/email me with paypal email address and shipping address. Cost $50+$5 S&H.