How to put the Yamaha touring trunk to good use

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Well cool I'm glad there are alot of idea's coming from this. Thanks for all the positive comments from everyone. I thought this might be a useful mod to share with everyone.

Eric

 
Like your idea, I also like HauliAshe idea of cutting a thin piece of Plexiglas to the shap of the inside of the lid and using Velcro. Two very creative ideas, very good.

 
I went ahead and did this on one of my side cases. Just used some little plastic clips from the hardware store, about 14 cents each I think, and half-inch self-tapping screws. I used a standard little cargo net, guess like the OP did. The metal hooks were easy to pull off the bungee material; no bending or cutting needed. I didn't want to cut it down any so it wouldn't unravel, so I just let the extra material hang over on the inside. Not much to the job, once VTFJR13 came up with the idea. I think it will be a big improvement for keeping things from falling out when loading or unloading. Easily removed, if it doesn't work out. I'll do the other bag later, and the new top box I just ordered too.

Here's the hardware:

IMG_0549.jpg


Installed, empty:

IMG_0544.jpg


With a jacket liner inside. Not falling out. :) (If I want to later, I can just put some kind of a little hook up at the top to kind of close off the whole opening with the net, but I don't think it will be needed.) Thanks, VTFJR!

IMG_0545.jpg


 
Nice idea VTFJR13.

I just got back from a trip where I had to very carefully stack the stuff up inisde the trunk to get it to close. This is ideal.

 
Very nice job.

The main thing I hate about the side cases is everything falling out when you open them. You alway have to be ready to catch whaterver is in there. I plan on doing this to both the lid and base of the side cases.

I also like the idea of making these easily removeable, possibly using some kind of cable clip, threaded insert or anchor in the inner sidewall.

These would allow the clips to be easily removed and reinstalled with chewing up the plastic every time. Although I don't know how much space there is between the inner wall and the outside of the case.

rivetnut1.gif


rivetnut2.gif


rivetnut3.gif


These would stay in place, but wouild allow the bungee nets to be unclipped since they are open on one side.

cableclip3.gif


cableclip1.gif


I have aftermarket saddlebag liners, but have found them to be more of a pain in the neck than they are worth. You always have to tuck something in while closing the lid.

 
Has anyone done surgery on the lid inner plastic to create even more space in the "attic" without losing too much strength? Perhaps someone has a trashed tail box they wouldn't mind experimenting on. I know someone carved out some space for a light in the empty pointy area of the top, was in here someplace...

 
Well cool I'm glad there are alot of idea's coming from this. Thanks for all the positive comments from everyone. I thought this might be a useful mod to share with everyone.
Eric
Great tip! Just did mine last night in prep for a 5 day trip to Americade. This will be the first multi day trip with my wife, so any way to optimize storage capacity is welcomed. Thanks! :clapping:

 
Has anyone done surgery on the lid inner plastic to create even more space in the "attic" without losing too much strength? Perhaps someone has a trashed tail box they wouldn't mind experimenting on. I know someone carved out some space for a light in the empty pointy area of the top, was in here someplace...
I found a battery powered LED light with magnetic switch at the Local Harbor Freight for $3 (including batteries). I'm using it on the glove compartment up front so it turns on when I open it up and off when it's closed.

It would work on the topbox as well, without the need to cut anything up. It's only about 1" x 2" x 1/2" thick with a very small magnet w/ adhesive foam.

The magnet needs to be within about 1/2" or so of the light to make it turn off (the closer the better just to make sure).

Works great and hasn't vibrated loose yet.

 
After seeing the trunk lid idea, I completed my own this past weekend. I really wanted to use open-sided clips so I could easily remove it, but went with close-loop like the OP's instead. I'm not sure if I will ever remove it, and if I have to, it's a quick job. The bungee net I found looks to be about the same size, shape, and bungee gauge (a new standard?), but the grid spacing was smaller, so I was able to use 4 little plastic cable clamps along 3 sides, leaving the top loose. The net in its unstretched state was smaller than the trunk lid, so it stretches slightly when installed. This makes for a very nice fit, and the open side doesn't hang there limply (never a good thing). So far, it works beautifully. Sorry, no photos yet.

Thanks to the OP for giving me a simple, effective, easy-to-use solution for the only real problem with the Yamaha top box. Bravo!

 
After seeing the trunk lid idea, I completed my own this past weekend. I really wanted to use open-sided clips so I could easily remove it, but went with close-loop like the OP's instead. I'm not sure if I will ever remove it, and if I have to, it's a quick job. The bungee net I found looks to be about the same size, shape, and bungee gauge (a new standard?), but the grid spacing was smaller, so I was able to use 4 little plastic cable clamps along 3 sides, leaving the top loose. The net in its unstretched state was smaller than the trunk lid, so it stretches slightly when installed. This makes for a very nice fit, and the open side doesn't hang there limply (never a good thing). So far, it works beautifully. Sorry, no photos yet.
Thanks to the OP for giving me a simple, effective, easy-to-use solution for the only real problem with the Yamaha top box. Bravo!
is there a link to purchase the exact net you have

sounds perfect for this purpose

the one I had laying around is more open loop than I desire

TIA

let's ride safe and be careful out there,

Mike in Nawlins'

 
After seeing the trunk lid idea, I completed my own this past weekend. I really wanted to use open-sided clips so I could easily remove it, but went with close-loop like the OP's instead. I'm not sure if I will ever remove it, and if I have to, it's a quick job. The bungee net I found looks to be about the same size, shape, and bungee gauge (a new standard?), but the grid spacing was smaller, so I was able to use 4 little plastic cable clamps along 3 sides, leaving the top loose. The net in its unstretched state was smaller than the trunk lid, so it stretches slightly when installed. This makes for a very nice fit, and the open side doesn't hang there limply (never a good thing). So far, it works beautifully. Sorry, no photos yet.
Thanks to the OP for giving me a simple, effective, easy-to-use solution for the only real problem with the Yamaha top box. Bravo!
is there a link to purchase the exact net you have

sounds perfect for this purpose

the one I had laying around is more open loop than I desire

TIA

let's ride safe and be careful out there,

Mike in Nawlins'


I looked around at Wally World, Target, Menard's, and other places, but found it at a local Suzuki/Polaris dealer. He only had one there, for something like $10.95. Sorry, I tossed the packaging away, and I don't remember the manufacturer's name. I guess keep looking, and hopefully you get lucky like I did. I used #8 X 1/2" sheet metal screws with a lock washer under each head.

 
I went ahead and did this on one of my side cases. Just used some little plastic clips from the hardware store, about 14 cents each I think, and half-inch self-tapping screws. I used a standard little cargo net, guess like the OP did. The metal hooks were easy to pull off the bungee material; no bending or cutting needed. I didn't want to cut it down any so it wouldn't unravel, so I just let the extra material hang over on the inside. Not much to the job, once VTFJR13 came up with the idea. I think it will be a big improvement for keeping things from falling out when loading or unloading. Easily removed, if it doesn't work out. I'll do the other bag later, and the new top box I just ordered too.
Here's the hardware:

IMG_0549.jpg


Installed, empty:

IMG_0544.jpg


With a jacket liner inside. Not falling out. :) (If I want to later, I can just put some kind of a little hook up at the top to kind of close off the whole opening with the net, but I don't think it will be needed.) Thanks, VTFJR!

IMG_0545.jpg
well that sure does make the side cases more useful. I'm glad there are so many finding this simple idea so useful. Great job

Eric

 
Loved the original idea and did the same to my Shad40 CA trunk last weekend in preparation for a trip to NC this Sunday. The Shad isn't double layered like the Yammie trunk, but there is an inner lip arounf the perimeter with just enough meat for the screws and loops. Looks and works super!

Thanks for the idea.

 
After seeing the trunk lid idea, I completed my own this past weekend. I really wanted to use open-sided clips so I could easily remove it, but went with close-loop like the OP's instead. I'm not sure if I will ever remove it, and if I have to, it's a quick job. The bungee net I found looks to be about the same size, shape, and bungee gauge (a new standard?), but the grid spacing was smaller, so I was able to use 4 little plastic cable clamps along 3 sides, leaving the top loose. The net in its unstretched state was smaller than the trunk lid, so it stretches slightly when installed. This makes for a very nice fit, and the open side doesn't hang there limply (never a good thing). So far, it works beautifully. Sorry, no photos yet.
Thanks to the OP for giving me a simple, effective, easy-to-use solution for the only real problem with the Yamaha top box. Bravo!
is there a link to purchase the exact net you have

sounds perfect for this purpose

the one I had laying around is more open loop than I desire

TIA

let's ride safe and be careful out there,

Mike in Nawlins'

I just bought 6 motorcycle cargo nets from Harbor Freight (No- I don't work there, but do spend a lot of time there) for $3 each (on sale, normally $4) for the top and bottom of the top case and both sides of the saddlebags (lids and bases). Also bought more of the LED lights with magnetic switches (only $2.50 each!!).

Hopefully I'll be installing rivet nuts in the interior plastic shell of the topcase and saddlebags along with the cable clips for the bungee cargo nets. That way I can use machine screws to hold everything in place and only have to worry about attaching something to the plastic liner once. From then on it's all metal-on-metal, just the way I like it.

I looked around at Wally World, Target, Menard's, and other places, but found it at a local Suzuki/Polaris dealer. He only had one there, for something like $10.95. Sorry, I tossed the packaging away, and I don't remember the manufacturer's name. I guess keep looking, and hopefully you get lucky like I did. I used #8 X 1/2" sheet metal screws with a lock washer under each head.
 
Would it be worthwhile to use some silicone sealer on the screws to add some waterproofing to the holes created by the screws?

 
I finally got around to taking some photos. Here's a closeup of the screw and cable clamp. I used 4 per side (3 sides).

CableClamp1.jpg


Here's a closeup of the bottom (hinge side) corner.

CableClamp2.jpg


I needed a light-colored object behind the bungee netting so the bungee would be more visible. Hmmmmm, what's that on the wall above my workbench? That'll do.....

BungeeNet1.jpg


A closer look at the bungee net.....

BungeeCloseup.jpg


Hope these help.......

 
Using the OP's original great idea, I got some of these lightweight nets for Goldwing at https://wingstuff.com/pgroup_detail/11171_H...g%2F%3Fpage%3D2

They come with 4 wire hooks, that all you have to do is drill a small 7/64 hole in the inner wall where you would want the 4 corners, and hook them in. If you want to unhook the net, I "unbent" the loop of the hook that goes around the net so the metal hook stays in the drilled hole (more convenient). You could also add more hooks of bent wire. These will also hook where the OEM straps mount in the side cases, add one to the lids if you like.

These nets are a lighter and not quite as big, but they stretch just fine. Make sure you drill the holes far enough in from the edge of the lid (3/4"??) so that you do not compromise the foam seal. There is a sink mark all around the lid that gives you an idea where there is solid plastic behind it and above that it is hollow. Sorry I don't have a way to post pictures just yet.

 
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