Laquer thinner is the answer. Bought a used Italjet that someone sprayed the muffler without protecting the bike. Got spray paint all over engine and body work. Went to automotive paint shop and asked for their advice and was told to use the laquer thinner. Worked fantastic. Wipe vigorously with towel dampened in thinner and the overspray comes right off with no affect on the original paint. Wouln't have believed it if I hadn't seen it.
You got lucky. I have a little expertise in the area. (in the collision repair industry for 10+ years, taught for 10+ more) Laquer thinner is a very aggressive solvent. Laquer thinner comes in various grades and purities. Too many variables with the product, too many variables with the finish you are trying to clean. It is not worth the risk. There are other ways. If you must use a "thinner", then go with an enamel reducer from an auto supply store with a "fast" evaporation rate. But even then, I would only do when all other options had failed. Any type of solvent will try to attack your finish. That's what it does. How well it succeeds will depend on a whole truckload of variables including, but not limited to; type of finish, curing method of said finish, age of finish, condition of finish, oxidation of finish, mil thickness of finish, in direct sunlight or not, type of solvent, temperature range of solvent, maker of solvent, actual ingredients of solvent, time of contact of solvent, virgin vs. recycled solvent, etc.
Exhaust all other options first.
Back when Ford trucks were experiencing delamination and were being repaired under warranty, we used nothing more than laquer thinner to completely strip the finish in preparation for repainting. The problem was mil thickness. The finish left the factory thin. The ultraviolet rays were able to penetrate the topcoat and oxidize the e-coating, thus causing it to turn loose of the topcoat. Due to this mil thickness deficiency, it was subject to easy destruction by solvent.