How to replace 4 wire grip controller with 2 wire

[Sailandcrash]

My heated grip controller failed and I bought a replacement that has two wires and the Yamaha had 4 wires.

One brown, one black and two white.

One wire BROWN is 12+ from the battery and provides power to the new electronic controller.

The BLACK wire is 2.5 ohms to ground.

Two other white wires are open with no voltage and are open to ground and to one another.

They don't appear to go to the grips.

Got any ideas of how to get power to the grips? This is the factory heated grips on a 06 fjr.

Thanks fer your suggestions.

 

[dcarver]

I have no clue -

but thought I'd reply just to get your thread to the top o' the heap again, in hopes someone smart can answer... :lol:

 

[RaYzerman19]

I assume you had some indication of the original hookup before you removed the old one. Other assumption is brown powers the controller, black is common ground and the two whites go to each grip, which also should have a return wire for common ground.

As for your new two-wire controller, without seeing it, I don't know how it could work. You perhaps have power in, common power out to the grips and then there is a common ground for the grips grounded elsewhere. Didn't this thing come with instructions? Pictures??

 

[Sailandcrash]

yes, it came with a wiring diagram but it does not match the harness in the bike.I would assume the two small white wires go to the grips but I dont get a reading thru them or to ground with a mneter. Maybe come from the computer to lower the temp at idle?

Two twenty watt heaters in parrallel shuld be 40 watts devided by 12 is 3.3 amps, and that devided into 12 volts would by 3.6 ohms resistance to ground, the black wires shows about 2.5 ohms to ground, so I assume it is a ground and not a feed to the grip.

I assumed that was the hot feeding the grip but it blew a 5 amp fuse when I hooked it up.

Are the two small white wires the ones that turn down the heat at idle/slow speed?

I assumed they went to the grips but no reading thru them.

The wiring diagrams I have and "as wired" dont match and I don't want to destroy anything. If I had a wiring diagram.......

The old cotroller failed, I got a solid state one from grip heaters and used a dremel tool to make a nice fit.

If only I could make it work. I fix stuff like this every day at work but this one has me stumped.

 

[ionbeam]

Is this the heat controller that you are trying to install?

Clickable pic:

 

[RaYzerman19]

Also, some controllers want the grips in parallel, some in series like Ionbeam's drawing.

 

[ionbeam]

The picture I show in the previous post is a clicable link which takes you to the site where it shows both series and parallel connections to the heated grips. The OEM Yamaha grips should be connected in series.

 

[RaYzerman19]

The picture I show in the previous post is a clicable link which takes you to the site where it shows both series and parallel connections to the heated grips. The OEM Yamaha grips should be connected in series.

Ahhhh, very good, me no clicky!!!

Not to hijack the controller thread, but am I hearing it correctly the OEM grips have a low speed (cooler) setting than high speed? If so, does anyone know at what speed this kicks in and can this be disabled? My grips take at least 5 minutes or longer to warm up (assume over 40-50 mph) and quite a while to get full hot. Is this normal?

 

[ionbeam]

At 1,500 to 1,800 RPM the ECU will reduce power to the heated grips, limiting them to a maximum power of 50%. It is RPM controlled, not speed.

It is normal for a 5 minute or longer warm up time. The grips are not only heating themselves, but the left bar and right throttle tube also.

 

[road runner]

The picture I show in the previous post is a clicable link which takes you to the site where it shows both series and parallel connections to the heated grips. The OEM Yamaha grips should be connected in series.

Ahhhh, very good, me no clicky!!!

Not to hijack the controller thread, but am I hearing it correctly the OEM grips have a low speed (cooler) setting than high speed? If so, does anyone know at what speed this kicks in and can this be disabled? My grips take at least 5 minutes or longer to warm up (assume over 40-50 mph) and quite a while to get full hot. Is this normal?

I'm not 100% sure so maybe Alan can chime in here.

I think the green/white wire that goes from the controller to the ECM, grounds the controller. The ECM regulates it by making and braking ground. So if you want the heat to be full on all the time, then take the ECM out of the picture and ground the controller permanently. To do so I would take the green/white wire out of the ECM plug and permanently ground it. You can spice into it anywhere and hook it to ground, just make sure you unhook it from the ECM.

Like I said, I'm not sure if that's exactly how it works so I would have to do some testing first before I did anything.

 

[Sailandcrash]

Series???? In series??? WHOOPS! that makes sense.....

So the two white wires go to the grips,one grounded to the balck wire, the other get 12 v+ from the output of the controller.

That makes sense, I never would have thought they would be in series, I figured parallel so if one goes out, the other would still work!

Since I dont get a resistance reading thru the grips with a digital meter, that must mean that a grip has an open wire, the dealer misdiagnosed the problem, and I spend 90 bucks for a controller that I dont need, and still need to buy a set of grips. I destroyed the old controller.

I dread taking the plastic apart to get to the grip connectors.

Thanks a bunch.....

 

[RaYzerman19]

Thanks, Ionbeam and roadrunner. If we find anything more about the green/white wire, I'd be interested to disable... by testing, do you mean just do it and see if that worked? I'm up for it. Don't know if it's on the wiring schematic or not, will check.

 

[road runner]

Series???? In series??? WHOOPS! that makes sense.....

So the two white wires go to the grips,one grounded to the black wire, the other get 12 v+ from the output of the controller.

That makes sense, I never would have thought they would be in series, I figured parallel so if one goes out, the other would still work!

Since I dont get a resistance reading thru the grips with a digital meter, that must mean that a grip has an open wire, the dealer misdiagnosed the problem, and I spend 90 bucks for a controller that I dont need, and still need to buy a set of grips. I destroyed the old controller.

I dread taking the plastic apart to get to the grip connectors.

Thanks a bunch.....

Yes they are wired in series, but the controller isn't wired the way you think.

The controller wires are different color than the wires they plug into.

The controller wire colors are;

black/green = ground

white/yellow = ECM

white/black = left grip

brown = power in to controller from headlight relay

Bike harness wire colors are;

black = ground

Lt green/white = ECM

red/black = left grip

green/blue = power in from headlight

If you want to test the grips, you can go to the "grip plugs". They are located in the left front,under glove box, in by the left signal lite. They are 2, two wire plugs, one black and one gray. Unplug them then check the resistance between the black/red wire in the black plug on the left grip and the brown wire in the gray plug on the right grip. Be aware the grip end of the wires may all be black, so you will have to note which color goes where before you unplug.

Or go simpler. If you already have the controller out, find the red/black wire that plugs into the controller and goes to left grip. Then unplug the brown wire at the front brake switch. Check the ohms between these will tell you if your grips are OK.

I believe the grips are fed from the brown wire, threw the two grips, threw the controller, and then to ground. So the controller regulates the ground, and the power to the grips on the brown wire is hot while the key is on. The controller wont complete the path to ground until the bike starts.

Hope this helps

edit; wire color corrections

 

[road runner]

My heated grip controller failed and I bought a replacement that has two wires and the Yamaha had 4 wires.

One brown, one black and two white.

One wire BROWN is 12+ from the battery and provides power to the new electronic controller.

The BLACK wire is 2.5 ohms to ground.

Two other white wires are open with no voltage and are open to ground and to one another.

They don't appear to go to the grips.

Got any ideas of how to get power to the grips? This is the factory heated grips on a 06 fjr.

Thanks fer your suggestions.

Getting back to the subject. You should be able to hook your 2 wire controller to the red/black, and to the black. These are the wires that used to hook to your factory controller. This will ground the grips like the factory one did, just now they will be hot with key on power instead of key on, bike running. So make sure you turn them off when not running.

 

[ionbeam]

FWIW --

 

[road runner]

Thanks Alan.

A pic is worth 1000 words.

I edited post 13 to correct wire colors.

 

[Sailandcrash]

The controller was bad and the throttle side grip had a broken wire.

I bought a heat controller and a set of grips from hot grips and all works well.

It was about a three hour project to install.

Grips are nice and comfy, not hard like the stock grips.