HyperPete
Opinionated curmudgeon
I just saw this posted on YouTube. It's by TwoWheelObsession. I'm wondering if it will fit my '04 too.
How To Upgrade A Yamaha FJR1300 Clutch To 2016 Slipper With Easy Pull
- Thread starter HyperPete
- Start date
Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:
$300.....Hmmm - might be a good winter project! You gotta love how cheap Yamaha parts are.
Last edited by a moderator:
Viper Pilot
Well-known member
Many many threads on this forum concerning this topic. Try searching!
The answer is YES!
The answer is YES!
mikeames
Well-known member
Just the reduction of clutch lever pressure make this appealing, although the stock pressure isn't terribly heavy compared to some.
Anyone one here tried this yet?
Anyone one here tried this yet?
ionbeam
2 FUN
Yes, not me but a local riding
My leaky memory recalls that by the numbers (and he measured them) the clutch pull isn't much lighter but the perception is that the pull force is noticeable less. At least initially the slipper clutch doesn't seem to be very noticeable. I can see this perhaps being done to my FJR at some point. With the OEM rear tire on my bike I have skidded the rear wheel a number of times when aggressively riding. The tire is about toast so I'll see how the bike does with a better tire first.
Last edited by a moderator:
As an aside, I like what Two Wheeled Obsession is doing but I wish I could play his videos in 2x speed. He takes 2 minutes to discuss every 30 second item.
You can.
Click the Gear icon to the right below the time bar. You can speed it up or slow it down.
Bungie
FrostBack #2 - IBA # 44620
Rain Dancer
Well-known member
Hand exercises and learn how to down shift would be cheaper!
wheatonFJR
...
phroenips
Pronounced "Free-nips"...it's just a
ionbeam
2 FUN
Last edited by a moderator:
Those interested in this clutch upgrade may want to read through the original thread on this started by deSudet.
'13 A&S Clutch Upgrade
I added my own experiences with this upgrade (as quoted by ionbeam above) to that thread. It would be good if we were able to merge all of the threads about this together.
'13 A&S Clutch Upgrade
I added my own experiences with this upgrade (as quoted by ionbeam above) to that thread. It would be good if we were able to merge all of the threads about this together.
Last edited by a moderator:
Brodie
Darksider #16 - and Proud of it !
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2006
- Messages
- 1,453
- Reaction score
- 538
Fred
It's interesting you stated that the initial pull is stiffer on the old clutch. That makes sense because it is a diaphragm spring. The flatter it becomes the less effort it takes due to its inverse progressive nature. The new slipper design uses 3 coil springs; most likely of a straight rate design.
I am curious about how the slipper aspect works in this new design. Would anyone care to elaborate? From the looks of it it is also do-able for the 2nd gen bikes too.
However, the Advanced Edition bikes should stay away from this modification. The electronics are programmed for the stock clutch, and I would think something like this would not play well with it. The other reason for staying away is that there is no need to do it we have no clutch handle pull AT ALL to deal with, and our slipper is electronically activated.
One other thing the gentleman mentioned in the video was to flush the clutch fluid annually. A very good idea, because the fluid seems to degrade quicker, it turns darker earlier. It's a quick easy job - even for the AE model, no need to remove the swing arm, just cycle the ignition switch to pump the fluid out the speed bleeder.
The gentleman posting the video did a nice job presenting the task from beginning to end. For those of us who are practiced wrenchers, he may seem rather long winded, but for someone who hasn't done something like this before the extra time he takes to thoroughly describe the job would be a godsend.
Brodie
It's interesting you stated that the initial pull is stiffer on the old clutch. That makes sense because it is a diaphragm spring. The flatter it becomes the less effort it takes due to its inverse progressive nature. The new slipper design uses 3 coil springs; most likely of a straight rate design.
I am curious about how the slipper aspect works in this new design. Would anyone care to elaborate? From the looks of it it is also do-able for the 2nd gen bikes too.
However, the Advanced Edition bikes should stay away from this modification. The electronics are programmed for the stock clutch, and I would think something like this would not play well with it. The other reason for staying away is that there is no need to do it we have no clutch handle pull AT ALL to deal with, and our slipper is electronically activated.
One other thing the gentleman mentioned in the video was to flush the clutch fluid annually. A very good idea, because the fluid seems to degrade quicker, it turns darker earlier. It's a quick easy job - even for the AE model, no need to remove the swing arm, just cycle the ignition switch to pump the fluid out the speed bleeder.
The gentleman posting the video did a nice job presenting the task from beginning to end. For those of us who are practiced wrenchers, he may seem rather long winded, but for someone who hasn't done something like this before the extra time he takes to thoroughly describe the job would be a godsend.
Brodie
Last edited by a moderator:
FXRS
Active member
I agree on the usefulness of his videos. I definitely appreciate having them.
I've been working on my bikes for years but this is the most expensive one with more hoses, switches, plumbing and doo-dads than any other I've owned. Videos takes the pucker factor down around the wrenching.
I probably won't do the clutch upgrade as my '14 ES clutch feels great as is. But, this thread helps keep me better informed on the subject. Thanks all,
I've been working on my bikes for years but this is the most expensive one with more hoses, switches, plumbing and doo-dads than any other I've owned. Videos takes the pucker factor down around the wrenching.
I probably won't do the clutch upgrade as my '14 ES clutch feels great as is. But, this thread helps keep me better informed on the subject. Thanks all,
s.ga.rider
Well-known member
I always thought the clutch pull was really light on the fjr. Try a harley, haha. I dont have any need for a slipper but after 2 clutch soaks a permanent fix to that would be nice,
I just finished the conversion on my 2015ES. I had previously installed a Bartlett system with a spring pressure plate. I had therefore a number of additions parts that needed changing that could not be reused. I also ran into some issue with a 2016 part that did NOT fit the previous model. I have mailed two inquiries to Bryan at TWO, but he doesn't respond.
Total cost with all the parts I did finally buy was around $520 including shipping. Parts took around a month to get here since not all of them are ever in stock. Anywhere. For instance the spring seat c clip is back ordered thru September 2016, etc.
The mechanical disassembly and reassembly are pretty straight forward, albeit not as nonchalant as Bryan discribes. Also clutch plate item 17 with its three possible choices presents a challenge. I bought the thinnest one and one additional standard one, since I didn't want together bogged down without parts in the middle of the job. I settled on the thinnest one, which in essence varies the total hight of the stack and changes the engagement point,etc. by minute amounts.
The part that does not fit is the required ball behind the plunger. I replaced it along with all the other stuff with a new 2016 ball. It installed ok, but after everything was buttoned up the lever was locked and could not be moved at all. I disassembled everything about three times and could not find any problems. After I drained all the hydraulic fluid I also took thee ball out and replaced it with the original one and behold, after bleeding the system it worked like a charm. I put the old and the new ball side by side and could visually see a minute difference. The new one appeared larger and therefore, of course, would not move in the tube as required. It simply got stuck.
As to the result? IMHO it's simply phenomenal! The clutch pull is much more linear, MUCH less force is needed and the slipper function is almost as good as on my BMW K1600. I live in the SoCal mountain areas around LA and it makes a world of difference coming down the hills just dropping the lever without any thoughts about RPMs and speed. As a welcome side effect the annoying stickiness of the original OEM clutch plates is history. The engagement is smooth as glass.
I believe Yamaha finally fixed an annoying design defect, that has been around for many years.
Total cost with all the parts I did finally buy was around $520 including shipping. Parts took around a month to get here since not all of them are ever in stock. Anywhere. For instance the spring seat c clip is back ordered thru September 2016, etc.
The mechanical disassembly and reassembly are pretty straight forward, albeit not as nonchalant as Bryan discribes. Also clutch plate item 17 with its three possible choices presents a challenge. I bought the thinnest one and one additional standard one, since I didn't want together bogged down without parts in the middle of the job. I settled on the thinnest one, which in essence varies the total hight of the stack and changes the engagement point,etc. by minute amounts.
The part that does not fit is the required ball behind the plunger. I replaced it along with all the other stuff with a new 2016 ball. It installed ok, but after everything was buttoned up the lever was locked and could not be moved at all. I disassembled everything about three times and could not find any problems. After I drained all the hydraulic fluid I also took thee ball out and replaced it with the original one and behold, after bleeding the system it worked like a charm. I put the old and the new ball side by side and could visually see a minute difference. The new one appeared larger and therefore, of course, would not move in the tube as required. It simply got stuck.
As to the result? IMHO it's simply phenomenal! The clutch pull is much more linear, MUCH less force is needed and the slipper function is almost as good as on my BMW K1600. I live in the SoCal mountain areas around LA and it makes a world of difference coming down the hills just dropping the lever without any thoughts about RPMs and speed. As a welcome side effect the annoying stickiness of the original OEM clutch plates is history. The engagement is smooth as glass.
I believe Yamaha finally fixed an annoying design defect, that has been around for many years.
Kaelaria
Well-known member
Yes, you emailed me to say - 'you screwed up, call me and I'll tell you about it'. Thanks for the opinion. Follow my video and it works just fine - many have done it. You chose to change the ball when you weren't told to, goof on you. Enjoy the fruits of my labor 
