I hate first oil changes

[frito1]

Caught a little nice weather so I took both bikes out for a ride. When I got back I got to thinking, I've not changed the oil in the FJR since I owned it. I bought it in late August and the precious owner said the oil had just been changed, so 1K later I thought I'd be sure. I got a Wix filter local, (no dealer in sight) and scammed 20/50 Valvoline Syn from my HD stock pile. First the fairing below below the filter. I thought I was gonna break the bolt or allen wrench, then to the drain plug, more of the same, and of course the filter was impact wrench tight. I even had to use pliers on the oil fill. I hate ham fisted, knuckle draggin' mechanics. I'm pretty sure the PO didn't do his own service, he seemed a little preppy for that type thing, probably why he sold the FJR because of divorce. Changed out the final drive while I was at it. Not a bad job at all and a little quicker & neater than the 3 hole change on my HD. Oh yeah, the sight glass has been full since I bought the bike. It had 5 quarts of oil in it. With a proper oil level and the associated decreased windage I should be faster than before.

Riding to work today.

 

[yamafitter]

Changing oil on the FJR is so simple compared to some bikes.

Too bad the PO didn't have the bike serviced properly but it seems to be in better hands now.

Did you change the crush washer on the drain plug?

 

[wfooshee]

Aw, geez. Crush washers again.

Don't worry 'bout it. Never replaced one one any vehicle EVER in my life, have never had a drain bolt leak.

Crush washers need to be there, but they don't need to be replaced unless they're over-crushed and cracked or broken.

Which, going back to the description in the first post, might actually be a problem here. So watch it for seepage.

 

[yamafitter]

If you are properly torquing the drain plug then IMHO a fresh crush washer is cheap insurance that the plug will not come loose or that your bike does not do a Harley impression and leak oil all over the ground.

If you are just one of those "righty-tighty" guys then it's not important but the engineers want a predetermined deformation of the crush washer when torquing the drain plug for proper sealing. That can only be obtained by using a fresh crush washer.

Following the procedure means never stripping a drain plug.

 

[SkooterG]

Following the procedure means never stripping a drain plug.

That's why I replace the crush washer every time. With a fresh crush washer, it is very obviousl (by feel) when the washer has crushed and you've properly torqued the drain plug.

So phooey on my Floridian hick FJR brother!

 

[Zorlac]

"Following the procedure means never stripping a drain plug."

Ummm, I believe the "procedure" indicates 30ftlbs on that plug so following the "procedure" might not be so ingenious. <_<

I'm in the wfooshee camp at ~22ftlbs on the plug, no leaks either.

 

[Ignacio]

"Following the procedure means never stripping a drain plug."

Ummm, I believe the "procedure" indicates 30ftlbs on that plug so following the "procedure" might not be so ingenious. <_<

31 actually. And of all the great deference I give to the Yamaha engineers...I too think this single spec is a bit risky and go for a torque less than the amount specified.

But, I do use a new crush washer every time after having a small drop leak the one time I tried to reuse one. (even when I torqued to 31).

Classic NEPRT fodder though...I know my oil religion isn't better than anybody else.

 

[frito1]

Changing oil on the FJR is so simple compared to some bikes.

Too bad the PO didn't have the bike serviced properly but it seems to be in better hands now.

I'm thinking you're right. I have a well equipped shop, lots of tools, and the good sense to use them (correctly). I don't trust other people to work on my vehicles. I have too much invested for someone that doesn't give a hoot to be under the hood/tank.

Did you change the crush washer on the drain plug?

Nope, like I said no dealer close, though I'll probably buy a few somewhere down the road. The current crush washer looks like a flat washer. It has been torqued to death and I'd bet it is the original. Seems like any vehicle I buy was built, owned, or serviced by some Popeye armed knucklehead. No leaks from the plug after a sprint to work with a drain plug just a little more than snug, so for me the crush washer is a non issue.

 

[garyahouse]

Just changed my oil for the first time since I bought the bike used. It now has 6800 miles on it, and I believe this is the second oil change the bike's had. Previous owner told me he "had" the oil changed... he took it to the dealer to have it serviced. I sat there and pulled and strained for all I was worth, but there was no way to remove that drain plug with my handy dandy craftsman 3/8 ratchet. Had to break out something with a lot more leverage. I'd like to know the name of the gorilla in the mechanic's uniform that sausage fingered that drain bolt on the bike. The crush washer was so smashed it looked like a razor blade. Reminds me of the hotdogs up at the tire shop that crank my lug nuts up to 650 ft lbs. every time they rotate my tires. Think I'll get myself a 2 foot long 3/4 drive breaker bar and get myself a job at the Yammie shop doing oil changes. I'm gonna get some revenge on the rest of the world. Get me some jb weld for the threads and put those drain bolts in so they'll NEVER leak. Heaven forbid if there was ever the slightest oil film any where near that drain plug...

Gary

darksider #44

 

[Patriot]

yep, do my own maintenance on the bike, but that first factory fresh change is always a PIA

seriously, I get the 1/2" long ratchet handle with 17mm socket and have to put some arm into loosening the drain plug.

then, forever after, it's my 3/8" ratchet with just a wrist action "tight enuf" feel measured torque.

same issues with gorilla installed oil filter...I either have to pull out my wrench on cap over end of filter, or just hammer a long screwdriver through the filter and turn as a handle

then, forever after that, I prefill the filter to soak fresh oil in there, oil up the threads and gasket, wipe off the engine side, and install turning the filter 1/2 to 3/4 turns after the gasket touches the engine

I've never replaced a crush gasket on any cage, but the last time I ordered some small Yamaha parts, I broke down and bought 10 of the 39 cent washers. I changed them once or twice, but don't see the possibility of a leak. And when flat, they are a real pain in the *** to get off the plug...in fact, going with a pick, pry tool, or screwdriver to get it off seems to me more chance of sticking something through my hand, or impact damaging the threads of the plug. So if anyone wants a spare or two crush washer, I suppose I could be talked into dropping one in a 1st class postage envelope and mailing it to you.

so what kind of oil are you using

 

[TomInPA]

changed mine the other night. No problem. Bought the bike with 6477 miles on it, and its now at 10,100 miles. The oil was a nice amber color. Put in Rotella T6 and a Pure One filter. Torque on the bolt was no issue, and it won't be next time. Guess I got lucky. While I was on a streak I changed out the brake and clutch fluids. I guess, I'm due for spark plugs, but 10K miles on plugs seems ridiculous.