I need help in Whitehorse

[wheatonFJR]

Any fault codes coming up on the display?

I know right how you feel...hope the shop can do you right!!

 

[frank]

My V65 ran like you described after filling up with water in the fuel in Houston. I think beads of it were rolling around in the tank. Definitely check the fuel supply. Good luck!

 

[Bigbeavk]

Sorry to hear your having trouble. The Tank only has a fine mesh screen inside and not a serviceable filter really. When you turn the key on the fuel pump back flushes the screen as it cycles on so I've read somewhere.

 

[blufjr]

Sorry to hear your having trouble. The Tank only has a fine mesh screen inside and not a serviceable filter really. When you turn the key on the fuel pump back flushes the screen as it cycles on so I've read somewhere.

Tank is off the bike as I type. I was told that removal of the fuel pump and review of the screens and sedimet is next on the list of investigation. Time will tell. Sounds like these guys know what they are doing.

Thanks for the input.

 

[rogdeb]

Sorry to hear your having trouble. The Tank only has a fine mesh screen inside and not a serviceable filter really. When you turn the key on the fuel pump back flushes the screen as it cycles on so I've read somewhere.

Sounds correct from what I've read and remember also.

 

[blufjr]

Ken,
The first paragraph of your original post sounds like a bad starter. There have been several reports of starters giving problems only when hot. They are very slow to turn over, and draw way too much current, resetting the dashboard. Most likely to happen when stopping for gas in the middle of a long, hot ride. Bike will show no symptoms when cold in the morning. Some searches will show up a few other threads with the same problem.

Over the life of the bike, I have had this happen 3 or 4 times. You may be right about the starter, cause it did draw down the power, but it works just fine the other 99.999999999% of the time. I think I will wait until the dam thing goes out. I'm waiting at the Whitehorse dealer now and they seem to have a handle on the investigation. They say that they will empty the tank and remove the fuel pump to check the screens for crud etc net. I will follow up with what they say is or was the problem. I hear the bike running now. 11:20 pdt, monday may 31.

 

[SacramentoMike]

Sorry, I got nothin' for you, Ken. Except sympathy. What a hell of a place to break down. Hope you get it figured out soon. But I'll offer this: my car broke down in a little village in the Adirondack Mountains (Inlet, NY) years ago, stuck there for four days, waiting for parts. I think my family and I made friends with everybody in town. They all knew we were the "family whose car broke down." People were so darn nice to us, even drove us to restaurants and then came to pick us up later (in the rain). Turned out to be a great experience. Hope yours has an upside of some kind too. Good luck.

 

[blufjr]

Sorry, I got nothin' for you, Ken. Turned out to be a great experience. Hope yours has an upside of some kind too. Good luck.

Hey, it's a motorcycle trip, eh. Loads of fun. All Good. No complaints yet. It's only money. I'm still alive and moving.

Thanks for well wishes.

 

[Mount Rainier]

We're down here pullin' for ya Ken. Nothing constructive in the way of possible solutions that hasn't already been offered except to say "Let us DT Riders know if you need anything." :thumbsupsmileyanim:

Keep Going! The best is yet to come........

 

[n2osx]

Ken- I hope things get figured out fir ya. When you get home, let me know if there are any parts you need off my bike sense it's down and not useable, or if you need me to overnight any parts off it to you up there. I'd be happy to spit for you. You name it, it's yours!! Also sense you're away from home for a bit, let me know if you need anything done at your house, I'd be happy to help there as well. Good luck brother, and let me know if ya need anything. 5zero3-seven89- three44seven

Carl

 

[weekend rider]

I was just reading about your problem you are having with your bike, it sucks away from home and on a trip.

I just checked the service manual for the required voltage is: 12.8v at 68 degrees F. or 20 degrees C.

If your battery is registering 11.6 battery no good or even 12.2 still no good.

I find a load test to be inconclusive and not all that reliable, it just gives a general idea of condition.

A better way to check the battery is put your volt meter on the battery and crank the engine over until it starts and see what the reading is for the voltage draw, any thing below 12 volts the battery is no good. But you need 12.8 so if it draws below 12.8 your battery your battery is failing the required amounts of volts needed to run your electrical system. Which resukts in low voltage high amp draw which EQUALS HEAT IN THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM== FAILURE SOME WHERE.

From what you have said 11.6 volts and bike quits--- low voltage equals high amperage draw

FIRST THING i WOULD DO IS RPLACE THE BATTERY. Then like what Mad Mike said strained wire, lose connection frayed wire rubbing against the frame shorting out the ignition switch,.

Here something to try also take your ignition switch apart and clean it with some electrical cleaner than put some electrical grease back on to help protect it and reassemble.

I checked the service manual for fuel filter did not find one. Could be incorporated with the fuel pump than it is expensive about $600.00

You may want to check your primary coil the readings should be---1.8 to 2.53 ohms at 68 degrees F. or 20 degrees C

Your coil could be heating after you have been on your bike running for a while ## remember, low voltage equals high amp draw. Just some more ideas the coil and battery measurements are from the service manual for a 2005

Good luck

 

[painman]

Only thing I could add on the electrical is if you haven't changed the battery cables, didn't see how many miles you have on the bike, but not a bad idea if changing out the cables while your in there. Had them mess with my head on another bike intermittantly and found resistance (corrosion) in the cable caused by a bunk battery resulting in low voltage. Hope you get it fixed. Painman. <><

 

[weekend rider]

I just remember a problem from another rider that had a problem similar to yours. Check the voltage at your fuel pump he had low voltage and it was doing the same thing. the service tech got in touch with Yamaha tech dept . and that is how the problem was solved. I t was a rider from the forum,can't remember their name. good luck

 

[huckstr]

Hi Ken,

What was the final answer to the mystery?

I was really sorry to hear about all this trouble. One comment... I and a number of others had a similar sounding problem with Honda ST1100s. It turned out to be the vacuum fuel cut off. Apparently the diaphragm inside the unit eventually gives out and symptoms you describe occurred. On that bike it was easy to bypass as the fuel lines entering a leaving the unit were unlike size and fit together.

I assume you got it worked out and were able to continue your trip. Oh well, its the trip, not the destination. At least thats what people say when they have this kind of crap happen. :glare:

 

[Aasland]

When it stops, does it lose power slowly and die, or is it like someone flipped a switch?

 

[escapefjrtist]

Hopefully no news is good news and Ken is off riding again.

--G

 

[blufjr]

Sorry I didn't get back to you guys, I know you have been waiting to hear the results or what was the problem.

[SIZE=14pt]Brake light was staying on. :glare: :clapping: :yahoo: [/SIZE]

I questioned whether this would draw down the power enough to cause this problem, but I haven't hand any problem since leaving Yukon Yamaha. Mechanic was quite sure that this was the route of the cause. Since the lubing of the foot brake and the switch, the voltage shown on the battery is right at 12.6 - 13.0 when not being charged. 13.0 usually right after turning the engine off and 12.6 after sitting all night outside.

No problem starting or running even when running with heated liner and grips. It doesn't figure to me, but the proof is in that it works now. The brake lights each draw an additional 21 watts = 42 watts.

My battery is now 3 years old and I think I will replace it when I get home. The $209 charge for the battery at the dealer was a little high.

Just a note. The mechanic did kind of stumble on the brake light. He invested 3 hours in the bike, and got on it right after finishing up another bike he had started the day before. I was very gratful that they jumped right on it and got me on the road just after noon. I did have to go pack up the tent and finally got back on the road around 3pm and road down to Boya Provincial Park for the night. (350m)

Its all good. I didn't get to Homer, but I can do that another time. I got to Skagway, Haines, and Hyder this trip, not bad, all very beatiful and should not be missed if you go to Alaska. Hard to do it all in one trip anyway, so another is in order. :yahoo: :yahoo:

I might have to find a new bike. This trip produced lots of pain in the shoulders and back that I haven't experienced before. One of the main reasons I didn't turn around and head for Anchorage. Well that another subject and shouldn't be addressed here.

Thanks again for all the suggestions and help. Funny how a simple and obvious problem can be overlooked.

 

[blufjr]

Hopefully no news is good news and Ken is off riding again.
--G

Left the dealer and rode to Boya Lake campground, then a motel without wifi in New Hazelton. I am now in Cache Creek and will get home tomorrrow.

 

[blufjr]

I just checked the service manual for the required voltage is: 12.8v at 68 degrees F. or 20 degrees C.
If your battery is registering 11.6 battery no good or even 12.2 still no good.

You hit it right on the head. Now find the problem item.

Thanks for the input.

 

[FJRPierre]

you might consider changing the brake light now rather than having it fail prematurely on a dark rainy day with logging trucks charging up your rear DAMHIK :angry: