Ignition fix

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That pound of cure is getting heavier to lift, so I'll take the ounce of prevention. Even though I've got an '05, it couldn't hurt. Although, I'll splice in so I can add a remote switch to power the realy in an emergency. Or the short version, I'll take one. Thanks.

 
Put me on the list also.

Thanks in advance for taking the bull by the horns and resolving this issue.

Gotta wonder what's taking Yamaha so long to address this.

Randy

 
That said, My intent is to produce 25 of these and offer them to whomever is interested on this forum. I'm not ready yet, I need to obtain supplies and tool up for this. I will have them built before I offer them.

If you are handy with electrical things you have the information needed to make your own for just the price of materials.

Our favorite ride has a major flaw that is showing up with mileage. This is an attempt to address the root cause of the ignition switch issue - a thermal runaway situation. If your bike is already showing symptoms of an ignition switch failure, get it fixed. Then install a relay to keep it healthy.

Yamaha, if you're listening... we are doing your job! :angry2:

Brodie

Please add me to the list

Thanks,

Kirk

 
I had been wondering how to modify the harness to include 2 leads that could be connected to "hot wire" the ignition in the event of a failure... maybe long enough to go under the tank and end under the seat for easy connecting and security. Like what you have to do under the switch housing with the red/brown wires when they fail roadside.
Perhaps one of the resident rocket surgeons on this forum could post up some diagrams to answer both these questions.....please?

Thanks.

B)

Well, lets' see... I ain't no rocket sturgeon (whatever that is) but I think I can 'splain what you need to know.

First off, there are two way that this modification can fail.

1) The POS Yamaha switch can still fail due to dirt or desoldering itself / breaking wires, etc. even though the current has been mostly removed from the switch contacts. When that happens you won't be able to trigger the relay on (without doing something)

2) The Relay being added is an electromechanical device. It may fail.

Refer to Brodie's schematic diagram (copied below) for my explanation of how to circumvent each of these situations.

In case # 1 above (bad switch) you will want to disconnect the connector going to the ignition switch and short the two wires together (Brown and Red) in the new harness. You could do that buy having a jumper/shorting plug made up in advance. It would mean popping up the tank, disconnecting the harness and connecting your jumper. Alternatively, you could have a bypass switch already wired into those two points (in parrallel to the ignition switch) that resides under your seat or some other secure area. I would suggest using another keyed switch as otherwise you will undermine the security of your bike.

In case #2 above (bad relay) you will have to go under the tank, pull the two plugs apart added in this modification and restore the connectors to their normal configuration. Everything goes back to normal. That is the truly elegant part about this modification. It is completely and easily roadside reversible.

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Brodie, thanks for the efforts in designing and building this solution.

I would like to buy one unit as soon as they are available, please add me to the list.

Thanks!

JamesK

 
So Fred, I guess you're saying I'd still have to pop the tank to disconnect the new relay to run a "hot wire" repair and bypass the ignition switch?

 
You can just cut into the switch wiring as usual & bypass the problem even with this harness without raising tank.
Thanks, but I am trying to avoid doing this with a flashlight roadside, hence the desire to just lift the seat and connect 2 wires to do the same.

B)

 

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