ckuhns
Member
My 2010 FJR's ignition key with 66,000 miles has become hard to remove and insert. I have tried a couple of other keys with the same result. Any suggestions on a lube to try? Happy New Year Carl
Ignition key hard to remove and insert
- Thread starter ckuhns
- Start date
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majicmaker
Well-known member
Your ignition switch might be starting to die on you. I had two of them die. It started out with the same symptoms and then it dies. One of them died on me in mid flight. Get it replaced before the same happens to you.
bluesdog
Well-known member
Possibly too late to revive the internals, especially if they're worn excessively.
I use ACF-50 for mine at each oil change. It's designed as a lube and anti-corrosive. There are a few other similar products out there, however wd-40 isn't one.
I use ACF-50 for mine at each oil change. It's designed as a lube and anti-corrosive. There are a few other similar products out there, however wd-40 isn't one.
RaYzerman19
Go Wings!
Chances are it is gummed up and needs a good cleaning with a mild solvent to get rid of accumulated dirt and whatever you lubed it with last time. Cleaned mine and it was much better. On the road once i used a lock deicer that had an oil in it, worked fine too.
MrZappo
Can we please go riding now ?
Acf-50 or corrosion x. Almost the same. Works great. Not wd40.
Brodie
Darksider #16 - and Proud of it !
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Look closely, there is a swing door on this ignition switch. When you pull the key out does it close, or is there an opening leading into the tumblers.
This swing door is spring loaded and lives in this disk shaped insert.
It is not sold separately, but if it is dirty, or just deformed it can be repaired. It just requires your disassembling the ignition switch.
Brodie
This swing door is spring loaded and lives in this disk shaped insert.
It is not sold separately, but if it is dirty, or just deformed it can be repaired. It just requires your disassembling the ignition switch.
Brodie
First off, make sure that your key is absolutely flat. They are of a soft metal and easily deform, and it only takes a slight twist or subtle bend to see the symptoms you describe. A few gently hammered taps against the key held to a flat, hard surface (anvil, vise, etc) will correct. A deformed key might work just fine in the saddle bag and other locks, yet only be a problem in the full-depth ignition lock.
Also, as stated above, clean the lock. You can flush the lock by liberally spraying silicon lubricant in the key slot. Use a rag stuffed beneath the lock mechanism to catch/absorb the gush/drips. You may be amazed at all the crap that flushes out. Stay away from the graphite "lock lubricants". After all, this is an electrical switch, so avoiding conductive graphite is a good thing.
Also, as stated above, clean the lock. You can flush the lock by liberally spraying silicon lubricant in the key slot. Use a rag stuffed beneath the lock mechanism to catch/absorb the gush/drips. You may be amazed at all the crap that flushes out. Stay away from the graphite "lock lubricants". After all, this is an electrical switch, so avoiding conductive graphite is a good thing.
+1 on what Brodie suggested. Dissasembling and cleaning the ignition is sound advice. I've never given it a second thought until last August when I got stranded 200 miles from home with a bike that wouldn't "light up" when the key was turned. Crud just has a way to getting into the ignition, whether that results in the wafers not moving freely or the contacts not making contact. But at only 66K miles I wouldn't think you'd have all that much crud buildup yet. FWIW up until my stranding with about 194K on the bike, silicon spray and re-straighting the key has always helped. Just don't discount that at some point a total cleaning of the ignition might be prudent.
I will generally take a can of contact cleaner with a straw on the spray nozzle, then spray a generous amount inside the lock to blow out all the junk. I then will dip my key in a little bit of bearing grease, then stick it in the lock and twist back and forth a few times. Powdered graphite is technically better for this duty, but it's a little too messy for my liking.
Your key will be a little greasy the first time or two that you pull it out of the lock, but after a few wipes the grease will stay where it needs to be and not get on your key.
Your key will be a little greasy the first time or two that you pull it out of the lock, but after a few wipes the grease will stay where it needs to be and not get on your key.
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MadRussian
Well-known member
Sell the bike, she is done...
ckuhns
Member
Nah, It is a great bike one of the best of the 27 bikes that I have owned. Besides I just got done lubing the relay arm. Thanks for all the suggestions. I think I will order some of that ACF-50 to see if that will correct the problem. Carl
Mihalis fjr
Well-known member
HotRodZilla
GOD BLESS AMERICA
Your ignition switch shouldn't be close to worn out. As others have said, I think it's a dirt/lube issue. It could also be a bent key, but usually, that's noticeable..usually.
I have two locks that are a constant problem. One is on a Ford Explorer and freezes every time it gets cold. It's weird, but the key on the driver's door won't work. Passenger side is fine. The other lock is a deadbolt on an exterior wrought-iron gate. That lock is constantly difficult to operate because of the dirt that gets in. Both of these locks were a hassle on the same day and I think I found the fix.
I have two products from Autozone: CRC QD-Electronics cleaner and Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil. The electronic cleaner works great on my FJR ignition and I use dry lube or silicon lube for that. For the frozen Ford lock and the exterior deadbolt, I cleaned both of them and then used the penetrating oil. They have both been good for a few weeks. It's been really cold at night here, and that Ford lock hasn't frozen again. The deadbolt lock is still smooth and working great. Best it's worked in years.
Instead of waiting for the AC50, try this. You may get instant satisfaction.
I have two locks that are a constant problem. One is on a Ford Explorer and freezes every time it gets cold. It's weird, but the key on the driver's door won't work. Passenger side is fine. The other lock is a deadbolt on an exterior wrought-iron gate. That lock is constantly difficult to operate because of the dirt that gets in. Both of these locks were a hassle on the same day and I think I found the fix.
I have two products from Autozone: CRC QD-Electronics cleaner and Liquid Wrench Penetrating Oil. The electronic cleaner works great on my FJR ignition and I use dry lube or silicon lube for that. For the frozen Ford lock and the exterior deadbolt, I cleaned both of them and then used the penetrating oil. They have both been good for a few weeks. It's been really cold at night here, and that Ford lock hasn't frozen again. The deadbolt lock is still smooth and working great. Best it's worked in years.
Instead of waiting for the AC50, try this. You may get instant satisfaction.
bgross
Recusant Infidel
Great thread!
Now I have to go down to the garage and talk to the girls. They almost had me convinced that I was only supposed to remove the keys in order to fill the fuel tanks.
They can be SO manipulative.
In a good way!
Happy new year.
Now I have to go down to the garage and talk to the girls. They almost had me convinced that I was only supposed to remove the keys in order to fill the fuel tanks.
They can be SO manipulative.
In a good way!
Happy new year.
Last edited by a moderator:
Place a rag under the end of the key cylinder and then take a can of WD-40 with the straw and spray in it. do several long squirts. This will free up and clean out any gunk built up as well as free up anything sticking inside.
mcatrophy
Privileged to ride a 2018 FJR1300AS
... then wash out the WD40 with brake cleaner, finally lubricate with something like a PTFE lubricant.
(WD40 will leave a slight residue that will attract dirt, which in due course will attract moisture.)
RichDoyle
Well-known member
I had this happen to my NT700. Just took appropriate lube.
HyperPete
Opinionated curmudgeon
I'm no expert on FJRs, but I can tell you that any liquid lubricant will end up attracting dirt.
I would suggest that you clean it well with something like what was suggested above, but then, use GRAPHITE to lube the assembly.
Graphite will not attract dirt like a lubricant will, and it will never become gummy. I have a pint sized can that dates back to probably the 1950's, or even earlier. (It was in a box of stuff I won at an auction.) I believe you can buy a small tube of the stuff for a couple of bucks at any hardware store.
I would suggest that you clean it well with something like what was suggested above, but then, use GRAPHITE to lube the assembly.
Graphite will not attract dirt like a lubricant will, and it will never become gummy. I have a pint sized can that dates back to probably the 1950's, or even earlier. (It was in a box of stuff I won at an auction.) I believe you can buy a small tube of the stuff for a couple of bucks at any hardware store.
