Ignition switch lubrication

[mcatrophy]

Recently my ignition switch has been jamming, so that I can't move the key between its four positions. What happens is that the key simply won't turn, as if it's the wrong profile. A little wriggle will sometimes enable it to move, sometimes I've had to remove it, re-insert it, wiggle it, several times before the wanted result.

Sometimes reversing the key seems to help, but it's not consistent.

My guess is that some detritus has got into the mechanism so that the slidey bits in the cylinder aren't moving freely.

Question: What's the best way to clear this (other than removing the switch from the bike)?

i've previously tried using WD40 to clean it out (by holding the sliding bit open with a small hex key) and squirting vast quantities of stuff into the hole, then 3-in-1 oil to lubricate it (which I know will wash out as rain and/or washing water runs through the switch). This worked for about a year.
(Click on image for larger view)


But it's re-occurred.

I've now tried using brake cleaner to wash it out, followed by some spray PTFE lubricant.



This now lets the key turn, but it feels notchy, not like the "hot knife through butter" feel it used to have as it was turned between positions.

My key doesn't appear to be particularly bent nor warn.



Comments, please.

 

[Fred W]

Do you have a newer looking copy of that same key? How does that one behave? If that one is OK, just have a new key made for it? I know that is not trivial for you folks with immobilizers and such, but better than than being stuck locked out of your bike somewhere.

I have three keys for my '05. The one that got the most use initially wore to the point where it could be removed from the lock cylinder when in any position (including the engine running) which is sort of handy sometimes. I keep one key unused so that it can be the master for new duplicates.

 

[ionbeam]

Even though the key is double sided the ignition switch tumbler is only single sided. If the key doesn't want to turn, pull the key out and rotate it 180º and try it again. If it works better the second way the key is probably the root cause. Use the key code that came with your bike to have a new key cut. If it isn't the key, you are probably looking at doing the one thing you don't want to do....

Is it only the ignition switch? If it's every tumbler it's the key, if it's only the ignition switch you may have a chance to enjoy the security screws in the ignition switch.

Edit: I see Fred has had his coffee and posted basically the same thing while I was still typing.

 

[hppants]

I've had much better luck using graphite as a lubricant on all kinds of locks, including the ones on my FJR.

 

[Brodie]

It may be the cam mechanism for the fork lock hanging up. I hate to say it, but taking it apart may be the best way to resolve this issue.

Follow the links in my signature line to see how it's built. Hopefully you won't have to go that far, but it's really not that hard to open one of these up.

I'm with Fred, keeping an original key out of circulation is the best way to guarantee having the best first generation copy for the life of the bike.

Good luck.

Brodie

 

[ionbeam]

I've had much better luck using graphite as a lubricant on all kinds of locks, including the ones on my FJR.

On every lock on the bike but the ignition switch. The tumblers are supposed to be sealed from the ignition switch electrical contacts, but if Slippery Stuff graphite does eke through the seal you have conductive material in with the electrical bits.

 

[hppants]

Ionbeam - thanks for this tip. I didn't realize what I was doing. That could be dangerous under the wrong circumstances.

 

[Top_Speed1]

I 2nd the dry Graphite. It will lube the tumblers/pins so they move to the form of your key and won't hang up.

 

[Geezer]

I've had much better luck using graphite as a lubricant on all kinds of locks, including the ones on my FJR.

On every lock on the bike but the ignition switch. The tumblers are supposed to be sealed from the ignition switch electrical contacts, but if Slippery Stuff graphite does eke through the seal you have conductive material in with the electrical bits.

I also used graphite to free up a sticking ignition lock. I did not realize there was a potential issue with this, though I did use the stuff sparingly because I am never sure if I'm helping or hurting when I squirt things into tight places.

Regarding the WD40, the problem is that it dries and becomes sticky such that dust and debris will stick to it. I would use a few drops of alcohol or other mild solvent to see if it frees the lock. The brake cleaner is probably OK, but they are not all the same and some might be too harsh.

 

[mcatrophy]

Thanks for all the replies, all useful comments.

A few comments:

Do you have a newer looking copy of that same key? How does that one behave? If that one is OK, just have a new key made for it? I know that is not trivial for you folks with immobilizers and such, but better than than being stuck locked out of your bike somewhere...

I do have another key that is barely used (normally kept round my neck in case I lose my usual one).

I didn't try this key while the lock was in a refusing state, I'd made the assumption that it was the lock as the key turns the other locks on the bike smoothly. With the lock now working, but "catchy", both keys feel similar.

Even though the key is double sided the ignition switch tumbler is only single sided. If the key doesn't want to turn, pull the key out and rotate it 180º and try it again...

I tried it the other way. As I said in my original post, sometimes reversing it helped, but not always, to the extent that with the key one way round, from "Off" to "On" might work and "Off" to "Lock" wouldn't, with the key the other way round "Off" to "On" wouldn't work but "Off" to Lock" would. But, not consistent.

I've had much better luck using graphite as a lubricant on all kinds of locks, including the ones on my FJR.

I might give this a try if (when) it goes really bad again ...

On every lock on the bike but the ignition switch. The tumblers are supposed to be sealed from the ignition switch electrical contacts, but if Slippery Stuff graphite does eke through the seal you have conductive material in with the electrical bits.

... and I will risk the possibility of a little electrical leakage.

I 2nd the dry Graphite. It will lube the tumblers/pins so they move to the form of your key and won't hang up.

Ok, next time.

...Regarding the WD40, the problem is that it dries and becomes sticky such that dust and debris will stick to it. I would use a few drops of alcohol or other mild solvent to see if it frees the lock. The brake cleaner is probably OK, but they are not all the same and some might be too harsh.

Yes, I know WD40 isn't ideal, but it got me out of a hole the first time when I was immobile!

I take your point about the alcohol v. the brake cleaner. Next time (and I'm sure there'll be a next time), I'll use some isopropyl, and then graphite.

Hope I don't get stuck in Wales over the weekend. What a horrible thought.

Ok, thanks people, back to your usual program.

 

[Mihalis fjr]

Has solved the same problem in the ignition switch..

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ABUS-PS88-50ml-Lubricating-Spray/dp/B000Y8P8BY

 

[Bounce]

DO NOT use WD40 for locks. I was never designed as a lube. It's for water displacement (WD). It will certainly gum up the works.

Dry graphite will work but I find the spay silicone lube works better. The carrier will wash out the grit and, when it evaporates, it leaves behind a lube as good (or better than) graphite that doesn't attract grime like WD40 or many wet lubes do.

You can find it at any auto parts department and many brands like below (I currently have some by 3M as well as others). Been working well for decades on many different bikes. Be sure to do the saddle bags, too.

I'm with the others that said to high tail it to a locksmith and get some $1 duplicates made. Put the originals away some place safe at home.

 

[mcatrophy]

Has solved the same problem in the ignition switch..

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ABUS-PS88-50ml-Lubricating-Spray/dp/B000Y8P8BY

DO NOT use WD40 for locks. I was never designed as a lube. It's for water displacement (WD). It will certainly gum up the works.
Dry graphite will work but I find the spay silicone lube works better. The carrier will wash out the grit and, when it evaporates, it leaves behind a lube as good (or better than) graphite that doesn't attract grime like WD40 or many wet lubes do.

You can find it at any auto parts department and many brands like below (I currently have some by 3M as well as others). Been working well for decades on many different bikes. Be sure to do the saddle bags, too.

I'm with the others that said to high tail it to a locksmith and get some $1 duplicates made. Put the originals away some place safe at home.

Thanks for these suggestions, both look good.

Duplicate keys are not practical because of the anti-theft stuff built-in, and to get a spare would cost around £40-£50 ($60-$80), and I still don't think it's the key at fault here.

 

[DennisJ]

Cleaned my switch yesterday after reading this thread. CRC Heavy Duty Silicon Spray to clean and TriFlow to lubricate. I found that at sometime in the last couple of years I have gotten in the habit of depressing the key in the lock while trying to turn 'On' the ignition after unlocking it and that it works a lot better if I don't press down on the key after unlocking the Ignition. That is probably mentioned in the Owners Manual but I had forgotten that detail. Anyway, the lock is now working a lot smoother, still a little bit of 'notchiness' when unlocking so I will try with one of the factory keys. If that prevents the 'notchiness' it is time to have some new everyday keys cut.

 

[Bounce]

The silicone spray by itself is a lube. The carrier base for the aerosol spray will act as a cleaner then evaporate away.

 

[mcatrophy]

Well, it looks as if I'm going to find an alternative solution, similar to Ignacio's.

Will keep my fingers crossed that my switch will last me just a little longer ...

 

[SSHANK42]

My fix was a soaking Pb Blaster. Then filled it full of Dawn dishwashing liquid. Took key and push it in and out several time to act as agitator. Followed with thorough cleaning with brake cleaner. To top it off I used a little synthetic bike chain lube. Did this 2 years ago and it still works super smooth.

 

[Geezer]

Well, it looks as if I'm going to find an alternative solution, similar to Ignacio's.
Will keep my fingers crossed that my switch will last me just a little longer ...

Does that mean there will soon be a 2010 FJR for sale in Derby?

 

[mcatrophy]

Well, it looks as if I'm going to find an alternative solution, similar to Ignacio's.

Will keep my fingers crossed that my switch will last me just a little longer ...

Does that mean there will soon be a 2010 FJR for sale in Derby?

Erm, it's looking a bit that way .