impressive sliders

[RPrice]

Been meaning to get em! Just put in my order!

Me Too, hope I don't need an extra set!

 

[BackintheSaddle]

What the heck....just ordered a set, too!

 

[Island_FJR]

Just confirming that they are shipping the new version at the old price. Very helpful on the phone too. I ordered a set.

 

[Donal]

One more confirmation. I ordered a set to be delivered to the UK. No problem and they only charged exactly what it costs them to send it Priority Mail® International Small Flat Rate Box - $13.25. As far as I'm concerned it doesn't get better than that. :clapping:

Don

 

[BobMercer]

Just received the new T-rex sliders. Very impressed with the appearance, and quality of construction and materials. Seems to be a fantastic buy.

Now my question. Since I have to remove my old sliders, what is the best procedure? Should the engine be up to normal operating temperature, or should it be ambient temperature for easiest removal of the bolts holding the sliders. Suggestions appreciated.

Bob

 

[Sharif]

Now my question. Since I have to remove my old sliders, what is the best procedure? Should the engine be up to normal operating temperature, or should it be ambient temperature for easiest removal of the bolts holding the sliders. Suggestions appreciated.

I'll be looking for answers two - my T-Rexes will arrive this week. I've never installed sliders before - is it as simple as undo existing bolt, put in slider bolt and torque to 30-35 ft-lb?

Bob - did yours come with instructions?

Sharif

 

[moto]

Just received the new T-rex sliders. Very impressed with the appearance, and quality of construction and materials. Seems to be a fantastic buy.

Now my question. Since I have to remove my old sliders, what is the best procedure? Should the engine be up to normal operating temperature, or should it be ambient temperature for easiest removal of the bolts holding the sliders. Suggestions appreciated.

Bob

It seems that T-Rex is sending the 'old' set of instructions with the new sliders. They suggest using "Locite thread lock" on the bolts. Most folks on this forum say don't use it. They also mention doing the right side first. Our Forum tells us to do the left side first.

I think going with the suggestions from folks on this forum who have worked on more FJR then T-Rex has would be a good idea. I do hope they up-date the instructions.

Bob, did you get two M-10 flat washers with your slider kit?

Regards,

 

[BobMercer]

Moto & Sharif,

I did not receive M-10 flat washers with my kit, but I did receive instructions for installing the latest version N69-6 Sliders. However, the instructions are confusing to me because the first action taken is to "Remove the left side (brake lever side) exposed engine mount bolt." is a contradiction. I always think of the right side as the brake lever side, as you sit on the bike. I have sent T-rex an email asking if the instructions are incorrect as written. The photos in the instructions appear to be opposite of the text. There is no mention of using Loctite.

Do we need washers for the installation?

Bob

 

[TechJunkie]

Mine came very quickly and installation was a snap. Looks great on the feejer. Hope I never have to field test them.

Bob, mine didn't have any flat washers in the kit.

 

[no1passesme]

I ordered a set of these earlier this week and they arrived today. I noticed the conflicting issue with the instructions stating to do the left side with the brake lever as well, but moved on to the install regardless. I started on the right side and removed the existing bolt, which also had a washer present. I did a test fit and the new bolt wouldn't thread in by hand properly . . . it kind of tried to angle and stuck. I tried many times without any luck, so I put the original back in, not wanting to cause any kind of stripping on my engine mount.

I moved to the left side and the bolt went in perfectly. Not being sure of whether to use the original washers or not and not wanting to install just a single slider, I put the original bolt back in on the left as well.

I emailed T-Rex about the issue (perhaps I got a bad right side bolt). I also asked if the original washers should be used with the new bolts or not. I will post back once I hear back on both of these issues.

. . . Dan

 

[BobMercer]

Dan,

I appreciate your post, since I haven't started my installation. I took a closer look at the two bolts provided by T-rex and they seem to be from very different sources. Although they are both identified as 12.9 spec, there does seem to be a difference in the quality of finish. Perhaps that is what you experienced in trying to start the right side bolt,i.e., the thread may not be perfect at the tip of the bolt.

I agree that it was wise not to force the bolt, as it is an engine mount fastener. I'm very interested to hear what T-rex has to say about your experience.

Bob

 

[joebiodiesel]

As I posted eariler in this thread, the bolts are low quality and I had to re-thread mine in order to keep from stripping out the threads on the engine.

I like their kit. The bolts suck. Don't force them in or you're going to regret it.

If the bolt won't thread easily into the engine, you need to fix the threads.

Joe

 

[TechJunkie]

My right hand bolt came out harder than my left. The new bolt threaded in ok but was a little harder to turn than the left. The factory bolt was the same so I didn't worry about it too much.

 

[BobMercer]

Joe,

Help us out. What size die did you use to re-do the threads on the T-rex provided bolts? Did you just do the initial threads, or the entire length? Do you use anti-seize on the threads prior to insertion?

Thanks,

Bob

 

[no1passesme]

Techjunkie, I agree, the right bolt was harder to turn on my bike as well. Did you reinstall the original washers with the new bolts? Thx, Dan

 

[86fj1200]

Sorry you guys are having such a hard time with the hardware. I didn't have any issues with hardware or installation when I initally posted this thread. I started on the left side(clutch side) then the right. I didn't use the original flat washer , felt it wasn't needed because the bolt extended through the aluminum piece the same distance as the oem bolt length. I used locktite(removable 242) and torqued it down.

I'm not saying it was the proper procedure but that is what I did.

Good luck

 

[TechJunkie]

Techjunkie, I agree, the right bolt was harder to turn on my bike as well. Did you reinstall the original washers with the new bolts? Thx, Dan

No. I only installed what they sent in the kit. I guess I didn't see any benefit to washers. The original bolt used a washer as it would have contacted the metal of the frame without a washer. The new kit has the large bushings that the sliders attach to. I figured these were really big washers. Maybe I am wrong but if they had needed washers I figured they would have come with them. If I am wrong it is a simple fix to add washers.

BTW I did pull my right bolt once it was in and looked at the threads. I didn't have any aluminum on the threads or any signs it had cross threaded or stripped. It was clean and went back in with the same friction the second time as it did the first and as much as the original bolt came out with. Not sure why the right side has a little more friction.

Sorry you guys are having such a hard time with the hardware. I didn't have any issues with hardware or installation when I initally posted this thread. I started on the left side(clutch side) then the right. I didn't use the original flat washer , felt it wasn't needed because the bolt extended through the aluminum piece the same distance as the oem bolt length. I used locktite(removable 242) and torqued it down.

I'm not saying it was the proper procedure but that is what I did.

Good luck

Don't be sorry! You passed along a great tip! I followed your procedure exactly! I am happy with mine!

 

[joebiodiesel]

Joe,

Help us out. What size die did you use to re-do the threads on the T-rex provided bolts? Did you just do the initial threads, or the entire length? Do you use anti-seize on the threads prior to insertion?

Thanks,

Bob

If I remember correctly it is a 12mm, 1.25 thread pitch.

I did not use anti-seize.

Joe

 

[no1passesme]

Sorry you guys are having such a hard time with the hardware. I didn't have any issues with hardware or installation when I initally posted this thread. I started on the left side(clutch side) then the right. I didn't use the original flat washer , felt it wasn't needed because the bolt extended through the aluminum piece the same distance as the oem bolt length. I used locktite(removable 242) and torqued it down.

I'm not saying it was the proper procedure but that is what I did.

Good luck

No need to be sorry, this is a great find.

I called T-Rex today since they didn't respond to my email. They acknowledged the fact that they've had some bad bolts and said they thought they were checking them all closely before sending them out and that this one must have slipped through. He said he would personally verify the new bolt before sending it to me. He also said that if the bolt doesn't hand thread into the engine mount, don't force it with a wrench, so I guess I did SOMETHING right!

Taking a closer look at the bad bolt I have, I can see a very slight bend at the threaded end and can also see that there seems to be a 1/4 inch area that spans all of the threads where the threads are thicker and flat where they should all be very pointed.

Will post once more when the new bolt arrives.

 

[BackintheSaddle]

What the heck....just ordered a set, too!

Received mine tonight; T-Rex shipped the day after I ordered but USPS lagged. As others have noticed, these seem to be nicely made and I especially like the way the aluminum piece fits into the frame. I did not have any problems with threads but did notice the right is a tighter fit; I am chalking that up to the pinch bolt on the right side.

Thanks for the tip on these! Here's to never having to test them out!!!!