impressive sliders

[frito1]

Mine have been laying around a week, put them on today. Both bolts would spin in easily without the inner support. Put the inner support in place a there's a bit of stiction at regular intervals like there may be a bit of a bend or an interference fit in the bolts. The inner supports fit *tight* in the frame. I had to buff the frame insets with a little wet or dry to get 'em in. Heaven help me after a bit of oxidation. I'd say they're OK for the price. I got to scrounge up a 10 mm hex socket. My bolts are currently torqued till my elbow clicked using a hockey stick allen.

 

[RPrice]

Received mine yesterday, installation was easy, no issues!

Look nice on the Feej.

 

[Sharif]

Received mine yesterday, installation was easy, no issues!

How did you install? Specifically:

* Torque?

* Loctite?

Thanks,

Sharif

 

[no1passesme]

The new right side bolt arrived today and I wish I could say it was perfect. I took it out of the envelope and could tell right away that it had a very similar 1/4" or so area where the threads were just flattened down or something. I'm going to have to agree with joebiodiesel on the quality of the bolts as even though this one threaded in ok, I could visually see that the threads had some issues. None of the OEM bolts or the left side bolt have this issue . . . all have perfect threads.

Anyway, props to T-rex for getting me a bolt that fits.

I did not use the original washers, no loctite, and torqued them to the service manual spec of 35 lbs. They do look quite nice on my blacked out 09.

. . . Dan

 

[bthomas]

Got mine in. Noticed the same bolt problem. I took the bolt and ran a same size nut on it a few times. It did thread in, but after a little convincing.

 

[Donal]

Installed mine today - no problems. Tried each bolt first without the aluminium piece, both went all the way with no problems. Greased the aluminium bit where it 'mates' with the frame and assembled without any fuss. Greased the puck before fitting them and just spun them on. Looks a lot better than the Yamaha version IMHO. Just hope I never need to test them out :blink:

Don

 

[BobMercer]

My installation of the sliders was delayed because I needed a replacement left-side (shorter) bolt that just came yesterday. The original bolt had some poorly finished threads at the tip. T-Rex sent me a much improved bolt when asked. Today I began the installation and the left side was completed in a few minutes. Then I removed my current right-side slider/bolt and tried to install the T-Rex. The bolt would start without a problem, but the orange threaded aluminum piece will not go into place. I tried a little "Break Free LCP," but it will not fit in the frame receptacle. Have any of you T-Rex slider guys had to loosen the right-side pinch bolt in order to seat the aluminum piece?

If you did loosen the pinch bolt, do you have a description of the fairing removal procedure? Would have been much easier if T-Rex made the diameter of the aluminum piece a tiny bit smaller in diameter.

Bob

 

[Sharif]

Finally got around to installing mine tonight. Piece of cake, no thread issues with the bolts. Out of curiosity, where did folks position the 10 mm hex number that holds on the pucks? I positioned mine straight down, so it points at the ground.

Hope I never need them!

Sharif

 

[mferriter]

Unless there is an inner steel sleeve they will come loose. Don't forget these bolts also support your engine and is an integral member ot your frame system. Simular metals will end up galling and creating an anodic reaction. An aluminum bolt into an aluminum frame is not a good Idea.

Good luck

Dave

Aluminum bolt in an aluminum frame will not cause galvanic corrosion, if that's what you're referring to. This only happens with different metals with anodic differences greater than 0.25V - 0.30V. It can "cold weld" however, if you over torque it since it's so soft.

 

[wmadoty]

My installation of the sliders was delayed because I needed a replacement left-side (shorter) bolt that just came yesterday. The original bolt had some poorly finished threads at the tip. T-Rex sent me a much improved bolt when asked. Today I began the installation and the left side was completed in a few minutes. Then I removed my current right-side slider/bolt and tried to install the T-Rex. The bolt would start without a problem, but the orange threaded aluminum piece will not go into place. I tried a little "Break Free LCP," but it will not fit in the frame receptacle. Have any of you T-Rex slider guys had to loosen the right-side pinch bolt in order to seat the aluminum piece?

If you did loosen the pinch bolt, do you have a description of the fairing removal procedure? Would have been much easier if T-Rex made the diameter of the aluminum piece a tiny bit smaller in diameter.

Bob

I filed mine down a few thousandths with a wood rasp and smoothed it out with several smaller grits of sand paper. It took the orange off of the bushing, but you cant see it and who cares. I am even thinking about painting that bushing black since so much of it shows with the short puck on it. I smeared a little anti-seize on the exposed aluminum and it slid right in.