Brisendines
Member
I would have preferred Timkin if I knew it was an option. Great to hear that the All Balls stuff is garbage after putting it in about 15k miles ago. At least I've acquired a press since then.
Oh yeah, there sure is! For me it was 2 things:Other than the notch test which I am aware, are there any other signs and symptoms associated with bad steering stem bearings? Just curious
The only complaints I've heard about over the yrs were during installation. IIRC there were 2 or 3 races that busted from pounding them on rather than cleaning/sanding/heating/freezing for a good fit. As far as I'm concerned if they crap out I'll try something else, and if not I'll be a satisfied customer.Odd that there didn't seem to be any issues being reported since AB was recommended as upgrades back on Gen 1 bikes. Did I miss the complaint threads?
Just curious, but were you able to see any obvious problem or wear with the original bearings that you took off?Zombie Thread Alert!
My bike has had the decel head shakes since I bought it last winter. New tires, tightening the steering nut didn’t help. So I decided it was time to commit to the some new bearings. Did some research, bought the all balls tapered steering bearings kit. Finished the install over the weekend, no more head shake. In fact I feel like the steering response has improved, just feels more stable overall to me.
Some notes on the installation. The bearings and races fit really tight. I have changed bearings before. I felt like they were a lot tighter than bearings I have changed in the past. It took some really healthy hammer hits to get everything in. I didn’t have to chisel the old race off. While grinding away at it with the dremmel tool, it cracked on its own. Use a metal pipe to beat on the new bearing. You’re not going to get enough power to it with PVC. The seals the all balls kit came with are ok. I ended up reusing the top OEM seal. It’s a much higher quality seal. If I had to do it over again, I would buy two OEM top seals for both. The tapered bearings are just a tick thicker than the OEM rollers. This gap was soaked up by the seal, both on the upper and lower head (yes the races were set fully). Change the fork oil while you have everything off. My fork oil was pretty dirty for only 12K miles. I ended up using Bel-Ray 10w oil.
Rides like new….. or as far as I can tell anyway.
The stock bearings looked brand new, even the grease was nice and clean.Just curious, but were you able to see any obvious problem or wear with the original bearings that you took off?
Thanks. That's what I found when I did mine years ago.The stock bearings looked brand new, even the grease was nice and clean.Just curious, but were you able to see any obvious problem or wear with the original bearings that you took off?
Bearings will have a number on them that typically can be used to cross-reference to other makes. I bought the All Balls set just so I could do the cross-reference, not intending to use them in the FJR. They are still sitting on my bench unopened. I will be going with Timken or SKF when I do get around to replacing these.I would have preferred Timkin if I knew it was an option. Great to hear that the All Balls stuff is garbage after putting it in about 15k miles ago. At least I've acquired a press since then.
Just the all balls sealsHello, I know this post is ancient but I have a question about this install that I cant seem to find the specifics for anywhere. My name is Rod and I am currently attempting this install on my 09 FJR. The question I have is about the seals on the bottom of the stem. Do I put the oem dust shield back, as well as the all balls seal? Or just the oem seal? Thank you for your time!
Thanks for the info! My project has been on hold for a month because I didnt want to make a mistake and have to do the work twice. Thanks again!Just the all balls seals
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