Installing Tapered Roller Bearings

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So how was 25lbs? I'm about to install a set of these for simlilar reasons. My stock **** is loose (again) 3rd time in 33k miles... :glare:
Oh and sans these bicycle tools ($85) to install a $30 set of bearings (crikees)... What's the best do it yourself method?
I bought the driver tool a long time ago to do this, and unless you can borrow one, I think it's money well spent. I read the threads about how people had to heat/cool the stem, take it to a shop to get it pressed on, and some that never got it fully seated. With this tool, a few whacks at room temp and everything was set.

Plus, it's a NEW TOOL. :dribble: You can't have too many.

I set my bearings by feel, after an initial torque. I did set them too loose at first and got a clunk during braking over bumps, so I tightened them up a bit more. With the front wheel off the ground, the bar should stay centered, but a gentle push should let the bar swing to the stop either way without drag.

 
What is the part number on the Timken steering head bearing kit? Where did you buy it?
Your dealer can order the kit for you.

ALLBALLS PART # 22-1003

Print Results

Steering Brg - Seal Kit

Distributor Name Distributor Reference #

Motovan 05-752

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Parts Unlimited 22-1003

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Tucker Rocky 41-6237

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KK 6700-391

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Global 8945186

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Thanks from east Tennessee will be doing the steering head this winter Am new to forum just bought an 08 AE FJR with 12k on it. Was doing a tech source search and saw the post from 2008 :yahoo:
 
So how was 25lbs? I'm about to install a set of these for simlilar reasons. My stock **** is loose (again) 3rd time in 33k miles... :glare:
Oh and sans these bicycle tools ($85) to install a $30 set of bearings (crikees)... What's the best do it yourself method?
I did the steering head bearings on my Madura recently; worst part was removing the bottom bearing from the stem. I ended up heating it with a torch and levering it up with chisels/pry bars. Next time I'm going to take the time to find or make a puller. Installation was easy, I just heated the new bearing with a bearing heater to 250 degrees and it dropped right on. To remove the old races from the steering head, I used a long punch, alternating blows from side to side. To install the new races in the steering head, I used 1/2" all thread rod and the appropriate size washers. The bottom race is recessed into the neck, so I used the old race to push it the rest of the way in. Every time I've had to change these bearings, I've always had to re adjust them a couple times in 500 or so miles when they work loose.

 
Apologies for dragging up an old thread, but I'm in the process of doing my Allballs conversion right now.

I too was wondering whether the OEM seals can be/should be used vs. the flimsy looking ones that come with the Allballs kit. Also when I just seat the Allballs seal on the bearing it seems like it is partially restricting movement due to a slight drag against the rubber part of the seal. I guess that's by design to ensure a good seal and it will wear itself in?

On the torque setting, it seems that around 35-40lb per-torque, with the final setting being around 15lb is the magic number? Just wondering how you guys have found your settings with time - still happy with 15lb?

 

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