Is the preload on the rear shock on a ES adequate ?

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Great write up, but I am not quite following. You start by saying that sag is only 1" with one helmet, and then continue to say that you measure it at almost 2" a few paragraphs down. Do you mean 1" before you saddle up, and then 2" with you in the saddle?
This is a mistake and I will fix the post.  What I meant to say is the sag is 1 inch with just the bike.  When I am on the bike the sag increases to [SIZE=11pt]1 15/16 inches at preload setting 1 aka Helmet only. Sorry about the confusion.[/SIZE]

Thanks for the compliments.  I put a lot of thought and effort into this.  I don't want to offend anyone, rather share my experience coming from performance suspension to the ES.  My post won't have as much meaning for a person who never had performance suspension.  It is also about preferences.  I like my bike on rails.  Until I had performance suspension the term "on rails" had no meaning to me.

 
Good write ups by those who have had experience with multiple versions of the FJR and more performance oriented.  I came from an 01 FZ-1 and never touched the suspension at all and went to the 2020ES.  I've ridden both the FZ-1 and the new FJR with my wife and feel that the FJR gives a much better ride in terms of comfort for sure.  Setting the FJR for 2-up and riding the same roads I've ridden with the FZ, much smoother, better control. 

 
I have a 2008 A with Ohlins front and back. I also have a 2015 AE (same as an ES). No matter what the electronic settings are, the AE does not handle or feel as planted on the road as the 2008 bike.

 
Regarding the non-linearity of the preload settings on an ES:  I noticed that phenomenon within the first couple times changing the setting.  For one thing, it takes much longer to change between 1up w/ bags to 2up than it does between the other two steps.  The other way it becomes obvious is when you change the preload setting while straddling the bike you can feel the height change of the saddle.  It changes fairly little when “adding bags”, but raises significantly when adding a passenger.  Which actually makes all the sense in the world since adding bags should only add ~ 40-50 lbs.  and adding a passenger would add 100-200 (or more) lbs.

Remember that the spring preload itself only changes the ride height.  It does not (can not) change the spring rate, so amount the rear end deflects down under a given added load will be the same, just from a higher unloaded starting height.  Likewise, changing only spring preload will not affect how much the suspension deflects when you hit a bump, just where in the stroke that movement happens.  However, changing the “preload” setting on an ES also shifts the range of damping selections in the appropriate direction, exactly how much has never been established except that there is some degree of overlap between preload selections.  Changing damping will affect how far the suspension deflects dynamically.

Im still very happy with the suspension of my 2014ES (with almost 50k miles on it) as compared to my old 2005 A model, fully upgraded with Penske and GP Suspension fork valving and single rate spring.  However, everyone’s individual goals when it comes to suspension means that there is no such thing as a “best” suspension for everyone.

 
Remember that the spring preload itself only changes the ride height.  It does not (can not) change the spring rate, so amount the rear end deflects down under a given added load will be the same, just from a higher unloaded starting height.  Likewise, changing only spring preload will not affect how much the suspension deflects when you hit a bump, just where in the stroke that movement happens.  However, changing the “preload” setting on an ES also shifts the range of damping selections in the appropriate direction, exactly how much has never been established except that there is some degree of overlap between preload selections.  Changing damping will affect how far the suspension deflects dynamically.
Hmmm...not sure I agree here. When you increase preload you actually get more spring to work with (you can feel the bike rise as you also state). This should result in a different deflection when you hit a bump - more spring "available" should mean more deflection as far as I see it. 

I didn't know that preload impacted the damping on the rear. You learn something new every day as they say...

 
@Mortenk - Yeah, that’s not the way springs work.  Any spring will deflect a given distance per amount of force applied throughout its entire length until it becomes spring bound.  
 

But even without that, when you add spring preload you are adding a spacer (or variable spring seat) under the spring.  If you have the same weight on the spring it will remain compressed exactly the same amount, but the spacer will raise the chassis.  That places the suspension travel in a different place in its total throw, but not the spring itself.

 
I have a 2008 A with Ohlins front and back. I also have a 2015 AE (same as an ES). No matter what the electronic settings are, the AE does not handle or feel as planted on the road as the 2008 bike.
Precisely. For me ES ~ Extra Sloppy.

 
I can’t put enough weight or thrash on an A or ES solo to have a problem, if things are properly adjusted. But Christ in a handcart, I sure can two-up on an A or ES. I had things dialed all the way up at EOM, and with me, the wife, and some other stuff, on the snake, BOTD, and, to a lesser extent, the BRP, it got bobby in the hard turns at speed. Nothing new. :)  

 
I  find the settings on my 15 ES to be entirely adequate with bike loaded up for a trip solo. I am about 250 lbs. Set at 2 helmets, std +3, is my normal setting. I set to soft-3 for slabbing, and go to hard +3 for serious twisties like the dragon or snake. I love the convenience of changing on the fly, and the changes are very noticeable. Everything about this 15 ES is superior to the 06 A model I bought new.

 
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