Is this a norm? Jerky at low RPM (1-2 rpm)

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Pretty sure that cover and hole have been the same from the FJR's inception until now. Why would it suddenly be a problem?

I'm with others. This is not a v-twin, and riding at 1-2k rpm is pushing the envelope of lugging the motor, depending on speed and gear. There could be a problem, but I'm betting it's rider error. Of course, I've been wrong before.

 
Break in, Ha! What break in? Ride it like you stole it. Worked for me and I got 90K on the 08. That being said you should not be having this issue. If it's under warranty have the dealer take a look at it.

Dave

 
There is no upper RPM limit during brake-in, only limits to sustained high RPM in two stages.

1) 0-1000 km (0-600mi) avoid prolonged operation above 4500 RPM.

2) 1000-1600km (600-1000 mi) avoid prolonged operation above 5400 RPM.

You can hit redline right off the showroom floor if you want. What I did was brisk acceleration getting on the freeway and varied RPM and loads. I didn't stay on the freeway very long, trying to avoid sustained RPM even though it was below the stated limits.

Dan

 
The one and only time my 2006 played up was during & after riding through a HUGE mega thunder storm, downpour, many years ago.It eventually came good but ran like crap for a few hours.

I put it down to the HV Corana effect (look it up) + the water caused high voltage shorting (High voltage discharging) on the plugs / leads.

In your cast the discharge would be the spark plug boots, being a COP.

Strewth the bike is under warranty , go the a stealer, and being a 2016 ya buggered trying to get the error codes or testing.

Maybe water on the ECU plug / socket, the coil over plugs are driven straight off the ECU, a very simple circuit.
i think you are right!!!

Today i just tested the bike again, at 5th gear, i was traveling at 20-40kmr, it act as normal!!!

is there any error log that will be stored in the ECU when they plug in n check?

Why are you riding at 2500 rpm ? That is just off idle and there is no throttle control or air moving down there. Lower engine speed and higher gear selection will usually produce some driveline jumping. I do not think TB service will do much on an engine designed to run between 4 and 8000 RPM. I personally use second gear when it's wet and I'm in traffic, throttle control and engine braking for me.
I just ram up to 4000rpm! it's nice! can feel the power!!! after this weekend, I will ram it up to 6000rpm!!! this is a beast!!! really feel like riding a sport bike again!!! :D I think I had made a right choice and changed from ST1100 to FJR1300. lucky I didn't change to ST1300!!!

 
I checked my error codes that night camping and there were no error codes from that event.

Error history is only as good so long as you check it and clear it on a regular basis.

With the early generations, real simple via the dash.

It could show a stored fault from 8 year ago.

I do not know what the dealer can access when they plug their tool in 2016 ???

Keep us posted on how the bike goes.

I wouldn't pay $$$$ just to find out what went wrong, they may just do it at service time ?

At the time it felt like a real bad misfire, bad throttle and a big loss of power like one or 2 cylinders not working correctly.

And as you said like running out of petrol.

I use dialectic grease to help lubricate the plug boots, also adds in high voltage resistance, repels water.

The one and only time my 2006 played up was during & after riding through a HUGE mega thunder storm, downpour, many years ago.It eventually came good but ran like crap for a few hours.

I put it down to the HV Corana effect (look it up) + the water caused high voltage shorting (High voltage discharging) on the plugs / leads.

In your cast the discharge would be the spark plug boots, being a COP.

Strewth the bike is under warranty , go the a stealer, and being a 2016 ya buggered trying to get the error codes or testing.

Maybe water on the ECU plug / socket, the coil over plugs are driven straight off the ECU, a very simple circuit.
i think you are right!!!
 
I checked my error codes that night camping and there were no error codes from that event.

Error history is only as good so long as you check it and clear it on a regular basis.

With the early generations, real simple via the dash.

It could show a stored fault from 8 year ago.

I do not know what the dealer can access when they plug their tool in 2016 ???

Keep us posted on how the bike goes.

I wouldn't pay $$$$ just to find out what went wrong, they may just do it at service time ?

At the time it felt like a real bad misfire, bad throttle and a big loss of power like one or 2 cylinders not working correctly.

And as you said like running out of petrol.

I use dialectic grease to help lubricate the plug boots, also adds in high voltage resistance, repels water.

The one and only time my 2006 played up was during & after riding through a HUGE mega thunder storm, downpour, many years ago.It eventually came good but ran like crap for a few hours.

I put it down to the HV Corana effect (look it up) + the water caused high voltage shorting (High voltage discharging) on the plugs / leads.

In your cast the discharge would be the spark plug boots, being a COP.

Strewth the bike is under warranty , go the a stealer, and being a 2016 ya buggered trying to get the error codes or testing.

Maybe water on the ECU plug / socket, the coil over plugs are driven straight off the ECU, a very simple circuit.
i think you are right!!!
update u guys this weekend. :)

i am starting to hate matte silver!!! I just saw another scratch at the fender!!! just next to my brake caliper!!! I think it was due to my bracelet when i was washing my bike!!!

 
I'd like to add my opinion to the group of "there may be no problem here". My bike is a dream, but she doesn't like riding below 3,000 rpm.

Riding at 1,000 to 2,000 rpm will be "lugging" the engine (don't know the actual term) and can actually be bad for engine, clutch, and drive train.

 
... Riding at 1,000 to 2,000 rpm will be "lugging" the engine (don't know the actual term) and can actually be bad for engine, clutch, and drive train.
Only if you open the throttle enough to do that. On a level road, from rest you can slowly engage the clutch at tickover speed in 1st, the bike will gently move from rest to about 8mph, and if your clutch is smooth and your clutch control good, you can do this without lugging the engine. Then you can gently open the throttle, the bike will accelerate. Keep it gentle, no lugging. Same in higher gears, but the higher the gear the more gentle you need to be. Snap the throttle open, though, you will hear and feel every thumping power stroke. Nasty feeling, likely would do damage if sustained, though I don't know of any real evidence of lugging-induced damage.
I'm in no way advocating that for normal riding, but in solid traffic it can be all that's needed to meander along. Or even if you're on your own just smelling the daisies. If you feel in any way threatened by traffic, then I'm all for having the revs higher to give immediate response. But if it's not needed, why rev the engine more than required? All it does is burn extra fuel and annoy more of the surrounding populace.

This is one of the advantages of your high capacity, high torque motor.

 
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Agree with Hud. Higher rpm's = less stress on the main bearing, more oil flow etc etc etc.

Just because you can do something (and the engine doesn't explode), does not mean that you should repeatedly do it.

These engines are tanks and nearly indestructible but riding around below 2k is not a great thing. 2500 plus and she will sound (and be) happy.

If it sounds or feels bad, it usually is. And the added fuel burn or noise is negligible.

Keep her in the sweet spot. Which is huge on an FJR. 3k to 9k. Anywhere in there and she is a happy girl.

 
I checked my error codes that night camping and there were no error codes from that event.

Error history is only as good so long as you check it and clear it on a regular basis.

With the early generations, real simple via the dash.

It could show a stored fault from 8 year ago.

I do not know what the dealer can access when they plug their tool in 2016 ???

Keep us posted on how the bike goes.

I wouldn't pay $$$$ just to find out what went wrong, they may just do it at service time ?

At the time it felt like a real bad misfire, bad throttle and a big loss of power like one or 2 cylinders not working correctly.

And as you said like running out of petrol.

I use dialectic grease to help lubricate the plug boots, also adds in high voltage resistance, repels water.

The one and only time my 2006 played up was during & after riding through a HUGE mega thunder storm, downpour, many years ago.

It eventually came good but ran like crap for a few hours.

I put it down to the HV Corana effect (look it up) + the water caused high voltage shorting (High voltage discharging) on the plugs / leads.

In your cast the discharge would be the spark plug boots, being a COP.

Strewth the bike is under warranty , go the a stealer, and being a 2016 ya buggered trying to get the error codes or testing.

Maybe water on the ECU plug / socket, the coil over plugs are driven straight off the ECU, a very simple circuit.
i think you are right!!!
update u guys this weekend.
smile.png
i am starting to hate matte silver!!! I just saw another scratch at the fender!!! just next to my brake caliper!!! I think it was due to my bracelet when i was washing my bike!!!
You will soon learn, Never wash your bike. That is what the Rain is for. It's made of plastic, aluminum and Stainless steel. No worries, Just RIDE.

Happy Riding,

Dave

 
As mcatrophy stated -- and I paraphrase -- don't ride your motorbike at low rpms, it can damage the FJR innards.

Try riding your 2016 at 6,000 rpm in Sport Mode. That will give you a completely new perspective on throttle response.

Remember that your red line is .... well, I don't know what an Singaporean FJR red line is, but it's got to be WAY UP THERE. I encourage you to do most of your riding halfway between 0 rpm and your red line. That's well within the FJR's limits, and will not damage anything.

And I repeat: I think there is nothing wrong here.

 
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As mcatrophy stated -- and I paraphrase -- don't ride your motorbike at low rpms, it can damage the FJR innards.
Try riding your 2016 at 6,000 rpm in Sport Mode. That will give you a completely new perspective on throttle response.

Remember that your red line is .... well, I don't know what an Singaporean FJR red line is, but it's got to be WAY UP THERE. I encourage you to do most of your riding halfway between 0 rpm and your red line. That's well within the FJR's limits, and will not damage anything.

And I repeat: I think there is nothing wrong here.
i tried till 4000rpm and it was great!!! on 1st gear, if i pull, i think i will wheelie!!! :D but will do it if i go overseas!!!

 
As mcatrophy stated -- and I paraphrase -- don't ride your motorbike at low rpms, it can damage the FJR innards....
Talk about quoting out of context! I said that there is nothing wrong with using low revs provided you don't use much throttle. And I absolutely stick by that.
I was out today, took a video, this is a part. I was on cruise control, doing a GPS 28mph in top gear. Sound quality is awful (in the old-fashioned meaning of the word), but you can hear enough to know the engine isn't under any stress. And it's pretty smooth at its 1500rpm, even at the end when accelerating (gently ;) )



Graph of speed taken from video's GPS log file:

MOV_0868_speedchart.png


 
My apologies. I deleted a section of my post that would have perhaps clarified my paraphrasing.

As a commuter, I often ride in elbow-to-elbow traffic at 10 mph or lower. That's well below 3,000 rpm in second gear, and may also be in that rpm range in first gear. Under those conditions, blipping the throttle will cause the jerkiness described by the OP and cause unnecessary strain on the engine, clutch, and drive train.

That's why I think there is no problem with the bike, and offered the advice to drive above 3,000 rpm.

Your video and graph offer great data, but certainly do not reflect normal driving conditions .... or do you actually drive like that?

 
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My apologies. I deleted a section of my post that would have perhaps clarified my paraphrasing.
As a commuter, I often ride in elbow-to-elbow traffic at 10 mph or lower. That's well below 3,000 rpm in second gear, and may also be in that rpm range in first gear. Under those conditions, blipping the throttle will cause the jerkiness described by the OP and cause unnecessary strain on the engine, clutch, and drive train.

That's why I think there is no problem with the bike, and offered the advice to drive above 3,000 rpm.

Your video and graph offer great data, but certainly do not reflect normal driving conditions .... or do you actually drive like that?
Light traffic, 30mph road, unlikely to be able to (or need to) do anything but amble along. So yes, occasionally I do drive like that.
Earlier in that run I was moving a bit faster, but the video isn't yet prepared for putting to my video server, maybe in a couple of days. You can have a look at some of my other videos to see how I sometimes drive :) . Try this one (chosen at random). It starts on the same road but the opposite direction, and gets going after about a minute into the video.



 
like what ken has stated, it should be the heavy rain that caused the ECU or the plug to misfire.

hopefully there is a error log that the workshop will be able to get it out.

 
If heavy rain is the issue, please let us know.

 
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If heavy rain is the issue, please let us know.
Please let us all know.

As I mentioned in my prior post, I checked the error codes that night when I arrived at my accommodation.

There were none, and like yourself was somewhat concerned by the event.

I did find a few similar cases on other bike forums a few weeks later.

I've ridden through a lot of rain events and nothing similar has ever happened.

Be interesting to hear what Yamaha's tool will tell you.

 
I checked my error codes that night camping and there were no error codes from that event.

Error history is only as good so long as you check it and clear it on a regular basis.

With the early generations, real simple via the dash.

It could show a stored fault from 8 year ago.

I do not know what the dealer can access when they plug their tool in 2016 ???

Keep us posted on how the bike goes.

I wouldn't pay $$$$ just to find out what went wrong, they may just do it at service time ?

At the time it felt like a real bad misfire, bad throttle and a big loss of power like one or 2 cylinders not working correctly.

And as you said like running out of petrol.

I use dialectic grease to help lubricate the plug boots, also adds in high voltage resistance, repels water.

The one and only time my 2006 played up was during & after riding through a HUGE mega thunder storm, downpour, many years ago.It eventually came good but ran like crap for a few hours.

I put it down to the HV Corana effect (look it up) + the water caused high voltage shorting (High voltage discharging) on the plugs / leads.

In your cast the discharge would be the spark plug boots, being a COP.

Strewth the bike is under warranty , go the a stealer, and being a 2016 ya buggered trying to get the error codes or testing.

Maybe water on the ECU plug / socket, the coil over plugs are driven straight off the ECU, a very simple circuit.
i think you are right!!!
update u guys this weekend.
smile.png


i am starting to hate matte silver!!! I just saw another scratch at the fender!!! just next to my brake caliper!!! I think it was due to my bracelet when i was washing my bike!!!
Real men do not wear jewelry when cleaning their motorbike!!!

 
If heavy rain is the issue, please let us know.
Please let us all know.

As I mentioned in my prior post, I checked the error codes that night when I arrived at my accommodation.

There were none, and like yourself was somewhat concerned by the event.

I did find a few similar cases on other bike forums a few weeks later.

I've ridden through a lot of rain events and nothing similar has ever happened.

Be interesting to hear what Yamaha's tool will tell you.
additional items to state would be, I had washed my bike by the car washing shop, they used jet spray to wash my bike. after that, i did rest awhile as it was raining after the wash, when i set off, it was normal, then a heavy rain pour, and i got that issue. update you all on sat evening.

 
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