Just Me and Pop

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Excellent Ride report and photos Redfish!!Really enjoying it!!

Thanks for sharing with us!!
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This is the point that comes along in every ride, the point where you know you better point the bike back in the general direction of home. I had maps of West Virginia and Virginia, I had hopes of seeing something of both of those states. Sadly, those plans are on the shelf for now.

Still, things were going really well. Pop was relaxed, happy, comfortable and confident. He was enjoying his FJR more than ever and was not tired and grouchy at the end of the day.

Here, a big public thank you for my friend hppants.

hppants gave me the inspiration for this trip with his excellent RR from last fall. Once I read that I knew more about Kentucky and the surrounding area than before. I realized that Kentucky has a great deal to offer a motorcyclist.

The other thing I want to thank hppants for is just letting me and Pop follow him around from time to time. Pop realized that many of the little things that used to worry him and slow him down are of no consequence. Following 'pants around has taught Pop to have confidence in his tires and his chassis. These are lessons that I was not able to teach on my own. I believe that one of the best ways to learn is to follow a better rider. Therefore, I follow hppants whenever I can.

Joey, you may not realize it but you have made us better, safer riders. You have increased our enjoyment of every ride we've taken since we started following you. Your name comes up every single day Pop and I ride, and plenty of days when we don't ride.

You still scare the hell out of us though.
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Back on topic:

I sat down with my maps and plotted a route toward Gatlinburg Tennessee. I decided that since I love the Smokies and the Cherohala Skyway and since all that just happened to be between me and home... Well, why not pass through there?

So, Pop went to bed happy and satisfied with his wonderful day. I went to bed a bit miserable because there was just not enough time to see it all.

 
Keep Pops happy at this point in time, my friend. You will have plenty of time later to keep yourself happy.

 
Day 5, Wednesday Sept. 6th

On our way to breakfast we ran across Chris and Jerry. Jerry was the guy on the borrowed BMW and Chris owned both bikes. He was curious about our FJR/ST1300 comparison. He was under the impression that the ST1300 was by far the better bike and the more comfortable one also. Where do these folks get this information?

After a very good breakfast we worked our way back out to Hwy 23 and pointed our noses South. Pop was rolling along completely happy but I was sick to my stomach over not getting to ride all those wonderful roads. As we rolled along and chatted about the road, the ride, the high points, and how much we had enjoyed it, I began to feel better. Pop pointed out two very important things.

1. The trip is NOT over until we get home and the roads between here and there are going to be great.
2. That just leaves more fun roads for next time.

Hwy 23 took us across the border into Virginia and was actually a very pleasant ride. Sometimes a wide open 4 lane that allows you to see the country around you while still offering long high speed sweepers is a good thing. This was one of those times. Pop seemed so happy back there that I could not help but enjoy myself also.

As we sped South on Hwy 23 through VA I noticed a sign for "Natural Tunnel State Park". I remembered that from hppants' RR last year and decided it was time for a short break anyway. We decided to check it out.

I hate hppants. I hate him and hate anybody that does not hate him. That sorry #$%@ is probably still laughing over the misery that he put us through.

It is about 12 miles down the side of that gully and then it is 112 miles back to the top. Really.







About this point is where Pop began to remind me that he was almost 70 years old. I reminded him that he was 11 and a half months away from 70, he still had a ways to go. He bitched and threatened and fussed and... Finally, we made it to the bottom.





We had almost decided it was worth the trip. But we still had to climb the 3,672 miles back up!

Pop and I were both huffing and puffing by the time we got to the top. I told him that we had to do it all one more time but this time we had to run the whole way. He told me I had better start running if I wanted to live...

Pop did admit that it was worth the effort. I reminded him that there are plenty of folks much younger than him that did not have the stamina to make a climb like that. He responded that he was not ready for the nursing home just yet. Good. That is how I want him to think.

We crossed another border and found ourselves in Tennessee. I kept us pointed West by South West and the miles were clicking off pretty good. I began to feel pretty good about my routing and realized we would easily make Gatlinburg that evening. I could hear the happiness in Pop's voice as we rode along and he was seeing all sorts of new things. The good thing about happiness is that it is contagious. I was feeling pretty happy myself.

 
I turned 44 in June, Pop turned 69 in August. He started trying to act like an old person and I did not like it. This trip was partially to remind him of the difference between old people and determined people. As my little story unfolds and we jump a few more hurdles, you will see that Pop remembered that he was not quite ready for a nursing home.
At our hotel in Gatlinburg I spoke to an old man. I am just guessing but I would put him in his late 60s. Between puffs of his cigarette he said, "I used to ride but now I am too old. I just got too old to do that. I am not sure I could hold a bike up anymore." He asked me who was riding with me on the other bike. I told him it was for my father. With that streak of meanness that I cannot always control I told him that Dad was just 69 so he probably only had another 10 years or so on a bike. I am pretty sure I pissed him off.
I have come to grips with being "old", but I actually dislike "old people". I'm sure many of you will understand the distinction.

 
I really enjoyed your ride report Redfish. I have never been east of the Mississippi river and the pictures give me an idea of what I am missing. Thanks for the time spent to prepare this great report.

I lost my parents quite a few years ago and wish I had spent more time with them. One of the biggest regrets I have is not asking questions of their early lives as they continually pop into my mind.

You are a good son and will appreciate the time spent with your father in the future.

 
We took Hwy 11W out of Kingsport TN then Hwy 32 South. We turned onto Hwy 321 heading South West and we were rapidly approaching Gatlinburg. We took a brief break from following slow Harleys and took a run up the Foothills Parkway (The one on the East side of Gatlinburg). A pretty little parkway that allowed us to lean the bikes and clean the dirt off our side treads.



I took this time to stop, arrange for a hotel in Gatlinburg and plan the rest of the day. Since it was so early and we were not ready to go sit in the hotel room, we decided to ride into Great Smokies National Park. I figured we would ride down to the border, turn up the road to Clingman's Dome and take that ride. I had never ridden that road on a motorcycle although I have wanted to for some time. Driving it in the truck is not as much fun.

Traffic in the park sucks. The park attracts and holds Stupid. Lots of stupid. The air is filled with the sweet smell of overheated brakes. Lots of stupid. Lots of inconsiderate.

So, we get stuck behind a Maxima that is stuck behind a white Dodge pickup. There are signs everywhere telling SLOW traffic to use the pulloffs. Nobody ever reads those signs or else they don't give a ****. The Dodge driver obviously did not care or could not read. I am fussing and Pop reminds me we are supposed to be having fun.

When we took the complete circle turn where the road runs under itself we actually had some corner speed going. Headed South this is a decreasing radius left hander and both of us were leaned over pretty far and laughing about it. The traffic coming at us is bumper to bumper and not moving very fast. Then, I hear tires squealing and I can't figure where it is coming from. Before I had time to react, one of the oncoming cars starts crossing the center line. I could see the front wheels are turned and sliding, and I could see it was brown, and I could see it was getting into my lane. I barely had time to twitch the bars and it was behind me. In my left mirror where just seconds before I could see the FJR all I could see was brown paint and red brake lights. So where the Hell was Pop? He was in that space and he could not have had time to evade... But wait, there was a flicker of movement in the right mirror! I saw a flash of the fork mounted LED and then sparks from the foot peg area. Pop's voice was still in my headset but I honestly cannot remember what was said on either side. I still don't know how Pop had room to make his little maneuver.

It was over and done in seconds but I got scared. I had almost lost Pop to some ******* who should never have been driving in the mountains. Pop was still laughing and was completely calm, I was badly shaken. I still could not see how he was able to pick the bike up and then lean it back over far enough to make the turn.

His answer was, "Well I was running out of room. I leaned it back over until the peg stopped folding up and I was grinding **** that did not move. I just held it steady there and hoped the curve would end before I ran out of road. No need to get upset now, it's over."

When we made the turn to Clingman's Dome, the Maxima went straight but the white Dodge turned up the road I wanted to take. At the exact instant that I decided to make an illegal pass I heard the deep roar of the FJR behind me and Pop's one word command, "GO!" Riding a big bore Sport Tourer has its advantages. We enjoyed that road about as much as anyone ever did.

As we approached the summit parking lot the clouds closed in and there was nothing to see except gray fog. I was pretty sure Pop did not want to make the half mile walk up to the summit anyway. I sure was not going to do it if I could not see anything. I made it to the gift shop to buy a coffee mug for Mrs. Redfish and we headed back to Gatlinburg.

Of course, we got behind a slow car. A little white compact nothing car that could not stay in its lane and could not do the speed limit and could not pull over to let us pass. Soon enough we all got behind a PT Cruiser convertible that immediately pulled over to let us pass. I figured that would be a lesson for the doofus in front of me but some folks are just too stupid to learn. We got stuck behind an ever longer parade of slowness and crawled through the park so slowly I thought I would have to drag my feet.

 
Enjoying the report and wishing I was there again. In all seriousness, the Southeastern Kentucky/Southwestern Virginia/Tennessee/North Carolina border area (i.e. - the Cumberland Gap area) is really special stuff.

R/H - a nice walk in the hills keeps the knees lubricated. Next time I see your dad, I'll be sure to tell him that just before we take off on another riding stint. Hopefully, he won't catch me before the next stop and by then, he has forgotten it all together!!!

 
Rt. 441 through the Park can be a real PIA on weekends in the leaf peeping season-bumper to bumper and crawling. And you're right about the lack of consideration a lot of the cagers exhibit. If I'm leaving Gatlinburg when I know it's going to be busy, I'll leave early and try to beat the rush. For some reason, when I turn off of 441 onto the southern leg of the BRP, it seems I lose 1/2 to 2/3 of the traffic that was on 441. I've never been able to figure that out; the BRP is as scenic (or more so) than 441 through the park, IMHO. Great RR and pictures, glad you and your Dad had an enjoyable trip and your Dad was able to dodge the idiots.

 
Superb!

Nice dedication to your Pops and a great RR to entertain us neanderthals! Many thanks, if you drank... I'd buy you some rounds in a heartbeat :)

It would of been great to do this with my father, cherish it even during the frustrated moments. Love that dead end (but ferry) road and all the other great scenery as well. Your top case doesn't look that bad either, but I do agree with you that ST bikes look better without one.

Well it sure looked like a grand time, and to be able to share it with your Dad? ...is priceless.

Cheers with a Coke and a smile (hey, since you don't drink, eh!)

 
Oh, I do sip a bit from time to time. In fact I had several on this trip.
I'm losing my purity-saint impression of you RFH!!

..JK :)

I'm doing the upper Trace (Next Weds 9/24) as one of the days into EOM (from NAFO) as Stan has both Memphis and Nashville on his bucket list, so there we will go.

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That is by far the best part of it but you are going to have to exceed the speed limit to really enjoy it.
What's it tagged at 45? I've got Radar and usually cruise around 10 above (if I'm paying attention) ;) ...but maybe all the critters have me more worried; as you mentioned a lot of them.

 
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It's all good guys. I should actually start trying to include route maps because I want some of this to act as a travel guide for others.

The Natchez Trace is 50 mph for most of the way but drops to 40 at certain intersections and drops to 40 at the extreme North end. For most of the Trace we would need to be running about 100mph for the curves to be challenging but on the North End, it gets much tighter and more fun.

 
Hey KJ, go start your own thread, Hijacker!
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Now, Redfish, where were we?

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It's related as I'm inquiring about a stretch he did in 'this' report.
I'm just bustin' your balls, man. But, I didn't think it would be that easy. Are you a sensitive guy, or something?
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Now go start your own thread!

 
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