KrZy8 down n out?

Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum

Help Support Yamaha FJR Motorcycle Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Per Woofooshe's and other's excellent recommendations -

  • Drained coolant
  • Drained old oil
  • Changed oil filter
  • Added fresh clean non-contaminated oil
  • Removed sparking plugs
  • Spun her over using 15 second bursts x3 then let her sit for 10 minutes then repeat process 4x
  • Fogged cylinders using LPS #1.
  • Re-installed plugs finger tight


Hopefully this will help prevent corrosion issues due to coolant in oil..

KrZy8 will sit for at least a month before Kr. KD can attend to her..

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Just a thought, but the coolant was drained, then the oil was changed and circulated through the engine, and the cylinders fogged as an extra precaution. The oil has minimal if any contamination, and it is confined to the sump. Even if there is water, it is at the lowest level of the sump based on density relative to oil. What's the harm in leaving it?

It's Friday, feel free to hose me if I'm not being cautious enough, but I can't imagine this being a priority.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
We want him to pump the oil through the engine, to flush any water remaining from bearing surfaces, rings, tranny gears, and the like. It's not just what sits in the sump, it's what's been left on the surfaces. Drain, run it through, then another drain and run it through, rinsing everything everywhere.

 
I guess the real question is how much starter motor spin time is required to generate oil pressure? I know the Harley can run for almost a minute before oil pressure indicates. My Ford F250 w/ 460 gas motor can run for almost 30 - 45 seconds before pressure indicates. In both cases, with pressure measured by pressure gauge, not ***** light.

How long should I run the starter motor to generate pressure yet not cause starter motor damage?

EDIT -

No worries about 'wasting' oil. I'll run this 'used' oil in less engines around the property.. They will easily burn any water contamination off... ;)

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I was thinking you'd leave the plugs in and go ahead and run it. 15 or 20 seconds would circulate oil, and it won't be running anywhere near long enough to do any heat damage, not by a long shot.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Daaaaammmmmm ! I don't kmow how you can remain so calm, I'd have shot that pony and moved on ! Screw the

200Kclub :rolleyes: , sorry bud, but I think that bike has bad juju :blink: ( hey someone had to be honest say it ;) )

 
Daaaaammmmmm ! I don't kmow how you can remain so calm, I'd have shot that pony and moved on ! Screw the

200Kclub :rolleyes: , sorry bud, but I think that bike has bad juju :blink: ( hey someone had to be honest say it ;) )
150k is a lot of miles... That engine/bike owes me nothing! :lol:

 
Just a thought, but the coolant was drained, then the oil was changed and circulated through the engine, and the cylinders fogged as an extra precaution. The oil has minimal if any contamination, and it is confined to the sump. Even if there is water, it is at the lowest level of the sump based on density relative to oil. What's the harm in leaving it?

It's Friday, feel free to hose me if I'm not being cautious enough, but I can't imagine this being a priority.
We want him to pump the oil through the engine, to flush any water remaining from bearing surfaces, rings, tranny gears, and the like. It's not just what sits in the sump, it's what's been left on the surfaces. Drain, run it through, then another drain and run it through, rinsing everything everywhere.
Gunny wfooshee!
That water was well mixed into a lathering goop of oil coolant mess and circulate throughout the motor. I bet you didn't think oil and water mixes, it does, sort of, and makes a mess.

If it was me, and I'm a little... ok, a lot strange, I would have left the plugs in, drained the coolant and fired that puppy for about 10 +/- seconds. Let it cool (it's pretty cold up there) an hour or so and do it a few more times. It aint going to do squat to the motor IMHO with no water for a few seconds.

You're fine Don, keep us posted. ;)

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Just a thought, but the coolant was drained, then the oil was changed and circulated through the engine, and the cylinders fogged as an extra precaution. The oil has minimal if any contamination, and it is confined to the sump. Even if there is water, it is at the lowest level of the sump based on density relative to oil. What's the harm in leaving it?

It's Friday, feel free to hose me if I'm not being cautious enough, but I can't imagine this being a priority.
We want him to pump the oil through the engine, to flush any water remaining from bearing surfaces, rings, tranny gears, and the like. It's not just what sits in the sump, it's what's been left on the surfaces. Drain, run it through, then another drain and run it through, rinsing everything everywhere.
Gunny wfooshee!
That water was well mixed into a lathering goop of oil coolant mess and circulate throughout the motor. I bet you didn't think oil and water mixes, it does, sort of, and makes a mess.

If it was me, and I'm a little... ok, a lot strange, I would have left the plugs in, drained the coolant and fired that puppy for about 10 +/- seconds. Let it cool (it's pretty cold up there) an hour or so and do it a few more times. It ain’t going to do squat to the motor IMHO with no water for a few seconds.

You're fine Don, keep us posted. ;)
Completely agree with all the above. If I were doing it, I would watch the oil level in the sight glass as it drops and base the run periods on that. When the sump has been pumped out it's time to stop and wait for the next cycle (when the oil level has stabilised at the full position YMMV

Don

 
I was thinking you'd leave the plugs in and go ahead and run it. 15 or 20 seconds would circulate oil, and it won't be running anywhere near long enough to do any heat damage, not by a long shot.
+1

running it for 40 seconds won't hurt anything. The first few seconds will be needed to fill the new filter before oil gets to brgs.

 
Gunny wfooshee!That water was well mixed into a lathering goop of oil coolant mess and circulate throughout the motor. I bet you didn't think oil and water mixes, it does, sort of, and makes a mess.If it was me, and I'm a little... ok, a lot strange, I would have left the plugs in, drained the coolant and fired that puppy for about 10 +/- seconds. Let it cool (it's pretty cold up there) an hour or so and do it a few more times. It ain’t going to do squat to the motor IMHO with no water for a few seconds.You're fine Don, keep us posted. ;)
I agree. I will add,though, that my 'cranking procedure' described earlier did in fact lower the oil level in the sight glass so me thinks pressure developed and parts coated with fresh oil. Having said that, I do like the idea of running it a *bit* with current oil and also with fresh oil. Better safe than sorry and all that.. :)

never have before, might I might be tempted to do the "Seafoam" added to the oil cleanse...best to you Don and the old lady bike :)
I was wondering about that, was going to read the can, then got distracted..
Well, off to town for oil and SeaFoam and a wing and a prayer.

Have I mentioned lately how much fun it is run Wabs again as my 'daily' bike? :lol:

 
never have before, might I might be tempted to do the "Seafoam" added to the oil cleanse...

best to you Don and the old lady bike :)
Don't know whether i would try the Seafoam treatment on the oil or not (no experience with it either). My concern is what it might do to the wet clutch? Anyone tried it?

Ross

 
Holy Cow! Good to see you out and about posting. You have been awfully quiet for a long time.
Thank you! Been too busy with other things, mostly bicycle 3 short hours a day when I'm not at work. Takes away from internet time. Getting ready to do my second annual Climb to Kaiser. Finished last year, but not strong. Looking to knock at least an hour off my time this year. The ultimate goal is to be the first guy my age or older to finish, but for now, I'd love to just finish ahead of the girls...

Hey Don,

If the head is removed, at least on a Gen I, you're supposed to use new bolts to put it back on. Did that happen? The head might have gotten loose. You already had a head gasket problem? I see why you like Harleys...
Not to change the subject, but does your avatar indicate that you are a Felt rider? I'll be taking a spin on my F2 tomorrow morning. Good to see another muscle powered crank turner on board here.

 
With coolant drained, flush #1 oil in crankcase, fired her up and let run for maybe a minute. Waited 15 or so, ran for another minute then drained oil, removed filter. It came out chocolate and frothy, so a very good call wfooshe, to perform the flush twice.

New filter and cheap oil, ran for another minute, this time the oil looks like it should. I might do one more flush just to be sure.

 
With coolant drained, flush #1 oil in crankcase, fired her up and let run for maybe a minute. Waited 15 or so, ran for another minute then drained oil, removed filter. It came out chocolate and frothy, so a very good call wfooshe, to perform the flush twice.

New filter and cheap oil, ran for another minute, this time the oil looks like it should. I might do one more flush just to be sure.
Oil's cheap, mains and rods aren't. Do it.

 
Top