Leaking fluid, fork or clutch....

[Drew]

I ran my homemade sealmate around the fork 3 or 4 times but I still have an oil residue on the fork above the seal after a ride, so the sealmate try didn't appear to fix it.

I've decided I'll go with a fork seal repair, with a spring upgrade, and was recommended to go with a .90 (170 lbs, mostly solo). He never mentioned the gold valves, not sure whether to go with those as well, cost is a big factor and the Race Tech website is showing another $400, which I'm not all in for. I'm not an agressive rider, don't figure I'll start either.

What kind of cost were you fellas running into when going with the spring and gold valve upgrade?

 

[Fred W]

Drew,

Your homemade sealmate may not be thick enough to catch all of the road spooge from the crevice of the seal's lips. I made mine out of a cut-up milk bottle, which is considerably thicker than 35mm film, and it worked fine.

You will also need to remove (or slide up) the dust seal before trying to clean the oil seal. It sounds like maybe you haven't been popping out the dust seal.

Once you think that have cleaned the seal of all debris, you need to pump the fork leg, then wipe the fine deposit of oil off the stanchion tube with a clean rag. Repeat several times (pump, wipe, pump, wipe) to reseat the seal, and eventually the leg will become dry if you've got all the gunk out. If not, try cleaning it again with the sealmate. If you can't get it clean on the bike, would suggest that you first remove the fork leg from the bike and do the seal mate cleaning again on the workbench for better access to get all the way around the seal.

Here's a

that explains the process on an FJR.
There is no way in hell that a set of fork seals are worn out in 10-20k miles. The original seals are still in my forks with > 75k miles (after cleaning them with my homebrew sealmate once) and still doing fine. The biggest trick is keeping dirt off the stationary fork tubes as much as possible.

 

[odot]

Oh, my.......I hope it wasn't a baby seal..........

Drew,
Your homemade sealmate may not be thick enough to catch all of the road spooge from the crevice of the seal's lips.

 

[Drew]

Drew,
Your homemade sealmate may not be thick enough to catch all of the road spooge from the crevice of the seal's lips. I made mine out of a cut-up milk bottle, which is considerably thicker than 35mm film, and it worked fine.

I can try that, won't be hard to cut one out.

You will also need to remove (or slide up) the dust seal before trying to clean the oil seal. It sounds like maybe you haven't been popping out the dust seal.

My problem is not being able to move the fork guard, protector, whatever it's called, which is already removed in the video you linked. How did you move it other than cutting it off like Bluesman? It'll spin and move, but I can't get it to move up and out of the way.

Once you think that have cleaned the seal of all debris, you need to pump the fork leg, then wipe the fine deposit of oil off the stanchion tube with a clean rag. Repeat several times (pump, wipe, pump, wipe) to reseat the seal, and eventually the leg will become dry if you've got all the gunk out. If not, try cleaning it again with the sealmate. If you can't get it clean on the bike, would suggest that you first remove the fork leg from the bike and do the seal mate cleaning again on the workbench for better access to get all the way around the seal.
Here's a

I did the fork pumping several times, but may not have been getting to where I needed to with the sealmate to start. I watched the video before I tried anything, it's all easy enough but I've pried on the fork protector enough and it's starting to look like crap around the edge.

Thanks Fred.

 

[gixxerjasen]

It's a pain in the rear but that fork protector WILL work out. I used a flathead very carefully working my way around it. Huge pain but it will come out.

 

[900gc]

I ran my homemade sealmate around the fork 3 or 4 times but I still have an oil residue on the fork above the seal after a ride, so the sealmate try didn't appear to fix it.
I've decided I'll go with a fork seal repair, with a spring upgrade, and was recommended to go with a .90 (170 lbs, mostly solo). He never mentioned the gold valves, not sure whether to go with those as well, cost is a big factor and the Race Tech website is showing another $400, which I'm not all in for. I'm not an agressive rider, don't figure I'll start either.

What kind of cost were you fellas running into when going with the spring and gold valve upgrade?

About $900 for me when all said and done. You would notice the better damping characteristics the Gold Valves offer even as an "average" rider, though granted, they become even more appreciated as the pace picks up in the twisties. A better feeling and behaving fork is better no matter how one rides. If you are happy enough with the stock fork as is, once rebuilt, you will be happy still. Because I enjoy and utilize the benefits the Gold Valves bring to my riding, the $400 was worth it.

 

[Bustanut joker]

Or for less than a C note you can buy new seals, guides, and oil... If you have the forks off the job is half done already.

 

[RedPorscheKilla]

Your '07 is due for a fork redo. I had a similar problem and mine is in the same ages and mileage than yours. You will have to replace the seals, bushings and what not. Since the fork job was due on my FeeJay and went ahead and ordered my a fork upgrade from KFG Racing....

V

RPK

 

[Fred W]

Drew,
Your homemade sealmate may not be thick enough to catch all of the road spooge from the crevice of the seal's lips. I made mine out of a cut-up milk bottle, which is considerably thicker than 35mm film, and it worked fine.

I can try that, won't be hard to cut one out.

You will also need to remove (or slide up) the dust seal before trying to clean the oil seal. It sounds like maybe you haven't been popping out the dust seal.

My problem is not being able to move the fork guard, protector, whatever it's called, which is already removed in the video you linked. How did you move it other than cutting it off like Bluesman? It'll spin and move, but I can't get it to move up and out of the way.

I did the fork pumping several times, but may not have been getting to where I needed to with the sealmate to start. I watched the video before I tried anything, it's all easy enough but I've pried on the fork protector enough and it's starting to look like crap around the edge.

Thanks Fred.

Yeah, it sounds like you aren't really cleaning the oil seal yet, just the dust seal, if you haven't even got the protectors off yet. You can try warming the protector a little with a hair dryer or heater gun to make it more flexible. But go easy on the heat, you don't want to overheat the seals. They should just pry up and off.

I don't have the protectors on mine. The PO put on a fork brace which means you have to remove the protectors. I sold the fork brace and now I have NOJ neoprene fork tube protectors installed. I like them quite a lot for keeping the crud out of the seals.

 

[odot]

Note: No baby seals were hurt in this thread.

 

[LAF]

Note: No baby seals were hurt in this thread.

But did the seal have a new battery?