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LED 4 Emitter H4 Buy

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. Especially if I have to trim something. Since I've never had my lights out, exactly what does trimming the boot mean?
You have to cut the center out of the boot. They are made to fit tightly around the base of an H4 bulb. The LED has a larger diameter in that area, plus it has a big fan where the H4 has terminals. So you cut out the inner ring (it's easy) and slip it onto the new bulb before you fit the H4 adaptor to the LED and before you fit the bulb into the reflector.

That is what makes it difficult to manipulate the retaining spring, but it does go in and the fit is good.

 
It would be nice if the LED bulb manufacturers made the fan housing detachable, so that it slips onto the bulb section mating with the terminals on the led bulb section. That would make this whole installation thing a total breeze.

I have had to deal with the boot cutting etc on HID Hi/Lo bulbs before and it is a royal pain in the arse..

 
I'm in on this. I've been wanting LED headlights for a while, so taking the plunge.

Now I just have to wait until they arrive. Ugh. I'm so conditioned for immediate gratification!

 
I'm in on this. I've been wanting LED headlights for a while, so taking the plunge.
Now I just have to wait until they arrive. Ugh. I'm so conditioned for immediate gratification!
If you want in on the pre-order price..

"If you're interested in getting in on the deal, please email sales <at> ledrider.com and reference this post, along with the number of units, color desired and shipping address. Payment will be via PayPal."

Price will go up a tad when they are in stock, which is about 2 weeks out.

 
I'm very interested in this. For one thing, one of my old bulbs just went out, so I either need to buy a pair of Silver Stars or try these, and I'd be willing to try these and report back. But . . .

But--just need a little reassurance. Can one of you electrical wizards tell me, is this a "plug and play" replacement for whatever bulbs I've got in there right now? I don't mind trimming some rubber, but that's about it. No ballasts or anything? No extra wiring or connections? Just put 'em in those little holes and go? High and low beams work just the same? If all that's the case, I'll be ordering a pair. The higher price isn't a deterrent if they offer the extra life that other LEDs do over incandescents.

 
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I'm very interested in this. For one thing, one of my old bulbs just went out, so I either need to buy a pair of Silver Stars or try these, and I'd be willing to try these and report back. But . . .
But--just need a little reassurance. Can one of you electrical wizards tell me, is this a "plug and play" replacement for whatever bulbs I've got in there right now? I don't mind trimming some rubber, but that's about it. No ballasts or anything? No extra wiring or connections? Just put 'em in those little holes and go? High and low beams work just the same? If all that's the case, I'll be ordering a pair. The higher price isn't a deterrent if they offer the extra life that other LEDs do over incandescents.
More or less, yes.

You have minimal assembly, just fitting the correct adaptor ring, and the short included wire plugs directly to your existing H4 connector.

 
Has anyone tried to get at the lights from front going under the nose and above the wheel...

I was just feeling around in there and it seemed to be a pretty easy way to get at the bulbs to me...

You can remove that black plastic deflector by the brake lines pretty easy to give you more room as well.

 
Has anyone tried to get at the lights from front going under the nose and above the wheel...
I was just feeling around in there and it seemed to be a pretty easy way to get at the bulbs to me...

You can remove that black plastic deflector by the brake lines pretty easy to give you more room as well.
I usually go in from the handlebars side. Turn the handlebars either way for more room. I think it is just me, but I have to see where my hands are going, or bad things happen..
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So far my LED tests have been by not looking at them (lit) but rather the (in the) road test as far as projection goes.

Outfit one, leave in the halogen. Take the bike out to a non busy street and bring an opaque towel. Cover one at a time and compare. This is the "real" test.

 
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That will not reveal holes that are in the beam cast, or where there is too much leakage above the vertical cut-off in low beam.

If you project the headlights (either together or one at a time) against a plain wall (ideally painted white) or garage door from about 25 feet in low beam and at about 50 feet in high beam, that will show where there is beam being cast and where there isn't.

 
You can see the differences on this video:

They show the halogen pattern, then the HID pattern. My LED pattern is a lot like the HID pattern shown in the video (at least the low beam is - the high is pretty much the same as the low but brighter).
 
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The video shows three configurations. First is the stock halogen, He shows low beam, high beam, and then mixed where both the lows and highs (or maybe one of each) is on.

Second is a retrofit of the HIDs in the stock reflector. He makes a point of showing how non-uniform the beam intensity is, and also the irregular and incomplete cutoff of the low beam. Lots of light above the cutoff. I wish that he showed what type of HIDs these were, because the units that I have experience with on my FJR was a whole lot better than those.

The third set of lights are HID projector beams, and the pattern of those is very, very good. Pretty much what you are shooting for. The projected beam uniformity and precise beam cutoff in low beam is outstanding.

I'd guess that putting an LED emitter into the stock Yamaha reflector is going to give you a similar pattern as the HID in the reflector. If so, I'd just stick with the halogens and wait for something better. Taking apart the headlight bucket to install the projectors looks like a serious PITA.

 
That will not reveal holes that are in the beam cast, or where there is too much leakage above the vertical cut-off in low beam.If you project the headlights (either together or one at a time) against a plain wall (ideally painted white) or garage door from about 25 feet in low beam and at about 50 feet in high beam, that will show where there is beam being cast and where there isn't.
Well, your show on the wall deal sucks (with LED), sorry to say. With LED, it will look so intense on a wall you will get all giddy with excitement and then bamm!... Outside on absorbing elements, keyword is absorbed (or whatever word you wish to insert). So the best way to actually see how this 6K light color emitting from diodes is really "lighting" is how I mentioned above^

On a white wall, you can see the variance of brighter to dimmer (patches) or areas as you mention as "holes". Agree w this totally, but, this test fails with the above paragraph. It's weird and baffling, but I now have come to know all this through (probably way too much) T&E.

Here's the skinny folks, and this coming from a guy who is now on his 8th pair of LED's (retrofitting wise). The luminance is different from how we know it (with LED's), and yes, they're some very bright one's now out there, BUT, the dual brightness ones done with a shield (to shift the HB to the lower part of the reflector) SUCKS!! All of them. Period, at least to date. I've tried 4 different one's (H4 in my snowmobiles this winter)...sucks!! They look intense (looking at them), but no projection luminance.

The #1 problem (and this is now the sole problem) is that this immense light source is not coming from the same height/distance away from the reflector as what the reflector was built for.

Here is one of my accepted LED retrofits (on my K16), but it is a Hi-Beam only retrofit, so this is much easier than H/L as I have only 1 beam to adjust the reflector for.

40watt 3600lm (ea) on the right, halogen on left. Picture doesn't really do it justice on the difference FYI. I'm waiting for better weather for my road tests to begin, but in the garage and against the wall, they are simply awesome.

LED_H7_comparison_zpsfwv1ldok.jpg


Now look at the LED fitted, you will see where the diodes are, quite far away from the reflector...

LED_H7_comparison2_zpslcs1vbnu.jpg


The result from the diodes being father out/away from the reflector?... wider pattern. The halogen is (was) very close in, which projects an almost "follow-spot" beam outward,but not much in the means of spreading the light sideways (you know, the deer running at you out of a culvert). So easy fix? No. You can adjust the reflector quite easily in my case b/c it won't effect my HID low beam. However, I can not adjust the beam. What "could" offset this is the added lumen's with this 40w LED capsule. I surely like the disbursed beam as long as I can still get the length compensated. TWT, road test is required but so far these are "Real Master Blasters". My tests will always continue in one of my powertoyz, so TBC......

 
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Every brand varies, so I will still get the pictures of the beam patterns from Justin's lights.

I fitted an HID projector to my Venture Royale. Fred is correct, the cut-off was outstanding. This was because it was accomplished by a metal shield that was activated by a solenoid switch controlled by the high beam switch. The plate remained "up" and the cut-out pattern was cut into it. When you hit the high beam, the plate dropped flat allowing the whole light to be projected.

Good system, worked well.

 
One thing I learned, everyone "thinks" they have the answer when it comes to LED retrofitting. Put this in stone on what I said^

And when I said peeps get "giddy" with excitement^ (when they see them projected on a wall as Fred said above^^^) it's all ********! Yes, weird ********, but it is what it is and what I said is the real deal.

Here's an FJR LED retrofit below, check out his excitement when he see's it lit-up in his garage, actually you need to checkout the whole video. You will see my words backed-up 100% (again!, I wish the motor experts would stay in that field!
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Enjoy

 
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Here's a couple beam patter shots, 1st one low beam, 2nd one high. Have a 3000k in the left and 6500k in right. Shutter was open way too long, and I was too lazy to redo it.

Edit - overexposed crappy pictures removed, see below :)

 
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