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Not as clean a cut-off as halogen (probably a focal-point thing), and nowhere near what a projector can manage.

That said, the dip of the beam on the left, the bit we are interested in, is obvious, and probably good enough to not be a pain to on-coming traffic.

Well they haven't "flashed" me, so that's a data-point

 
Not as clean a cut-off as halogen (probably a focal-point thing), and nowhere near what a projector can manage.
Well, part of the problem is that I screwed up the camera settings. I suspect a halogen might not looks as clean that over exposed as well. Going to go out and make another attempt now :lol:

 
Let's try this again without the shutter open for an hour :lol:

Again, 1st shot low, 2nd shot high. Left light is 3000k, right is 6500k. Pictures taken from left side of bike.

11083708_10205133986206964_1020581155882049886_o.jpg


1483998_10205133986606974_7556931901711139739_o.jpg


 
WOW - Just finished installing these bulbs.... what a train wreck of a job !! at least on the 15.

This is not for the people lacking the constitution and patience to mess around with frustrating stuff...

Basically it was a **** show - with lots of curse words and blue smoke...

I decided to tackle this job from the front of the bike....I couldn't even see the bulbs from the top by the handlebars.... removing the two bolts that hold the black plastic splash guard from the bottom behind the lights mounted to the forks... That gave me much more room - if you can call it that to get your wrists in there... Also - you can see what is going on through the headlight,

Remove power connector from old bulb, pull out rubber ring, remove old bulb - easiest part of the job, though still a pain in the *** with the tight quarters... right side (throttle side) of the bike was a bit tougher then the left

Using the right adapter of the 3 that come in the box, just compare to old bulb - insert that in the headlight fixture and lock it down with the wire locking arm.... MAKE SURE that you have it going in - in the right direction. Test on the LED bulb for orientation. Now here is where everything goes down hill and why you might want to work from the front...

As soon as you get the bulb lined up - Black bars on the LED portion at the 3 & 9 oclock direction (power wire up), you'll turn it a bit more to the 4 & 10 oclock spot - push bulb into adapter and then twist bulb to lock it back into the 9 & 3 oclock spot... Every Time I did that the fan portion of the body would connect with the wire locking arm and unlock it and you would have to start over... When you start - you can watch this happening as you are struggling to get it in and then watch as the wire arm slips out of the slot... F#%@...

I ended up jamming / screwing a short semi sharpened pencil into that spot so the wire arm couldn't come out. Still was a struggle.... I cut the rubber boot so it would fit snuggly around the fan body, you should do this ahead of install - once it was mostly on you need to push the rubber boot down along the fan body to open up the air ways... careful, this can also unlock the wire arm.... take your time - it took me 1.5 hours or so farting around with some flames coming out the top of my head.... LOL

Tested and look good - will have to see how they are at night....

It might be nice for future design of these bulb adapters that they twist and lock in place the opposite direction to avoid the problem with the locking wire arm IMO.

 
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I guess the Gen3 is harder than the Gen1 :) . P.S. Note the beam pattern difference may require adjusting the headlight height for best performance.

 
Yeah I'm very sure they are much easier - very tight quarters in there....

I've adjusted them down a bit - can't do anything more until its dark out fwiw....

 
WOW - Just finished installing these bulbs.... what a train wreck of a job !! at least on the 15.
This is not for the people lacking the constitution and patience to mess around with frustrating stuff...

Basically it was a **** show - with lots of curse words and blue smoke...

I decided to tackle this job from the front of the bike....I couldn't even see the bulbs from the top by the handlebars.... removing the two bolts that hold the black plastic splash guard from the bottom behind the lights mounted to the forks... That gave me much more room - if you can call it that to get your wrists in there... Also - you can see what is going on through the headlight,

Remove power connector from old bulb, pull out rubber ring, remove old bulb - easiest part of the job, though still a pain in the *** with the tight quarters... right side (throttle side) of the bike was a bit tougher then the left

Using the right adapter of the 3 that come in the box, just compare to old bulb - insert that in the headlight fixture and lock it down with the wire locking arm.... MAKE SURE that you have it going in - in the right direction. Test on the LED bulb for orientation. Now here is where everything goes down hill and why you might want to work from the front...

As soon as you get the bulb lined up - Black bars on the LED portion at the 3 & 9 oclock direction (power wire up), you'll turn it a bit more to the 4 & 10 oclock spot - push bulb into adapter and then twist bulb to lock it back into the 9 & 3 oclock spot... Every Time I did that the fan portion of the body would connect with the wire locking arm and unlock it and you would have to start over... When you start - you can watch this happening as you are struggling to get it in and then watch as the wire arm slips out of the slot... F#%@...

I ended up jamming / screwing a short semi sharpened pencil into that spot so the wire arm couldn't come out. Still was a struggle.... I cut the rubber boot so it would fit snuggly around the fan body, you should do this ahead of install - once it was mostly on you need to push the rubber boot down along the fan body to open up the air ways... careful, this can also unlock the wire arm.... take your time - it took me 1.5 hours or so farting around with some flames coming out the top of my head.... LOL

Tested and look good - will have to see how they are at night....

It might be nice for future design of these bulb adapters that they twist and lock in place the opposite direction to avoid the problem with the locking wire arm IMO.
That is why, as much as I would like them on now I am waiting til I do a front fork service. I am thinking it will be MUCH easier with them out of the way!

Thanks for convincing me on this Warpdrv!!

 
WOW - Just finished installing these bulbs.... what a train wreck of a job !! at least on the 15.
This is not for the people lacking the constitution and patience to mess around with frustrating stuff...

Basically it was a **** show - with lots of curse words and blue smoke...

I decided to tackle this job from the front of the bike....I couldn't even see the bulbs from the top by the handlebars.... removing the two bolts that hold the black plastic splash guard from the bottom behind the lights mounted to the forks... That gave me much more room - if you can call it that to get your wrists in there... Also - you can see what is going on through the headlight,

Remove power connector from old bulb, pull out rubber ring, remove old bulb - easiest part of the job, though still a pain in the *** with the tight quarters... right side (throttle side) of the bike was a bit tougher then the left

Using the right adapter of the 3 that come in the box, just compare to old bulb - insert that in the headlight fixture and lock it down with the wire locking arm.... MAKE SURE that you have it going in - in the right direction. Test on the LED bulb for orientation. Now here is where everything goes down hill and why you might want to work from the front...

As soon as you get the bulb lined up - Black bars on the LED portion at the 3 & 9 oclock direction (power wire up), you'll turn it a bit more to the 4 & 10 oclock spot - push bulb into adapter and then twist bulb to lock it back into the 9 & 3 oclock spot... Every Time I did that the fan portion of the body would connect with the wire locking arm and unlock it and you would have to start over... When you start - you can watch this happening as you are struggling to get it in and then watch as the wire arm slips out of the slot... F#%@...

I ended up jamming / screwing a short semi sharpened pencil into that spot so the wire arm couldn't come out. Still was a struggle.... I cut the rubber boot so it would fit snuggly around the fan body, you should do this ahead of install - once it was mostly on you need to push the rubber boot down along the fan body to open up the air ways... careful, this can also unlock the wire arm.... take your time - it took me 1.5 hours or so farting around with some flames coming out the top of my head.... LOL

Tested and look good - will have to see how they are at night....

It might be nice for future design of these bulb adapters that they twist and lock in place the opposite direction to avoid the problem with the locking wire arm IMO.
That is why, as much as I would like them on now I am waiting til I do a front fork service. I am thinking it will be MUCH easier with them out of the way!

Thanks for convincing me on this Warpdrv!!
I hadn't thought of that. I will be servicing my forks too, so I will wait until then!

 
It might be nice for future design of these bulb adapters that they twist and lock in place the opposite direction to avoid the problem with the locking wire arm IMO.
That is why, as much as I would like them on now I am waiting til I do a front fork service. I am thinking it will be MUCH easier with them out of the way!

Thanks for convincing me on this Warpdrv!!
I hadn't thought of that. I will be servicing my forks too, so I will wait until then!

Good idea sir.... hands are in rough shape after that - nothing bleeding but sore after the wrestling around back there, I highly suggest if your planning the fork work it'll be much easier then...

 
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Hey Tanker - I'm happy enough with them that they are not going anywhere.....

Do they shoot a better beam then the stock bulbs - I don't think so, and many here would confirm the same, LED's installed in a lens designed for incandescent will never be perfectly right or proper - BUT

I run extra lighting on my bike -

LEDRider Mini's low on the forks in Amber, and then I have the LEDRider LR4's on a dimmer up top, which also add to anything lacking in pattern. So all in all, if they don't provide the perfect beam casting, they do save me power on the entire circuit draw, and I got more then enough coverage then most. Plus they don't look so goofy with the different colors on the Gen 3 front end.

PJF_6834_zpsepz4jpgf.jpg


 
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