LED Replacement Lamps for Tail, Brake and Turn Signals

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wow guys .... have to say I'm disappointed in the response. Did any of you bother to look at the blog I referenced in my original post ?
Nope...didn't bother.

I repeat it here ...
https://jhlui1.wordpress.com/2012/01/17/yamaha-fjr-1300a-2007-conversion-to-leds/#jp-carousel-363

Has very clear photos showing

a - that the bulbs do just drop in, they are not too fat if you pick the towers

b - a view of a lit, naked bulb that shows the 360 illumination of the tower

c - before and after photos which show (at least to me) a worthwhile increase in brightness using the 60 LED towers

d - the text directly addresses the issues of load resistance "And maybe because of having even more LEDs, the load resistance is close enough to a bulb to not have to purchase another $20 set of electronic flasher relay replacements."

Don't tell me it can't be done when I've already given you research that says it can and has been done ..
Now, try not to take offense, but it seems you're already sold on the idea, so why ask for opinions when you're already convinced???

LED's for your usage are "getting there"... In another couple of years these known problems will be non-existent.
.... maybe those "couple of years" happened 6 months ago ?

Well, I'm choosing to pout my lip, order the parts and try it for myself ... I'll let you know how it goes
Be sure to provide plenty of pictures...and the COMPLETE parts & price list!
smile.png


 
wow guys .... have to say I'm disappointed in the response. Did any of you bother to look at the blog I referenced in my original post ?
I repeat it here ...

https://jhlui1.wordpress.com/2012/01/17/yamaha-fjr-1300a-2007-conversion-to-leds/#jp-carousel-363]https://jhlui1.wordpress.com/2012/01/17/yamaha-fjr-1300a-2007-conversion-to-leds/#jp-carousel-363[/url]

Has very clear photos showing

a - that the bulbs do just drop in, they are not too fat if you pick the towers

b - a view of a lit, naked bulb that shows the 360 illumination of the tower

c - before and after photos which show (at least to me) a worthwhile increase in brightness using the 60 LED towers

d - the text directly addresses the issues of load resistance "And maybe because of having even more LEDs, the https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Input_impedance]load resistance[/url] is close enough to a bulb to not have to purchase another $20 set of https://www.customled.com/products/flasher_relay/flasher_relay.htm]electronic flasher relay replacements[/url]."

Don't tell me it can't be done when I've already given you research that says it can and has been done ..

LED's for your usage are "getting there"... In another couple of years these known problems will be non-existent.
.... maybe those "couple of years" happened 6 months ago ?
Well, I'm choosing to pout my lip, order the parts and try it for myself ... I'll let you know how it goes
Well then, why did you ask? Obviously that blog told you everything you wanted to know. BUT you then decide to come here to seek opinions and then tell us how wrong we are for not validating what you want to hear.
Regardless of what some blog says, numerous people on this forum have already tried what you are asking and none that I know of have gotten decent results. If people did, don't you think all the LD guys that use lots of power and ride a lot in the dark would have done the conversion already? Bunches of guys here have easily $500 or more in lights designed to make themselves more visible. If your blog held water don't you think tons of us would have spent the money to upgrade?

The fact that we haven't done it should tell you something. Do what you want. Its your bike, your money and your time, but please don't think we're gonna agree with you just to make you feel better.

At least now I know what to expect.

 
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Haha...Looks like Howie and I had the same train of thought. I was just typing way too slow on this dumb phone.

 
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I've ordered a Signal Dynamics AYN rear brake flasher/license frame and their headlight modulator. I was impressed with another biker's install, that I encountered on a trip... his AYN really caught my eye, and I hope it will reduce the odds of being struck from the rear at a stop. Similarly, I hope the modulator will reduce the odds of a SMIDSY.

More expensive than LED replacement bulbs, but IMO more targeted at the actual problem... not being seen in time by cagers.

 
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Longevity and durability of LEDS make them attractive. Pure brilliant 'K-Scale' color temps may be another.

But as far as replacement bulbs (ie 1157's etc) go... they just aren't there yet. I really wish they were and as said it will be hopefully sooner than later. Surely this has not been accomplished yet as OP has mentioned (I think her words were "achieved 6 mos ago"). Those tower bulbs from China just plain suck ass, but to be convinced here on this Forum?, one must try I guess ;)

Carry on!

 
Sounds like there's NO plus to changing out to LED tail lights...
If a person was planning to install Garauld's rear sub frame stiffener it may make sense to install long life LEDs to avoid the nuisance of changing bulbs later.
I just installed that kit and was thinkin while I was doing it "lord help me if I have to change these bulbs"
uhoh.gif


 
About those blog pics...... when you get your LEDs in, repeat that comparison of 1157 and LED, but do it from 60 or 100 feet, and maybe 20 or 30 degrees to the side. Putting the camera 8 inches from the light is beyond irrelevant.

As for the tower having 360-degree illumination? Nope. Each LED in a tower has a very narrow beam straight out from that LED. The reflector in the bike is designed to enhance the light coming from a filament which is in a known position. 1157s are all pretty much the same as far as where the light comes from and which way the filament is oriented. That's why they have a bayonet base instead of the screw base. Light from those LEDs coming from all up and down that tower does NOT meet the reflector as it's designed, and the light does NOT radiate into the real world as intended.

Nobody cares what the light looks like from 8 inches. What's important is how it looks from out there where those killers are driving.

What drives this "I gotta get me some o' those" is the fact that current LED lighting in cars is fantastic! We want that on the bikes! But it has to be designed in as a system. Next time you see a nice automotive LED tail-light/brake-light/turn-signal setup, count the actual LEDs in the assembly. There's be about 55 times as many as on those little light "towers" you've got for the 1157 socket. That's why they're so good: they are comprised of a HUGE matrix of LEDs.

 
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420 lumins doesn't get you much. I wanted to change out the halogen fog lights on our Explorer and tried a set of the "best" 420 lumin LED bulbs and I was not impressed. Looked okay, but they put out less light on the road than the stock halogens, to the point you can barely tell they're on, even with the headlights off, at night. Looking at HID units, now.

 
HID's rule (I run them in all my vehicles and powersport toyz) and will perfectly work in the driving/fog applications you are talking about... as long as the lens or housing unit is made for non-direct illumination. So this means, if you see the entire capsule when installed (standing in front of lens looking in) and it's "raw" to the eye it's a no-no. If it's reflected or capped by either the capsule or the housing then you will be fine (with appropriate aim/re-aiming). If you get flashed a few times, you know to go and re-aim lower.

Projectors are perfect as long as they have a cut-off shield. This shield will be on the lower part of the internal housing which cuts off the top side of the light (it's an inversion w the lens).

---

So back to LED's, I re-looked at a bunch of sites known for "hi-powered LED's" lol. I really don't see this progress as Riona stated. DDM certainly does not have the answer, they are simply a Chinese importer and not any type of innovator, they may be able to suggest to their Mfgr's of course!. Problem I see is cooling and/or fins etc to accomplish the higher output needed. LED's do not like any flex-rise in heat, they have a small window. I really think this is where the mudbone lies right now. For the newer cars, the LED's are spaced (to dissipate any heat) and can have more output b/c of this. A small area like an 1157 doesn't have this luxury with spacing or natural heat dissipation.

[Hi-Power LED example] ...cuz I am a lighting enthusiasts slash nutcase!

Now this is extreme as we are talking 24w LED (1800lm) but notice the cooling fan slash heat sinks. This image is an H7, perfect foglight solution for maybe a car --OR--- this is actually going to be fitted into my Beemer K1600 (Hi-Beams)

%24(KGrHqF,!n8F!IhHh9zuBQEFSgUOc!~~60_12.JPG


 
After reading all of the posts concerning LED conversion, I am convinced now is not the time to do it.

Seems like a lot of work and expense for no benefit.

When the technology is available for motorcycles I'll jump in.

This was a very enlightening thread, pun intended.

 
Seems like a lot of work and expense for no benefit.
Having considered LEDs before, this is the conclusion I came to as well.

I did , however, make a brake light from an emergency vehicle 3 LED module and added a flasher circuit and mounted it up high on my tail bag.

Now THAT worked!

You could see that bad boy from 10 cars back on the freeweay. Bit of a problem at night though...
uhoh.gif


 
About those blog pics...... when you get your LEDs in, repeat that comparison of 1157 and LED, but do it from 60 or 100 feet, and maybe 20 or 30 degrees to the side. Putting the camera 8 inches from the light is beyond irrelevant.
Big +1 - this has been my experience with LED bulbs. The reflectors are not designed for them. Now on my Busa, it has a LED tail/stop light from the factory and is very bright. But it was designed that way, to utilize the LEDs.

 
Might not be the help you're looking for but if you want to search the forum for three letter words (or anything for that matter) use google and just type "(search item) site:www.fjrforum.com". It takes a bit more typing but gives much better results.

 
A mate tried to fit stop / tail led globes.

Could,'t find a set that had descent demarcation / brightness levels between the tail led lumens and the stop led lumens.

Could hardly tell the difference in output when following him.

Web Bike World has a lot of info about it.

 
There are few LED bulb replacements that are as bright as the OEM regular filament bulbs, and likely others will echo that the LED's did not live up to expectations. Save your money, keep the stock bulbs. As for headlights, there are other experts on HID who will likely chime in, but it's not just a bulb swap. It requires ballasts you'll have to find a place for, wiring harnesses and such. Could take you several hours to put in a kit....

 
I can say the LED kit in my Givi is the bomb. One of the main reasons I went with a Givi.

I do not think brake and running light replacements are ready for prime time. I do hope by the time I need to replace any on the FJR that there are some that work but who knows?

In the mean time Hyper Lights are all that and a bunch more for attention getting. Would be my choice if not for the GIvi.

 
A mate tried to fit stop / tail led globes.Could,'t find a set that had descent demarcation / brightness levels between the tail led lumens and the stop led lumens.

Could hardly tell the difference in output when following him.
That has been my observation as well. More LEDs were illuminated with the brakes, but from 50 feet back there was little enough difference that without seeing the change, you didn't know which was brakes and which was not. Brake lights must be enough brioghter than tail lights to be obvious, and I've not seen a set of replacements that were.

 
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