Lessons Learned on changing the CCT

[RossKean]

... I had a set of these (SAE size) in my old tool box and found that a 5/18 fit nicely on the 8mm bolt.

Maybe 5/16"??

 

[rehabgen1]

Thanks for lowering the intimidation factor by 90% at least. Trying to get all the details right before the the start up!

 

[DezzertRider]

... I had a set of these (SAE size) in my old tool box and found that a 5/18 fit nicely on the 8mm bolt.

Maybe 5/16"??

Thanks for the correction, yes it was 5/16"

 

[donaldb]

Thanks again FJRForum. I know I don't visit often like I used to. Yes, I still have my 04 FJR, pulling a trailer with it now and picking up stickers along the way of my travel conquests. Have seen most of USA from that stock saddle. Hope to continue seeing more in the years to come. My cam chain started rattling and clattering a few weeks ago, so I came back here for research on the subject. I knew if it was anywhere to be found this would be the place. Followed the directions and replaced the CCT last Friday and things could not have gone smoother. The old FJR is humming like a sewing machine again. Can't believe the difference the new CCT made. Anyway, hope to see you guys on the road sometime.

Working on a trip up the Blue Ridge Pkwy, and parallel the Appalachian along back roads to the end marker in northern Maine. Trip tentatively set for October. Hope to ride a little in Vermont and New Hampshire along the way. With the new CCT I think the trip is possible now. Not sure what I would have done without my trusted 04. Best Regards, Bruce

 

[gdt3]

I just bought my 2005 FJR and took it apart enough to see the CCT. I looked for a blue dot but couldn't see one. I can't see one in the pictures posted here either. My bike has 65,000 km (40,000 mi) on it. What is the opinion of whether this needs changing or not? Please.

Thanks,

Don

 

[RossKean]

Change it!

No questions, debate or anything else. Simply not worth the risk.

Chances are, you will have some warning before it fails (maybe). Listen for rattling (can of marbles) on the right side; especially when engine is cold.

 

[Fred W]

Yeah, plan on replacing it. If it isn't making the noises described yet then there is no rush, and it's a job you want to do correctly since you can do harm if not done right. But the 1st gen CCTs all could use an upgrade.

 

[wetwolf]

Did the 1st valve check since I have owned the bike. (50K, bought it at 48K) GEN1 always been rattlin a little on the right side. Once you get far enough into the bike, the CCT is a cakewalk.

Mind you, I haven't actualy had the CCT out of the engine yet, but i managed to change 4 shims on the intake side without fukin up the timing. Once the CCT gets here, it will be a tite squeeze to put it in, but this friggin bike is about as tightly packed as a honda jetski. Learn what you need to take off to get the job done. The 1st time you will always take off more stuff than you need to.

 

[Fred W]

Yeah, the main interference for CCT removal and replacement is the darned frame itself. But you definitely also want to take the timing cover off to secure the chain, which means removal of the right lower faring panel. Otherwise it's just an exercise in testing your manual dexterity.

 

[marktitley]

So, I am intalling my new tensioner this evening, took me 2 days to get the lower bolt loose, Ugh. My question is, after I install and tighten it up i know to release the pin. You mentioned manually turning the engine.... How do I do this without starting the bike? Please be detailed since this is my first time

So, I am intalling my new tensioner this evening, took me 2 days to get the lower bolt loose, Ugh. My question is, after I install and tighten it up i know to release the pin. You mentioned manually turning the engine.... How do I do this without starting the bike? Please be detailed since this is my first time

 

[RossKean]

You can turn the engine with a socket wrench (under the timing cover) I assume you are doing this with the timing cover removed anyway to ensure you don't skip a tooth? Easier if the spark plugs are out so you aren't fighting compression. Alternatively, with the bike on the centerstand and the transmission in fifth gear, the engine can be turned over by rotating the rear wheel. Takes a bit of effort.

 

[08FJR4ME]

If on the center stand in gear wouldn't the engine spin? I believe so and that may be the easiest. Then again I haven't done the job yet. Been rattling for over a year now. I try not to rev the engine since that's when I hear it most.

Dave

 

[RossKean]

If on the center stand in gear wouldn't the engine spin? I believe so and that may be the easiest. Then again I haven't done the job yet. Been rattling for over a year now. I try not to rev the engine since that's when I hear it most.
Dave

Ask ionbeam or Radio Howie if they think you should wait until you can "find the time".
Although you can turn the engine over in a controlled non-powered fashion using the rear wheel in 5th gear, its pretty easy to do it with a socket wrench on the crank. You should have the timing cover off to secure the chain anyway.

 

[PhilJet09]

If on the center stand in gear wouldn't the engine spin? I believe so and that may be the easiest. Then again I haven't done the job yet. Been rattling for over a year now. I try not to rev the engine since that's when I hear it most.
Dave

Dave, just do it, it isn't bad at all. I combined it with this year's "winter service", which means all my fairings, radiator, exhaust and the whole top of the motor was removed (including the throttle bodies). Piece of cake then. :lol:

 

[twistedcricket]

So I just completed this and I'm standing at the bike with it in 5th gear. Wheel spins, but I can't see the chain well. What am I looking for if I didn't have the ty-wrap tight enough? I really don't think it skipped during the change, but I'd like some guidance before I put everything back together.

Thanks a million for this write-up and the subsequent follow-ups. This is not a difficult task. Just be sure to read that you need a 1/4" flat screwdriver at least 6" long... a trip to the big box store and $4 got me what I needed for that bit.

 

[Fred W]

With the chain cover still off you can use a socket to turn the engine over a couple of times. If you have the spark plugs out it will turn over easier, but can be turned against the compression if needed. Turn it slowly and make sure you don't hit any mechanical resistance. This will ensure that you won't have a catastrophe when you thumb the starter button the first time.

If you took the proper precautions and never allowed the chain to slacken during the CCT replacement, then there is very little chance it jumped a tooth on any of the sprockets.

 

[rbentnail]

IMHO if you have any doubt whatsoever, ANY DOUBT, then consider doing it the only reliable, 100% fool-proof way instead of half-assing it and even remotely risking damaging anything. Remove the side cover, remove the valve cover, check the 3 timing marks. It's the only way to be absolutely sure you haven't screwed it up. Man, if I had a 5-spot for every person that said something like, "I really don't think it skipped [a tooth] during the change" or during a valve shim replacement only to find out that it had I think I'd be a gaziilionaire!

 

[twistedcricket]

With the chain cover still off you can use a socket to turn the engine over a couple of times. If you have the spark plugs out it will turn over easier, but can be turned against the compression if needed. Turn it slowly and make sure you don't hit any mechanical resistance. This will ensure that you won't have a catastrophe when you thumb the starter button the first time.
If you took the proper precautions and never allowed the chain to slacken during the CCT replacement, then there is very little chance it jumped a tooth on any of the sprockets.

I had the ty-wrap/ziptie as tight as I could get it by hand. I did not remove it until I had all three bolts tight on the tensioner. I was turning the wheel, against the compression, but I did not hear any metal clanking. I may remove spark plugs, because I should inspect them anyway, and make it easier to turn and detect resistance.

IMHO if you have any doubt whatsoever, ANY DOUBT, then consider doing it the only reliable, 100% fool-proof way instead of half-assing it and even remotely risking damaging anything. Remove the side cover, remove the valve cover, check the 3 timing marks. It's the only way to be absolutely sure you haven't screwed it up.

I will look in my service manual for details. Thanks!

 

[user 90612]

Changed mine today. Thanks so much for this write up.

My 2 cents -

• Cover the hole in the frame with tape. I dropped the original bolt for the adjuster hole in there lickity split. I should have heeded the warning from others.
  
• Get an ignition wrench or a half moon wrench for that pesky lower bolt. I cut an 8mm wrench down with a hacksaw and used that to break the bolt. For tightening, I alternated between an 8mm box end and a 5/16" box end. The teeth in the box end were offset just enough between the two wrenches.
  
• Go ahead and get a replacement gasket for the chain cover.

Mine is an '08 and the spring tension in the old tensioner was weaker than the new green dot one. I haven't started it up yet because I'm changing the plugs tomorrow.

 

[Bustanut joker]

• Get an ignition wrench or a half moon wrench for that pesky lower bolt. I cut an 8mm wrench down with a hacksaw and used that to break the bolt. For tightening, I alternated between an 8mm box end and a 5/16" box end. The teeth in the box end were offset just enough between the two wrenches.
  
  I see you missed the part where it was suggested you use that same hacksaw to slot the tensioner bolt/ screw head. It's no fun tightening it your way