RichardS
Well-known member
After reading several posts on this subject that were not very clear, I started to look for these screws. All I could find on my '08 were rivets. Then low & behold, there they were. Since I am an ex-engineer cursed with having obsessive complusive disorder (perfectionist), I will make a short story VERY long since I do not believe in TMI (too much info). Newbies & oldbies heed please, all the windshield advise/posts needs your height & inseam size included so others can make a intelligent decison on your choice !
There are 2 little screws under the plastic latch that holds the case key cylinder lock. Forget about using the proper size torx head driver to remove these, the screws have an anti-theft pin in the center. Don't go & buy the special torx head screw driver, they are costly & not needed. One postee used channel locks. I used a new (read sharp cornered) pair of pliers. The area is very small, I have big arthritic hands. I removed the bags for ease of work, leaving the 'removal' case handle UP for more working space. I was amazed how easy the screws came out dispite their location and size (and no Loctite on them). If you can't see them unscrewing, use a black marker to stripe one edge or face ( the 4th screw did never turn, so I left it in). After unscrewing with the pliers for several turns, I could get my big fingers in and finish removing them a lot easier.
If you mechanically challenged &/or have big hands/fingers, I suggest removing only 1 screw at a time. Removing both will cause the lock cylinder to fall out of it's plastic bushing while both fall out of the case latch. The bushing has 2 alignment pins for proper install, the lock cylinder has 1 pin and 2 possible locations, but both seem to work properly. But keeping 1 screw in also retains the metal latch that is 1 less part to align AND hold during reassembly.
I used common household tweezers to hold the new screw head while applying the Locktite, and while initially tighening the screw. Keep/wipe Locktite off of any plastic as it may attack it.
I went to the local Ace hardware store to buy replacements screws. They carried 4 dif kinds of M3 x.5 x 6mm long screws: 1. 'shiny' phillips head pan head @ $.13 each, 2. stainless steel phillips head pan head @ .23 each, 3. blackened button head @ .25 each & 4. stainless steel button head @.29 each. Both button heads use a 2mm hex key. I bought #1's, and used a new(er) sharp bladed phillips head screw driver. No need to screw these down hard, let the Locktite do it's job.
Ace also had M3 x .5 x 5mm (too short!) and M3 x .5 x 8mm (too long!). Have a good day.
There are 2 little screws under the plastic latch that holds the case key cylinder lock. Forget about using the proper size torx head driver to remove these, the screws have an anti-theft pin in the center. Don't go & buy the special torx head screw driver, they are costly & not needed. One postee used channel locks. I used a new (read sharp cornered) pair of pliers. The area is very small, I have big arthritic hands. I removed the bags for ease of work, leaving the 'removal' case handle UP for more working space. I was amazed how easy the screws came out dispite their location and size (and no Loctite on them). If you can't see them unscrewing, use a black marker to stripe one edge or face ( the 4th screw did never turn, so I left it in). After unscrewing with the pliers for several turns, I could get my big fingers in and finish removing them a lot easier.
If you mechanically challenged &/or have big hands/fingers, I suggest removing only 1 screw at a time. Removing both will cause the lock cylinder to fall out of it's plastic bushing while both fall out of the case latch. The bushing has 2 alignment pins for proper install, the lock cylinder has 1 pin and 2 possible locations, but both seem to work properly. But keeping 1 screw in also retains the metal latch that is 1 less part to align AND hold during reassembly.
I used common household tweezers to hold the new screw head while applying the Locktite, and while initially tighening the screw. Keep/wipe Locktite off of any plastic as it may attack it.
I went to the local Ace hardware store to buy replacements screws. They carried 4 dif kinds of M3 x.5 x 6mm long screws: 1. 'shiny' phillips head pan head @ $.13 each, 2. stainless steel phillips head pan head @ .23 each, 3. blackened button head @ .25 each & 4. stainless steel button head @.29 each. Both button heads use a 2mm hex key. I bought #1's, and used a new(er) sharp bladed phillips head screw driver. No need to screw these down hard, let the Locktite do it's job.
Ace also had M3 x .5 x 5mm (too short!) and M3 x .5 x 8mm (too long!). Have a good day.
Hee Hee
