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I posted Db readings from a meter, along with distances, angles, and comparisons from both the OEM horn and the MB horns (installed using a relay and 12ga wire for the harness). Unfortunately, I posted it to the "other" board and, after it crashed for the 2nd or 3rd time, the data was never restored. I just did a search and couldn't find it there. Gone forever.

Perhaps it's in one of the archived FJROwners areas if someone knows the link to the older versions.

 
This debate reminds me of when I was looking for a new Camry for the wife and wanted one with ABS. I was told by the dealer there were none available because "No one wants ABS anymore, they want airbags". Call me crazy, but I'd much rather avoid a crash altogether than merely survive one. I don't know how much time you guys spend laying on your horns, but in an emergency situation my focus is on evasive action, not honking my horn. [run-on sentence] I don't care how loud your horns are, if the person who's about to run you into a guardrail is a 17 year old kid who spent his first month's paychecks from his first real job on a $1000 sound system for his '89 Cavalier (4-door of course), and he's trying to impress the 19 year old in the (2-door!) Accord next to him, he's NOT going to hear your Mega-Master-Mondo-Blaster air/oil-cooled, relayed or not, horns! [/run-on sentence]

With that said, I'm running a pair of the (I think Aerostitch calls them) Mega Blasters, sans relay. Been doing so almost two years now with no ill effects and don't exect to ever have any under my type of useage. The stock horns are pathetic and embarassing. The new horns even with stock wiring are a significant improvement. I use my horns in short momentary blasts, mainly for the idiot in front of me who's failed to notice that the light turned green. If you're using your horns to try to save your life, may I recommend you take a refresher MSF course.

As a 24 year mechanic, I never cease to be amazed by MOST (not all) engineers viewpoint that everything electro-mechanical can be calculated with total accuracy. If that were the case, there would never be a product recall. Regardless of all the scientific testing given in the other horn thread referenced here, I'm going to go on blind faith that my horn switch and wiring will survive until the bike is used up. If I'm wrong, I'm more than man enough to admit it publicly here. Keep your eyes open for a future thread with a subject line of "L I B, M horns is drawin' 2 much par". ;) ;)

 
As a 24 year mechanic, I never cease to be amazed by MOST (not all) engineers viewpoint that everything electro-mechanical can be calculated with total accuracy. If that were the case, there would never be a product recall.
[GEEK_MODE]

I guess I'll be in the majority, and go on record to say that everything electro-mechanical CAN be calculated with total accuracy, as long as it can be modeled. Some systems are too complex to model and either: 1) Don't warrant the effort to model them because simplifications get close enough, 2) The computing power required is beyond the current, fiscally feasible state, 3) the algorithms simply haven't been resolved yet.

This physical world we live in functions on logical, repeatable principals, and those can be described in mathematical form and manipulated as needed - there is no variance or unexplained phenomenon occuring.

As far as recalls go - they are not the result of an abject failure in mathematics, simpy the result of an error in, or failing to, model a system. Basically, the human error of assuming, or completely forgetting, to look at a key component leads to these failures.

I would also be remiss if I didn't comment on failures in manufacturing, or an inability to manufacture. In our competitive environment of heavy cost reduction, often the specifications for manufacturing are either not described, or not met, and even the most complete design will fail as a result. That is why the best designs are always tested, and re-evaluated for suitability to task, but again, financial constraints (time included) often preclude this from being performed.

[/GEEK_MODE]

Wow, am I going to get flamed for that, or what!?!?! That was embarrassing. True, but embarrassing! ;) ;) ;)

-BD

 
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I've had my dual tone horns on my bike for a year sans relay with no problems. I didn't see that significant of a draw difference to warrant the relay.

Now, if I was going to add a horn or add a significant difference in power draw, I'd definitely add one.

But, that's just me, YMMV.

 
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[GEEK_MODE]I guess I'll be in the majority, and go on record to say that everything electro-mechanical CAN be calculated with total accuracy, as long as it can be modeled.

<snip>

This physical world we live in functions on logical, repeatable principals, and those can be described in mathematical form and manipulated as needed - there is no variance or unexplained phenomenon occuring.

<snip>

As far as recalls go - they are not the result of an abject failure in mathematics, simpy the result of an error in, or failing to, model a system. Basically, the human error of assuming, or completely forgetting, to look at a key component leads to these failures.

<snip>

[/GEEK_MODE]

Wow, am I going to get flamed for that, or what!?!?! That was embarrassing. True, but embarrassing! ;) ;) ;)

-BD
No flaming from me Bro. I would ask that you elaborate a little on the "modeling" thing though. I find alot of failures (electrical or mechanical) due to environmental issues. Like water intrusion from the snow that people track into the car on their shoes, or the yay-hoo that goes "Yeeee-haaaawwww...I bet I kin git 'cross that crick faster than all y'all in mah 4wd truck". I have the utmost respect for engineers and what they do (my daughter is majoring in Chem E as we speak). It's not necesarily a failure of the engineering so much as the absolute impossibility to foresee every extreme that a component will be subjected to. THAT is why I believe even the greatest engineering minds simply can't account for all possible eventualities. No matter how hard you try to idiot-proof something, they just keep building better idiots. That's why I believe you just can't engineer anything to withstand everything that Billy-Bob Customer can dish out, but you do the best you can. If you're lucky, the product you buy is slightly over-engineered rather than under-engineered and will likely stand up to most of what you can dish out. I've upgraded horns on my FJR, my Tacoma, and my Derbi without the addition of any supplemental relays or wiring and with no ill effects. But again, I try not to count on my horns for survival (I think to do so could easily prove disastrous), so I'm just an occasional honker. For me that's been working out fine for years. YMMV.

So I really have nothing against engineers, but just once, I'd like to hear one say that it's IMPOSSIBLE to foresee everything a component will be subjected to in its' life and design accordingly. That's what makes TOTAL accuracy impossible.

MHO,

 
I've had my dual tone horns on my bike for a year sans relay with no problems. I didn't see that significant of a draw difference to warrant the relay.
Now, if I was going to add a horn or add a significant difference in power draw, I'd definitely add one.

Interesting tidbit here (FWIW). I'd like to believe we could all agree that Toyota engineers are no idiots and probably as good as any in the auto industry. If you disagree, I don't care and don't wish to debate the issue. :rolleyes: Anyway, as I stated in my last post, I upgraded the horns on my Tacoma. The 2000 model came with ONE horn only of the puny variety that comes standard on the FJR (which gets two!), and runs off the 15A "horn" fuse. The 2001 model got upgraded to TWO horns of the variety that most of us here are upgrading our FJRs to. Those are run off the 15A "horn/hazard" fuse. So they added a horn and hazard lights to the circuit, as well as upgrading the style of horn, all without upping the fuse rating or wire gauge, and we never see any failures of the horn circuit. And Tacoma trucks last a looooong time. I think some of these guys just need to get their finger off the horn button.

 
So I really have nothing against engineers, but just once, I'd like to hear one say that it's IMPOSSIBLE to foresee everything a component will be subjected to in its' life and design accordingly. That's what makes TOTAL accuracy impossible.MHO,


?It's impossible to foresee everything a component will be subjected to.....lalalalalala....."

OK, now are you happy? :lol:

I think you are just looking at it from a different viewpoint. For example: The aerospace guys do a pretty thorough job of predicting ALL the forces and events a new airplane will be subjected to....which is why the first 787 will take off and land uneventfully on it's first flight. It just depends on how much time and money is spent on the analysis of the subject device, how much safety factor is built into the design, how much is really known about the device so as to make an accurate a model as possible (see first item) and, maybe most importantly, how well the "engineer" can control the customer usage of the product. Airplane operation is a relatively contolled environment with fixed rules for operation and trained operators with standardized operating procedures. Car and motorcycle operation is just the opposite. You never know what the operator is going to do when the "hold my beer and watch this" syndrome takes over. Which is why engineering cars and motorcycles is a bit tricky and leaves the end result open to discussions like this.

The horn circuit in question is probably designed with a significant safety factor (in terms of current capability) on the production motorcycle. Which is why many people will add horns with greater amperage draw "without a problem." But just because the circuit is operating at 9/10's of it's capability "successfully" for one person does not make it right nor mean that the engineer screwed up in the design. Durability and reliability start to come into play. Also that pesky operating schedule...... How long does the horn toot each event? Maybe you like to toot and others like to sit on the horn for longer periods of time? Maybe the wiring will withstand the current draw for 2 seconds but will overheat when subjected to a 5 second burn when that semi is slowly pinching you into the rail and the horn button and throttle are both pegged. Unless the mechanic that modifies the device tests it in the same vein it was designed in he/she has no idea how close the engineer was cutting it. That is the safety factor thing. In this simple case I would imagine that the horn might work fine with the OEM wiring and contacts for many people who seldom use it for most of the time for low mileage riders. Throw in a long toot, some dirt on the contacts, a frayed strand or two of wire at the terminal and all bets are off. That is what the safety factor was thrown in for and if you use it up with your mods (without a relay) then you (or your horn circuit) are on borrowed time.

I always love the arguements and viewpoints between engineers and mechanics...... Living on both sides of the matter at times really makes it interesting.

We always have similar discussions with the techs/mechanics in our test garages and dyno labs. They obviously see a lot of failed and used up parts since we are testing things to their absolute limits (and beyond) in some cases so they tend to develop an attitude that the engineers must really not know what they are doing where the engineer looks at the failed part and is happy that it failed how and where and when the model predicted so as to validate the model and the design that was done using the model.

Sprint. Aside from this hyjack.... I am more concerned in these horn replacements with the forks hitting the horns than with the electrical issues. Blown fuses and melted wires can be replaced. Tag the horn with the fork in the wrong way and your day might turn to ****. My experience is that it is pretty difficult to get adequate fork clearance to the larger horns if they are simply tucked into the same spot. I know the Magnum Blasters I installed hit the forks at full turn and full compression without some serious trimming and relocating the mounts. I took the time to take the fork springs out so I could collapse the forks and turn them right and left and they were hard into the MagnumBlasters. So.....check your clearances carefully when you are done. I realize it is unlikely to get full compression and full turn angle at the same time but at least check the full compression because mine hit originally in that mode without even turning the forks at all before I started some serious relocating. Just because one person rides around without hitting doesn't mean that there is adequate clearance for that 99th percentile bump and turn you have yet to hit....... But that is just the engineer in me.... :) :)

 
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I've had my dual tone horns on my bike for a year sans relay with no problems. I didn't see that significant of a draw difference to warrant the relay.
Now, if I was going to add a horn or add a significant difference in power draw, I'd definitely add one.

Interesting tidbit here (FWIW). I'd like to believe we could all agree that Toyota engineers are no idiots and probably as good as any in the auto industry. If you disagree, I don't care and don't wish to debate the issue. :rolleyes: Anyway, as I stated in my last post, I upgraded the horns on my Tacoma. The 2000 model came with ONE horn only of the puny variety that comes standard on the FJR (which gets two!), and runs off the 15A "horn" fuse. The 2001 model got upgraded to TWO horns of the variety that most of us here are upgrading our FJRs to. Those are run off the 15A "horn/hazard" fuse. So they added a horn and hazard lights to the circuit, as well as upgrading the style of horn, all without upping the fuse rating or wire gauge, and we never see any failures of the horn circuit. And Tacoma trucks last a looooong time. I think some of these guys just need to get their finger off the horn button.

If your logic is true then that means that the horn circuit on the 2000 model must have been grossly overdesigned/overcapacity if it has the capacity to add that much load with no changes. Which is the safe way out for an engineer and doesn't take nearly as much analysis. Do you know that this is the case on the FJR...??? If not, then your example means absolutely nothing. It is worse than useless to use this example, in fact, it is misleading without knowing what the capacity of the circuits were.

 
Interesting tidbit here (FWIW). I'd like to believe we could all agree that Toyota engineers are no idiots and probably as good as any in the auto industry. If you disagree, I don't care and don't wish to debate the issue. :rolleyes: Anyway, as I stated in my last post, I upgraded the horns on my Tacoma. The 2000 model came with ONE horn only of the puny variety that comes standard on the FJR (which gets two!), and runs off the 15A "horn" fuse. The 2001 model got upgraded to TWO horns of the variety that most of us here are upgrading our FJRs to. Those are run off the 15A "horn/hazard" fuse. So they added a horn and hazard lights to the circuit, as well as upgrading the style of horn, all without upping the fuse rating or wire gauge, and we never see any failures of the horn circuit. And Tacoma trucks last a looooong time. I think some of these guys just need to get their finger off the horn button.
Dave,

I will say though, that I had a 2002 Suzuki Bandit S that came with a single horn. The 2002 Suzuki Bandit naked came with dual horns. One could assume that there was no difference between the two electrically.

However, when I installed dual horns on my Bandit, within weeks of the install, my horn did not behave properly. I would get what I can only describe as a weakness where the horn sounded like a gasping duck rather than a full horn. After another week or two, my switch could not handle it and all I would get is a clicking noise.

I installed a relay and, thankfully, the switch still worked, and the horns returned to their "get out of the way" mode rather than the "um, excuse me, if you have a moment, would you mind moving please" mode.

This is why I said in my post that if I was going to add a horn, or ramp up the power draw significantly, I'd go with a relay. I just don't see how replacing two horns with two different, relatively comparable but slightly higher draw, horns would add too much load to the system as it exists.

It is my personal opinion based on nothing but my own experiences, that switching out the stock horns with the horns I got (no name brand dual tone from cheap ass auto parts store) that had only a marginal increase in load does not require a relay. If you replace both with high draw horns, you may well experience what I did on my Bandit.

Thus far, after a year, I have not suffered any ill effects.

 
Not to add fuel to the mechanics vs. engineer's view...but...consider the electrical circuit requirements in a vehicle from a different perspective. So far, all that has entered into the equation is the current capability of the circuit. But, that is not the only requirement when sizing the wire. In many cases the wire size will be much larger than necessary for physical strength. Because mechanics love to tug on the wires instead of always grasping the connector body the wire is frequently upsized to add strength not only in the wire itself but in the grip strength of the connector. Something like a horn feed might have 16 gauge wire to the horn connection when 22 gauge wire would carry the electrical load fine. 22 gauge is a bit tiny to go tugging on, though. So, the "oversized" 16 gauge wire is viewed as electrical overkill for the physical protection it provides. Later, when the amperage on the circuit is increased due to added load (two horns instead of one) the 16 guage wire is still plenty big enough. And the engineer that designed it is viewed as an idiot for putting too big of a wire in there in the first place. Possibly there is more to the puzzle than just electrical load. The contacts, however, might be designed for the electrical load in question so they would need to be upsized for greater current. Contacts and internal circuit connections do not get tugged on so they might be closer to the "correct" size and have less safety factor. This could go on and on.... Just keep in mind that there are a myriad of things that have to be taken into account when evaluating a particular design, not just the most obvious.

 
Sprint. Aside from this hyjack.... I am more concerned in these horn replacements with the forks hitting the horns than with the electrical issues. Blown fuses and melted wires can be replaced. Tag the horn with the fork in the wrong way and your day might turn to ****. My experience is that it is pretty difficult to get adequate fork clearance to the larger horns if they are simply tucked into the same spot. I know the Magnum Blasters I installed hit the forks at full turn and full compression without some serious trimming and relocating the mounts. I took the time to take the fork springs out so I could collapse the forks and turn them right and left and they were hard into the MagnumBlasters. So.....check your clearances carefully when you are done. I realize it is unlikely to get full compression and full turn angle at the same time but at least check the full compression because mine hit originally in that mode without even turning the forks at all before I started some serious relocating. Just because one person rides around without hitting doesn't mean that there is adequate clearance for that 99th percentile bump and turn you have yet to hit....... But that is just the engineer in me.... :) :)
I think you are right about the electrics. I contacted Fiamm and their only concern was the "possibility" of a horn switch problem. Wiring was a total non-issue. I know that is contrary to popular belief but 14 ga wire should hold 15 amps with no problem. That being said, anal retentive me, I'm still going to use 12 ga and a relay.

Now for the clearance thing. I just mounted mine. I took the stock bracket off and fabricated a longer one out of aluminum. I put a twist and a bend in it to move the horn down and back. If my forks compressed at full lock, the lower might might touch the horn's plastic mouth, but it isn't close at rest. It won't clear a fork brace, but IMO an FJR doesn't need one of those anyhow. Now, let me ask the $64,000 question, how in the hell do you fully compress the fork at full lock? If there is someone out there that has done it with the bike actually surviving, let alone crunching a horn, I know I would pay premium bucks to watch them ride.

 
Not going to debate what sort of clearance you might or might not want. That is up to you. As long as you check it and know what you have. I realize that no one is likely to ever have full steering lock and full jounce (duh....) but only by checking that and all the points in between do you really know what the clearance is so that you can be positive that nothing hits under normal suspension travel. I have looked at some horn installs that I KNOW will hit the forks when the rider hits the right bump....even with the forks straight ahead....yet the rider claimed "no problem". Yet.....

My 03 must be bent or something for the horns to be as close to the fork sliders as they are when I actually compress the forks to full travel. Big difference possibly in what people think the forks are going to do vs. what they actaully do when the front end goes to full jounce.

 
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I think you are just looking at it from a different viewpoint. For example: The aerospace guys do a pretty thorough job of predicting ALL the forces and events a new airplane will be subjected to....which is why the first 787 will take off and land uneventfully on it's first flight. It just depends on how much time and money is spent on the analysis of the subject device, how much safety factor is built into the design, how much is really known about the device so as to make an accurate a model as possible (see first item) and, maybe most importantly, how well the "engineer" can control the customer usage of the product. Airplane operation is a relatively contolled environment with fixed rules for operation and trained operators with standardized operating procedures. Car and motorcycle operation is just the opposite. You never know what the operator is going to do when the "hold my beer and watch this" syndrome takes over. Which is why engineering cars and motorcycles is a bit tricky and leaves the end result open to discussions like this.
An excellent point and example, but even in the aviation biz, unexpected mechanical failures do occur with almost frightening regularity. Again, I don't fault the engineers for not foreseeing and foretelling the future, I blame it on the absolute impossibility to do so. You cite the aerospace industry as well, and yet look at how many mishaps and near-disasters the space shuttle program had in the last few years. **** happens that's out of your control...always has, always will.

The horn circuit in question is probably designed with a significant safety factor (in terms of current capability) on the production motorcycle. Which is why many people will add horns with greater amperage draw "without a problem." But just because the circuit is operating at 9/10's of it's capability "successfully" for one person does not make it right nor mean that the engineer screwed up in the design.

Agreed again...mostly. It oughta be able to operate at 9/10ths of it's capability indefinately. It's when you get to 10/10ths or higher you expect to see a problem. And again...not blaming the engineer.

Durability and reliability start to come into play. Also that pesky operating schedule...... How long does the horn toot each event? Maybe you like to toot and others like to sit on the horn for longer periods of time? Maybe the wiring will withstand the current draw for 2 seconds but will overheat when subjected to a 5 second burn when that semi is slowly pinching you into the rail and the horn button and throttle are both pegged.


Which is why I brought up the point about evasive manuevers vs horn honking. IMO, if you're laying on the horn for long periods of time, you're just being needlessly obnoxious and deserve to have your horn switch melt into a blob.

Unless the mechanic that modifies the device tests it in the same vein it was designed in he/she has no idea how close the engineer was cutting it. That is the safety factor thing. In this simple case I would imagine that the horn might work fine with the OEM wiring and contacts for many people who seldom use it for most of the time for low mileage riders. Throw in a long toot, some dirt on the contacts, a frayed strand or two of wire at the terminal and all bets are off. That is what the safety factor was thrown in for and if you use it up with your mods (without a relay) then you (or your horn circuit) are on borrowed time.

Maybe I'm just spoiled because I work on a pretty good product. In 'Yota land, we just don't see alot of **** just fall apart. Oh, we have our problems too, but in the big scheme of things (ie; the number of miles people put on our products and what customers subject them to), I think we have a pretty acceptable number of failures. Sometimes it's an apparent design flaw, sometimes it's just wear and tear. But overall, I never cease to be amazed at how much abuse and neglect a Toyota can withstand without leaving the driver walking home. Is that over-engineering? Could be. If that's what it is, then I think everything should be that way.

I always love the arguements and viewpoints between engineers and mechanics...... Living on both sides of the matter at times really makes it interesting.
We always have similar discussions with the techs/mechanics in our test garages and dyno labs. They obviously see a lot of failed and used up parts since we are testing things to their absolute limits (and beyond) in some cases so they tend to develop an attitude that the engineers must really not know what they are doing where the engineer looks at the failed part and is happy that it failed how and where and when the model predicted so as to validate the model and the design that was done using the model.


I actually have had a fair amount of interaction with Toyota engineers (been a 'Yota mechanic for a couple decades now). I can't say I ever remember any of them being happy to know that a part failed or is failing on a regular basis.

Sprint. Aside from this hyjack.... I am more concerned in these horn replacements with the forks hitting the horns than with the electrical issues. Blown fuses and melted wires can be replaced. Tag the horn with the fork in the wrong way and your day might turn to ****. My experience is that it is pretty difficult to get adequate fork clearance to the larger horns if they are simply tucked into the same spot. I know the Magnum Blasters I installed hit the forks at full turn and full compression without some serious trimming and relocating the mounts. I took the time to take the fork springs out so I could collapse the forks and turn them right and left and they were hard into the MagnumBlasters. So.....check your clearances carefully when you are done. I realize it is unlikely to get full compression and full turn angle at the same time but at least check the full compression because mine hit originally in that mode without even turning the forks at all before I started some serious relocating. Just because one person rides around without hitting doesn't mean that there is adequate clearance for that 99th percentile bump and turn you have yet to hit....... But that is just the engineer in me.... :) :)

As a matter of fact, I mounted my Mega-blasters in the stock location and did have to do a fair amount of tweaking on the brackets to achieve clearance between the forks and the horns. I ended up with no conflict on right full lock turns, but the fork just kisses the left horn on full lock left turns. The horn and bracket assy have more than enough give though to make it a non-issue in my particular situation, but you're right, it's something that certainly needs scrutiny during the installation process.

So far, all that has entered into the equation is the current capability of the circuit. But, that is not the only requirement when sizing the wire. In many cases the wire size will be much larger than necessary for physical strength. Because mechanics love to tug on the wires instead of always grasping the connector body the wire is frequently upsized to add strength not only in the wire itself but in the grip strength of the connector. Something like a horn feed might have 16 gauge wire to the horn connection when 22 gauge wire would carry the electrical load fine. 22 gauge is a bit tiny to go tugging on, though. So, the "oversized" 16 gauge wire is viewed as electrical overkill for the physical protection it provides.

Ok, this part I'm not buying into. As a mechanic, it's my oppinion that the factory doesn't take having to work on the son-of-a-bitch into account. If they did, my job would be a shitload easier. They may over-engineer to allow for some vibration and general rocking and movement, but if they were concerned about me yanking wires out of connectors, they could sure do things alot differently.

And the engineer that designed it is viewed as an idiot for putting too big of a wire in there in the first place.

Wow, I don't know what field of engineering you're in, but if you get yelled at for over-engineering a part, I don't think I want to buy whatever it is they want you to cheapen. :blink: :blink:

If your logic is true then that means that the horn circuit on the 2000 model must have been grossly overdesigned/overcapacity if it has the capacity to add that much load with no changes. Which is the safe way out for an engineer and doesn't take nearly as much analysis. Do you know that this is the case on the FJR...??? If not, then your example means absolutely nothing. It is worse than useless to use this example, in fact, it is misleading without knowing what the capacity of the circuits were.

Easy there big fella. I'm starting to see a trend here. Apparently I somehow gave you the idea that I think engineers don't know what they're doing and are the root of all mechanical evils. It couldn't be farther from the truth. Go back and re-read what I've said, including the "tidbit, FWIW" and you'll find I'm really on the engineers side. My ONLY qualm with many engineers is that they don't want to admit that they don't have a crystal ball. The concrete physical principles used in engineering apply in a mostly perfect world, which sadly just doesn't exist. You do the best you can with what you've got. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes it's your fault because you missed something which will seem really obvious in hindsight, sometimes it's something that was relatively unforeseeable. No problem Bro. I make mistakes sometimes too. I don't like it when I do, but we're only human and we all make mistakes.

Now about that Tacoma horn thing...it might be noteworthy that in the change for '01, they also went from a mechanical relay to an IC controlled circuit. I'm not really sure how that affects the big picture, but I just thought I'd throw it in there to really get the wheels a-spinnin' in yer head. :yahoo: :yahoo:

And I still stand behind everything I've said here thus far. :rolleyes:

 
Certainly things happen to airplanes and the space shuttle that weren't predicted originally...or that people didn't believe would happen when people did predict them...i.e..both the o-rings and tile damage were known about and predicted by the engineers years earlier but other factors caused them to be overlooked. My point is that there MANY things that go right with those programs with no chance for testing ahead of time. It is not like Boeing will build a bunch of prototype 787's to figure out what the wings need to look like.

No engineer is ever happy about things failing, repeatedly or not, UNLESS they designed the test to fail the part on purpose. Then the part should fail just as predicted. That is what I was trying to convey with my example. You might have worked with Toyota engineers regarding production parts in the field. Granted, no parts should be failing then. As I tried to convey in my example, I was working with techs and mechanics during the development process, years before the stuff gets into production. They see "nothing but failed parts"...which is pretty typical during development when you are testing things to the limit, making them think that no one knew what they were doing 'since all the stuff fails." Just a mindset generated by a limited point of view.

If every engineer designed their stuff to be grossly "over engineered" then cars/motorcycles would weigh three times what they do. You don't need to be much of an engineer to make a cast iron engine block that weighs 500 pounds work well and forever. It takes much more "engineering" to make the block out of aluminum and get the weight to 125 pounds and make it handle three times the power. You only make it as strong as it needs to be. Any more is waste. Wasted fuel economy, wasted cost in manufacturing, etc. That is what engineering is all about. Making the part so that it is capable of doing what it needs to do without being excess. It isn't just about "cheapening" it up.

Yes, wiring engineers do take into account mechanics tuggning on wires to disconnect them. That does govern wire size sometimes.

There is a termendous amount of time and resources spent during the engineering phase to make sure the parts are serviceable. Proof is readily available in that your job is possible. It might not be easy always....but it is possible. If it weren't taken into account it wouldn't be possible to service many things without taking the whole vehicle apart.

 
My point is that there MANY things that go right with those programs with no chance for testing ahead of time. It is not like Boeing will build a bunch of prototype 787's to figure out what the wings need to look like.

As it should be. That's why they pay you guys the big bucks. :D :D :D

No engineer is ever happy about things failing, repeatedly or not, UNLESS they designed the test to fail the part on purpose. Then the part should fail just as predicted. That is what I was trying to convey with my example. You might have worked with Toyota engineers regarding production parts in the field. Granted, no parts should be failing then. As I tried to convey in my example, I was working with techs and mechanics during the development process, years before the stuff gets into production. They see "nothing but failed parts"...which is pretty typical during development when you are testing things to the limit, making them think that no one knew what they were doing 'since all the stuff fails." Just a mindset generated by a limited point of view.

You're correct, I was only dealing with proddy parts. The techs you were dealing with should have been aware that the failure was planned. If they weren't, you should have made them aware. If you did, then they were just dorks.

If every engineer designed their stuff to be grossly "over engineered" then cars/motorcycles would weigh three times what they do. You don't need to be much of an engineer to make a cast iron engine block that weighs 500 pounds work well and forever. It takes much more "engineering" to make the block out of aluminum and get the weight to 125 pounds and make it handle three times the power. You only make it as strong as it needs to be. Any more is waste. Wasted fuel economy, wasted cost in manufacturing, etc. That is what engineering is all about. Making the part so that it is capable of doing what it needs to do without being excess. It isn't just about "cheapening" it up.

I didn't mean anything quite that extreme, just an "ample" safety margin.

Yes, wiring engineers do take into account mechanics tuggning on wires to disconnect them. That does govern wire size sometimes.

I suppose that would make sense. Generally, there's no other way to get a hold of the male end of the connector without pulling the wires. The smart techs depress the locking tab fully BEFORE tugging on the wires. ;) We do have a few clever connectors that use a lever arm which not only locks the connector, but draws it into and pushes it out of its' mate. There usually aren't more than one or two of these on a vehicle, but I'm sure they're alot more costly to produce. They're mostly used on ABS ECUs, but occassionally you'll find one elsewhere on the car.

There is a termendous amount of time and resources spent during the engineering phase to make sure the parts are serviceable. Proof is readily available in that your job is possible. It might not be easy always....but it is possible. If it weren't taken into account it wouldn't be possible to service many things without taking the whole vehicle apart.

I'll still disagree with that point. The car had to be "assembled", therefore it can be "disassembled". The amount of disassembly involved in some of our vehicles to do a scheduled valve clearance check is unbelievable. I just did a valve clearance check on my FJR last weekend. It wasn't much fun, but it was better than a 3.0 liter Avalon or Sienna any day of the week. Front-wheel-drive based all-wheel-drive vehicles are especially difficult to work on. If there's any problem with the engine bottom end, transaxle, or transfer case (including simple oil seals), the entire drivetrain has to come out, and the entire front suspension and subframe have to come out first. None of those components can be removed from the vehicle individually and even after the entire drivetrain is on the floor, separating the three major components is like a chinese puzzle. So when you say "serviceable"...yeah, they built it, we can un-build it. But I think calling it "serviceable" is being pretty generous. For DECADES, Toyota has located their oil filters such that they generally make a huge mess in the engine bay when changing them, which is difficult to clean thoroughly even with aerosol degreasers. This resulted in LOTS of customers coming back after having their oil changed and complaining of drips on the garage floor, so of course they wanted the car rechecked for leaks. Generally, there was no leak, and the drips were just residual oil that didn't get cleaned out after changing the filter. Somewhere around '98 they actually STARTED to address this situation. As old engines get phased out, their successors are coming with more "oil change friendly" filter locations. And when I say "oil change friendly", I mean they don't make so much mess, not that they're easier to get to. Sorry, but you'll never make me believe that serviceablity is anywhere on the auto engineer's agenda. If it is, it's at the bottom of the list. That's why they pay ME the big bucks! ;) ;) ;)

 
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Glad I didn't get flamed, but a juicy dialogue got started anyway...

No flaming from me Bro. I would ask that you elaborate a little on the "modeling" thing though. I find alot of failures (electrical or mechanical) due to environmental issues. Like water intrusion from the snow that people track into the car on their shoes, or the yay-hoo that goes "Yeeee-haaaawwww...I bet I kin git 'cross that crick faster than all y'all in mah 4wd truck".
Modeling is simply the virtual version of a system. For example, and to keep it relevent to this discussion, an engine block can be modeled by being designed in a CAD environment (SolidWorks, Pro/E, CATIA, etc.). The primary part would include determining how it is going to physically interface with its neighboring parts. Part of it is determing how it will be built (unfortunately, computers can very easily create parts that cannot actually be manufactured). It can then be tested (mathematically) to simluate what will happen to it in operation (heat transfer and dynamic stresses using Finite Element Analysis, vibration characteristics, etc.). The best modeling includes wide spectrum application of how it will be used - in this case, the engineering team that models (or at least tests, because this would be difficult to do) what happens when their engine block is suddenly cooled (as when driven through the aforementioned crick). Basically, it is making and testing the part in an imaginary way (by hand or by computer assistance) before actually doing it. A system could be created by actually doing it, rather than modeling it. But the number of iterations it takes to get it right would be so costly and time consuming it is not financially feasible to do this. Also, some systems are so complex a successful solution would never be reached without digging in and doing the math.

Long winded, and I may or may not have had a few too many beers tonight, but hopefully it makes some sense.

-BD

 
Gotta go with Jestal on this one. Margins are at issue for the folks who "over engineer" farkles. I noticed this in spades when I first started getting tips from endurance riders. Their reasoning is sound and one that I readily adopted. If you toodle around in town or on pleasure cruises to nearby states, an interruption to your plans (due to a farkle design hovering on the cusp of acceptability) is often an acceptable risk. When you're a continent away from home, it's 3am, your 120 miles from the nearest town (which buttons up tight at 6pm) and tomorrow is Sunday, and its raining -- a failure of a mod that could have been prevented by just a little advanced thought and minor cost differences (1 relay and some 12ga wire in this example), such interruptions can be more than just a minor inconvenience.

 
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There is a termendous amount of time and resources spent during the engineering phase to make sure the parts are serviceable. Proof is readily available in that your job is possible. It might not be easy always....but it is possible. If it weren't taken into account it wouldn't be possible to service many things without taking the whole vehicle apart.

I'll still disagree with that point. The car had to be "assembled", therefore it can be "disassembled". The amount of disassembly involved in some of our vehicles to do a scheduled valve clearance check is unbelievable. I just did a valve clearance check on my FJR last weekend. It wasn't much fun, but it was better than a 3.0 liter Avalon or Sienna any day of the week. Front-wheel-drive based all-wheel-drive vehicles are especially difficult to work on. If there's any problem with the engine bottom end, transaxle, or transfer case (including simple oil seals), the entire drivetrain has to come out, and the entire front suspension and subframe have to come out first. None of those components can be removed from the vehicle individually and even after the entire drivetrain is on the floor, separating the three major components is like a chinese puzzle. So when you say "serviceable"...yeah, they built it, we can un-build it. But I think calling it "serviceable" is being pretty generous. For DECADES, Toyota has located their oil filters such that they generally make a huge mess in the engine bay when changing them, which is difficult to clean thoroughly even with aerosol degreasers. This resulted in LOTS of customers coming back after having their oil changed and complaining of drips on the garage floor, so of course they wanted the car rechecked for leaks. Generally, there was no leak, and the drips were just residual oil that didn't get cleaned out after changing the filter. Somewhere around '98 they actually STARTED to address this situation. As old engines get phased out, their successors are coming with more "oil change friendly" filter locations. And when I say "oil change friendly", I mean they don't make so much mess, not that they're easier to get to. Sorry, but you'll never make me believe that serviceablity is anywhere on the auto engineer's agenda. If it is, it's at the bottom of the list. That's why they pay ME the big bucks! ;) ;) ;)


You are stealing my normal line. When I hear a mechanic bitching about how hard it is to service one of our vehicles I just remind him that if we made it too easy then ANYONE could do it and there would be no need for trained, talented "mechanics"....so he should be thanking "me" for making it hard to service as it keeps food on his table... :) :)

You are right, though, that the car has to be built first.... People don't realize that 99.99% (or better) of the vehicles on the road never need any sort of major work done to them so much of the "service" work of yesteryear just never needs to be done. Accessibility of normal maintenance items is obviously important but what is considered "acceptable" for service has changed considerably given the chaning service requirements.

All of the OEM's are obviously concerned with efficiency assembling the vehicle and virtually all vehicles are built with the engine/trans/powertrain stuffed into the car from below so servicing them involves dropping the engine/trans/powertrain out the bottom rather than the top. Easy with a hoist but it certainly makes major service much more difficult at home.

 
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If every engineer designed their stuff to be grossly "over engineered" then cars/motorcycles would weigh three times what they do. You don't need to be much of an engineer to make a cast iron engine block that weighs 500 pounds work well and forever. It takes much more "engineering" to make the block out of aluminum and get the weight to 125 pounds and make it handle three times the power. You only make it as strong as it needs to be. Any more is waste. Wasted fuel economy, wasted cost in manufacturing, etc. That is what engineering is all about. Making the part so that it is capable of doing what it needs to do without being excess. It isn't just about "cheapening" it up.

Jestal RULES!

 
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