Lowering the FJR

[Jabber]

I just took delivery of my 07 FJR1300A and want to install a lowering kit. I have a set of lowering links that I purchased from a vendor in Canada and have seen them in action on a friend's FJR. My question involves bike geometry or rake. I want to lower the rear suspension members about 11/2 inches, but am not able to lower (or raise) the front tubes due to a space conflict with the handlebars. With risers or set-backs I can gain access to lower the front a tad, but at this point I have not found a source of the risers. My question is: How seriously (or if at all), will only lowering the rear suspension affect the bike's handling and safety? If you like you can answer me direct at [email protected] or via this Forum. Thanks, Jabber

 

[FJRocket]

I just took delivery of my 07 FJR1300A and want to install a lowering kit. I have a set of lowering links that I purchased from a vendor in Canada and have seen them in action on a friend's FJR. My question involves bike geometry or rake. I want to lower the rear suspension members about 11/2 inches, but am not able to lower (or raise) the front tubes due to a space conflict with the handlebars. With risers or set-backs I can gain access to lower the front a tad, but at this point I have not found a source of the risers. My question is: How seriously (or if at all), will only lowering the rear suspension affect the bike's handling and safety? If you like you can answer me direct at [email protected] or via this Forum. Thanks, Jabber

I think if you are looking for 1.5 inches, you'd better plan on grinding the stop on your sidestand so that the bike won't topple over due to it's tendency to be too upright out of the box.

I think getting a lower saddle, like the Corbin, would be a better solution than dropping the rear end that much.

Heli makes a replacement triple clamp and risers to go on it. Use the search button.

With the rear end 1.5 inches low, you are going to enter curve pretty noise high. I think that would be a VERY significant geometry differential. May not be dangerous, but certainly going to screw up the handling. Hope you got some skills to compensate.

You might have to consider having someone rework your forks to shorten the internals if you are really going to lower the *** end that much.

Good luck. Let us know how it comes out. Maybe shoot some snaps of the process and share it with the rest of us.

 

[Bounce]

There's a universal solution out there so you don't have to keep modifying your bike and losing suspension travel.

Check it out here

 

[MotorSWATCop]

I had my wife's ST1300 lowered. Took it to Traxxion in Woodstock, GA. They installed a custom length Penske shock and lowered the fork tubes in the triple clamp. I made a huge difference for her. Watch out on the Corbin seat. Although it does lower the seaat height; on the ST1300, it uses a wider pan which speads your legs. This negated the intended benefit substantially.

 

[818Guy]

Watch out on the Corbin seat. Although it does lower the seaat height; on the ST1300, it uses a wider pan which speads your legs. This negated the intended benefit substantially.

I have the Corbin on my 2006 AE and would agree 100% with this - overall stance has not changed with the seat. It is, though, IMO more comfortable than the stock seat.

BTW, bounce... :thumbsdownsmileyanim: you crossed the line with that post.

 

[05fjrman]

There's a universal solution out there so you don't have to keep modifying your bike and losing suspension travel.
Check it out here

can they lengthen all 3 legs, or just 2?

 

[FJRocket]

Watch out on the Corbin seat. Although it does lower the seaat height; on the ST1300, it uses a wider pan which speads your legs. This negated the intended benefit substantially.

I have the Corbin on my 2006 AE and would agree 100% with this - overall stance has not changed with the seat. It is, though, IMO more comfortable than the stock seat.

I disagree with both of you. I get a better foot plant with the Corbin. Guess it depends on each hand made pan, and the shape of your thighs and whatnot. Also, I think the Corbin is no where NEAR comfortable as the stock seat. They both suck... comparted to say a Russell. But I'll keep the Corbin. I think it's just about broken in.

 

[dobias]

Jabber,

With the lowering links you'll have great difficulty using the center stand unless it's shortened. One alternative is to use a 2x6x12" under the rear wheel. It helps to cut the leading edge of the board at 45 degrees for a ramping effect. Backing a fully loaded bike up onto the board may take practice.

dobias <_<

 

[Jabber]

Thanks for the input guys. As to the suggestion from Bounce, I tried that but only managed to lengthen the middle one. I haven't been able to raise the fork tubes as yet because I haven't got riser/set back blocks, hopefully I can find some soon. I have removed the centerstand and will have a machine shop alter this to compensate for the lower fame, thereby negating the need for a 2X6 as suggested by one of you. I know about grinding the side stand stop but just may cut if off and weld a larger foot pad.....I am an ex-machinist and have the tools to do this job. As reported on this Forum, an aftermarket seat will not lower the rider very much at all and usually they negate the matter by making the seat wider, thus no relief at all on the height issue. I do have the lowering links installed but not as yet adjusted to lower the bike. This kit is essentially an adjustable dog-bone unit. Any more ideas? Jabber

 

[Bounce]

Watch out on the Corbin seat. Although it does lower the seaat height; on the ST1300, it uses a wider pan which speads your legs. This negated the intended benefit substantially.

I have the Corbin on my 2006 AE and would agree 100% with this - overall stance has not changed with the seat. It is, though, IMO more comfortable than the stock seat.

BTW, bounce... :thumbsdownsmileyanim: you crossed the line with that post.

no way. i've been posting that link to that question for years. if you wanna see someone cross some self-defined line, then hang around here for a while. you'll either grow thick skin or you'll need to plan on getting your panties in a bunch at least occasionally. :rofl:

can they lengthen all 3 legs, or just 2?

that's the spirit!

NO!

 

[~ICE!]

Just curious. From where did you purchase the lowering links? I need to lower a bit as well.....

~ICE!

 

[Rudyt]

Thanks for the input guys. As to the suggestion from Bounce, I tried that but only managed to lengthen the middle one. I haven't been able to raise the fork tubes as yet because I haven't got riser/set back blocks, hopefully I can find some soon. I have removed the centerstand and will have a machine shop alter this to compensate for the lower fame, thereby negating the need for a 2X6 as suggested by one of you. I know about grinding the side stand stop but just may cut if off and weld a larger foot pad.....I am an ex-machinist and have the tools to do this job. As reported on this Forum, an aftermarket seat will not lower the rider very much at all and usually they negate the matter by making the seat wider, thus no relief at all on the height issue. I do have the lowering links installed but not as yet adjusted to lower the bike. This kit is essentially an adjustable dog-bone unit. Any more ideas? Jabber

I have the Kuoba links on my 06. 7/8 inch drop. I don't know if I would go lower than 1 inch. While riding in the hill country "trying" to keep up with Inlaw1 the rear tire rubbed the bottom of the rear fender. This was on the hard setting during faster sweepers, I am 150 lbs. You will loose some lean angle but your riding style will dictate whether it affects you or not. You will have problems putting the bike on the center stand without a 2x4 under the rear. I was amazed at how much harder it is. I was able to lower the front forks down about 1/2 inch without risers and I am still able to adjust the rebound settings. In all it works for me and I can touch the ground better. Maybe now, I will not have to operationally check the frame sliders I put on the bike incase I drop the thing. :blink:

 

[chornbe]

I just took delivery of my 07 FJR1300A and want to install a lowering kit. I have a set of lowering links that I purchased from a vendor in Canada and have seen them in action on a friend's FJR. My question involves bike geometry or rake. I want to lower the rear suspension members about 11/2 inches, but am not able to lower (or raise) the front tubes due to a space conflict with the handlebars. With risers or set-backs I can gain access to lower the front a tad, but at this point I have not found a source of the risers. My question is: How seriously (or if at all), will only lowering the rear suspension affect the bike's handling and safety? If you like you can answer me direct at [email protected] or via this Forum. Thanks, Jabber

I think if you are looking for 1.5 inches, you'd better plan on grinding the stop on your sidestand so that the bike won't topple over due to it's tendency to be too upright out of the box.

I think getting a lower saddle, like the Corbin, would be a better solution than dropping the rear end that much.

Heli makes a replacement triple clamp and risers to go on it. Use the search button.

With the rear end 1.5 inches low, you are going to enter curve pretty noise high. I think that would be a VERY significant geometry differential. May not be dangerous, but certainly going to screw up the handling. Hope you got some skills to compensate.

You might have to consider having someone rework your forks to shorten the internals if you are really going to lower the *** end that much.

Good luck. Let us know how it comes out. Maybe shoot some snaps of the process and share it with the rest of us.

You're very kind.

It's a stupid idea to change one end by that much and not the other. You're going to run right off the road because the bike going ot turn in like a chopper. Don't do this. If you need to lower the bike *that* much, you bought the wrong bike.

$.02

 

[Last Chance]

I just took delivery of my 07 FJR1300A and want to install a lowering kit. I have a set of lowering links that I purchased from a vendor in Canada and have seen them in action on a friend's FJR. My question involves bike geometry or rake. I want to lower the rear suspension members about 11/2 inches, but am not able to lower (or raise) the front tubes due to a space conflict with the handlebars. With risers or set-backs I can gain access to lower the front a tad, but at this point I have not found a source of the risers. My question is: How seriously (or if at all), will only lowering the rear suspension affect the bike's handling and safety? If you like you can answer me direct at [email protected] or via this Forum. Thanks, Jabber

I think if you are looking for 1.5 inches, you'd better plan on grinding the stop on your sidestand so that the bike won't topple over due to it's tendency to be too upright out of the box.

I think getting a lower saddle, like the Corbin, would be a better solution than dropping the rear end that much.

Heli makes a replacement triple clamp and risers to go on it. Use the search button.

With the rear end 1.5 inches low, you are going to enter curve pretty noise high. I think that would be a VERY significant geometry differential. May not be dangerous, but certainly going to screw up the handling. Hope you got some skills to compensate.

You might have to consider having someone rework your forks to shorten the internals if you are really going to lower the *** end that much.

Good luck. Let us know how it comes out. Maybe shoot some snaps of the process and share it with the rest of us.

You're very kind.

It's a stupid idea to change one end by that much and not the other. You're going to run right off the road because the bike going ot turn in like a chopper. Don't do this. If you need to lower the bike *that* much, you bought the wrong bike.

$.02

You might learn a little from that "too kind" person. Perhaps he's not into stoppies and wheelies and draggin the hardware like you.

LC

You

 

[Mike-H]

Watch out on the Corbin seat. Although it does lower the seaat height; on the ST1300, it uses a wider pan which speads your legs. This negated the intended benefit substantially.

I have the Corbin on my 2006 AE and would agree 100% with this - overall stance has not changed with the seat. It is, though, IMO more comfortable than the stock seat.

BTW, bounce... :thumbsdownsmileyanim: you crossed the line with that post.

Someone off their meds?....

 

[vasteve]

I work in a machine shop and cut out a new set of dog bones 3/8" longer. It lower my bike a little over an inch. I cut 3/4" out of the kickstand and welded it back. I haven't lower the front yet. I didn't notice anything major in the handling, and I like having my feet on the ground.

 

[dobias]

Gentlemen;

Just a reminder to anyone lowering the front by modifying the forks or raising the forks through the tripletree:

Check the clearance of the brake line connector block. Hitting a chuckhole, while having the brakes on full, the block can hit the wheel & have disastrous effects. The fork will be locked up & the front brakes could fail because of damage to the block.

dobias :glare:

 

[FJRScorpion]

I'd suggest that you try lowering the saddle with the existing pans before doing anything drastic. I recently had my seat re-upholstered and sculpted. I was please with the lowered height and will not need to consider the links as I had previously planned. I was told that this would be the case by the re-upholsterer, since I had asked specifically for this. I weigh 180lbs so that may be a factor for you though.

 

[Last Chance]

I'd suggest that you try lowering the saddle with the existing pans before doing anything drastic. I recently had my seat re-upholstered and sculpted. I was please with the lowered height and will not need to consider the links as I had previously planned. I was told that this would be the case by the re-upholsterer, since I had asked specifically for this. I weigh 180lbs so that may be a factor for you though.

This thread is worthless without pickys.

LC