FatNakedGuy
Well-known member
anyone got pics on how to do this? (can't find my manual at the moment)
thank you!
thank you!
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lubing the throttle cable
- Thread starter FatNakedGuy
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bergs
If this world were mine...
There's a really cool toy for that. Do an interwebs search for "Cable Life".
FatNakedGuy
Well-known member
After you mentioned that I recalled purchasing that exact thing. Never used it so was able to find it.
Now i've got the throttle off and believe I am getting the stuff down both cables..
A new question..
the white plastic sleeve under the grip... it's kinda rough turning. Is there something I can shoot in there to make it smooth?
Thank you!
Now i've got the throttle off and believe I am getting the stuff down both cables..
A new question..
the white plastic sleeve under the grip... it's kinda rough turning. Is there something I can shoot in there to make it smooth?
Thank you!
bergs
If this world were mine...
Personally, I would remove the tube and clean off any and all contaminates from the bar as well as the plastic piece. Run it dry as in "no lubricants at all".
Thing is, you can lube it and it will be smooth but over time it'll get buggered all over again. I run all my bikes' throttle grips completely dry....race, street..........hell, even the pit bike!
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dcarver
Well-known member
Bergs, just wondering'.. ever tried dry graphite? I travel 6+ miles on dusty dirt road, can't use regular wet lube.. the dry graphite works well for me, was wondering about your experiences or thoughts?
PA1195
Well-known member
Someday when you have the tank lifted up to do the TB synch, open up the throttle twist grip housing and run some light spray oil with a pin-point nozzle down the throttle cables - soon it'll drip out on top of the engine and you'll know your done. For the twist grip itself, try first removing the grip portion from the handlebar. Then take some oiled #320 grit emery cloth (best - 6x6" piece) or even sandpaper and wrap it around the bar. Twist the paper around the bar several times to remove the machining grooves and smooth the metal until it shines. Clean off all the residue and reassemble. You'll find the smoother metal to nylon surface doesn't really need lube which can attract dirt over time. The rough metal can wear at the nylon and may eventually loosen the grip clearance. My fix on many bikes for a rough throttle.
Gary in Fairbanks
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UselessPickles
Making Grand Canyon replicas from air boxes...
bergs
If this world were mine...
No sir, never tried graphite.
Assuming you're referring to the throttle tube/ handle bar, I figure graphite would yeild good results but I'm at the point where I've become very comfortable just keeping the two surfaces clean and free of any additives of any kind. As PA1195 stated, "You'll find the smoother metal to nylon surface doesn't really need lube which can attract dirt over time" and I've found this to be the best solution for me as well.
I am, however, open to hearing more input and knowledge from your experiences.
PA1195
Well-known member
Un huh. Hey, were talking twisting not up and down motion here lad. Butt (pun intended), new methods may require new products. HI!
Gary in Fairbanks
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Geezer
Parsimonious Curmudgeon
I don't have the requested pictures, but it is pretty simple once you open the throttle housing. You simply take a very narrow screwdriver or other pointy rod and gently rest the pointy end on the cable where it enters the sheath. Then you let a few drops of oil run down the rod into the cable sheath. You do the same for the return cable. Keep the slack to a minimum on the cables so they don't kink and they will last a long time.
FatNakedGuy
Well-known member
I was way overthinking this.. decided to just jump in and it turned out to be a piece of cake. I only had a couple of extra pieces when I got finished but figured out where one of them went anyway. The other is in the tool box for now.
Cleaning out the gunk between the grip and bar REALLY smoothed things out (thank you!).
Cleaning out the gunk between the grip and bar REALLY smoothed things out (thank you!).
Here's an alternative I learned about back in my pedal biking days (If you've seen my gut lately, you'd know that was a few years back) that I have also employed on motorcycles: Boeshield T9
You can either buy the aerosol can and use it with those cable luber tools, or buy the drip bottle with the extension straw and just run it down the cable from the top. It goes on as a thin liquid and then dries to a dry wax consistency. It works great on cables and lots of other stuff.
You can either buy the aerosol can and use it with those cable luber tools, or buy the drip bottle with the extension straw and just run it down the cable from the top. It goes on as a thin liquid and then dries to a dry wax consistency. It works great on cables and lots of other stuff.
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Capt. Bob
Bilge pump. A novel idea.
+1 on T-9
It is the best performing anti-corrosion agent I've ever used on my boat.
13 years running on the console gauge wiring and not a hint of corrosion.
PA1195
Well-known member
Hi Fred and all. I'm not a technical expert by any means regarding preferred dielectric compounds to be used with low voltage electrical contacts, but I have dealt with corrosion in marine environment wiring and aircraft systems as an owner. I've used both the Dow DC-4 and similar silicone grease compounds to success in outdoor electrical connections, so I know how they perform in that capacity.
I've also used both the Boeshield T-9 and LPS-3 in aircraft and marine equipment. After application, the solvents evaporate leaving a waxy/oily film that is supposed to exclude moisture and prevent corrosion, as in internal wing and float assemblies. The concern I'd have with the waxy versus the silicone stuff is ensuring a good electrical contact if the connections were made after the wax forms. Covering an existing connection would probably be ok. Trying to ensure a good contact on a wax covered component may present a problem. The wax (or silicone grease) has to be completely displaced for an good low resistance electrical contact to be made is my understanding.
The silicone grease is soft enough to allow displacement and good electrical contact if the point connectors are assembled after it's application. Some manufacturers of amateur radio equipment specify its use on connections exposed to weather before assembly to prevent subsequent corrosion, while allowing good electrical contact at very low voltage potential (receiving antennas for example).
Maybe flooding the intact ground connectors would work, but I think I'd avoid reassembly after coating unless a proven silicone grease were used. Just some thoughts.
Gary in Fairbanks
Yeah, that's what I was thinking of when I made that comment. Just shooting them with the Boeshield in-situ, now and then, rather than having to fully disassemble everything.
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PA1195
Well-known member
Good idea Fred. I went to the trouble to disassemble them (five I think) and lube, but if the contacts are still good shooting some T-9, LPS-3, or similar in from the wire ends and over the shorting cap should seal them from the weather just as well. Liquid tape may also seal them. Fort some weird reason Yamaha decided to leave them exposed to the elements
I hope to run amperage demand and component ID on the one that cooks in the left front sometime this this week.
Back to lubing.
Gary in Fairbanks
RadioHowie
I Miss Beemerdons!
Mizz Bustanut
Well-known member
Good one . . . . . :laughingsmiley:Looking at your avatar, I'd say it didn't do **** for your bilge pump wiring.
